Ticonderoga

iTrader: (2)

My S5 N/A refuses to start this morning. When I tried starting, I only heard a ticking sound and the warning lights flashed, while the voltage gauge drops to zero. If I just turn the key to "on", lights stays on fine, but voltage is still low--~10V. Yet when I use a voltmeter to measure voltage directly over the battery, it says 12.35 volts.

Is it my battery? As I just bought this FC, I was testing the CD player for a few minutes last night to see if it is working or not, without turning the engine on. Could this have drained the battery if the battery is old?

Or could wires have shorted? Is there a fuse for start up?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It may be a bad battery if you were running electrical devices for hours without the engine running.

However, check the battery connections. It sounds like one of them is loose.

Ticonderoga

iTrader: (2)

I ran for no more than 10 minutes, precisely because I did not want to drain the battery.

The battery and the connectors look old, probably due to negligence of previous owners. They are fastened though. I also checked the connectivity of ground and it is good.

I just measured the voltage of the battery again, right after trying to start the car. The voltage indeed dropped to 10.8V, but after a short while it went back up to 12.3V.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

10V should still start the car.

Are you absolutely sure the connections are in good shape? They can look perfect, but be internally corroded.

Ticonderoga

iTrader: (2)

The connectors are in bad shape, but I am sure they conduct.

I think the ticking sound I am hearing is from the starter. Maybe the starter has gone back? Though I have no idea how it could went bad just overnight.

gkarmadi

iTrader: (20)

Check ur batt, I think the starter didn't get enouhg power to start the car.

Don49

iTrader: (3)

If your voltage is dropping to zero when you try to start, you have a bad connection. Clean the battery terminals and the cables!

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

I had to replace my battery back in the spring. Took the car to Advance Auto and had them test it. Full 12 volts but no Amps. So even though your batt may show good volts, if it has no (or very low) Amps, its still flat and has to be replaced.

Ticonderoga

iTrader: (2)

Okay I just tried starting the car with a voltmeter connected to the battery directly.

Before start up battery voltage is 11.8V.

When I tried starting the car battery voltage drops to 4.6V.

So I guess the battery needs a charge? And since I wasn't really draining it to start with, I might need a new battery?

Evil Aviator

Auto parts chains such as Advanced Auto Parts will test your battery for free.

If you need new terminals, the quick-disconnect type are nice if you work on your car a lot. I usually at least put one on the negative terminal.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...PartType=C0005
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...PartType=C0005

Riki

My NA also made the clicking noise and didnt start at all but it was my starter that went out

calpatriot

Been there done that...

Low voltage during start attempts may not be due to a poor connection. The way to tell is to check the batt voltage at the battery terminals during the start attempt. If it is nearly the same as the system voltage during the start attempt, then it is likely not a bad connection (the system voltage would be lower than the batt voltage).

Some possibilities:
1. Low battery charge
2. Bad battery
3. Shorted starter
4. Seized engine (ask me how I know this)

I would check 1 & 2 by pulling the battery and taking it in to be checked and charged

3 can be checked by pulling the starter and checking it on the bench. Many auto parts shops will check it for you for free, over the counter.

4 if you get down to this it may not be as bad as it sounds. Sometimes this is caused by catastrophic internal failure, and sometimes by the buildup of deposits. In the latter case, a knowlegable RX7 mechanic can free it up using penetrating oil, time, and then turning the engine manually with a breaker bar.

The click you hear is probably the starter gear engaging the flywheel, but the starter does not have the torque to turn the flywheel. That can be due to any of the above causes.

Pull the battery and have it checked and charged.

DC 91 fc3s

iTrader: (11)

i just had the same problem LAST NIGHT!! turns out the old stock terminals need to be changed... so i just cut the stock (-) and put on a brand new one and presto!!! it started... my (+) was okay

npena80

my cables were corroded when i had a similar problem... i replaced them and have had no more trouble.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

How about something as simple as cleaning the battery posts and clamps?

calpatriot

Reading your post again... the system voltage 2.35 volts lower than that at the battery is interesting. If both readings are taken using the same voltmeter, and both in the same operating condition, this points to a bad connection.

If you are measuring the battery voltage on a meter and the system voltage using the meter in the car, it may or may not mean much.

Assuming that 2.35 volt loss is valid (same meter, same operating condition) the first thing to do would be to remove and clean the clamps on the battery posts, reinstall, and check again.

Ultimately there has to be somewhere in the system where you are dropping the 2.35 volts. If you find that location, you can repair that connection and try again.

Ticonderoga

iTrader: (2)

I borrowed a jumpstart from a friend and voila my FC is running again. So while I still need to replace my battery and clamps, at least I know it is not something more problematic.

VAbeachFC

had this issue before alt went out after a good 22 yr run

DaBrkddy

If the battery has less than 12.6 volts, it is either in need of a charge or a replacement... You should invest in a good quality battery, new terminal connectors, and a post cleaning tool. If you don't have the money for all that, have the battery charged at least.