Car won't start, leaking injectors? Solutions?
06-25-08, 01:26 PM
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Car won't start, leaking injectors? Solutions?
Noob alert! I just got my first RX a couple of weeks ago.
I've got an '87 N/A. As long as I start the car every day or two, it fires right up, but if I let it sit 3+ days, it won't start. I have to pull the injector fuse and crank crank crank, put it back in, and most times it fires right up.
Right now I haven't been able to get it going for almost a week. I keep having to pull the battery, take it upstairs, and put it on the charger. Last night I cranked it for at least 5 minutes (not constantly) and when I put the fuse in, it sounded like it was going to start, but then just bogged down and continued to crank over. I spent 25 minutes with it before giving up because the battery was dying.
The previous owner told me this was caused by the leaking injectors, but my problem seems to occur opposite of everyone else's, ie runs fine when hot but not after sitting a few days. I plan on getting the injectors rebuilt as soon as I can get some time to pull everything apart and send them in. Until then, is there anything I can do to ease my frustration and the load on my car battery?
I'm going to replace the plugs this weekend, but I have a strong feeling that this isn't the long-term solution. I need a stopgap measure until I can take the time to pull everything apart and send those injectors in.
I've got an '87 N/A. As long as I start the car every day or two, it fires right up, but if I let it sit 3+ days, it won't start. I have to pull the injector fuse and crank crank crank, put it back in, and most times it fires right up.
Right now I haven't been able to get it going for almost a week. I keep having to pull the battery, take it upstairs, and put it on the charger. Last night I cranked it for at least 5 minutes (not constantly) and when I put the fuse in, it sounded like it was going to start, but then just bogged down and continued to crank over. I spent 25 minutes with it before giving up because the battery was dying.
The previous owner told me this was caused by the leaking injectors, but my problem seems to occur opposite of everyone else's, ie runs fine when hot but not after sitting a few days. I plan on getting the injectors rebuilt as soon as I can get some time to pull everything apart and send them in. Until then, is there anything I can do to ease my frustration and the load on my car battery?
I'm going to replace the plugs this weekend, but I have a strong feeling that this isn't the long-term solution. I need a stopgap measure until I can take the time to pull everything apart and send those injectors in.
06-25-08, 01:35 PM
#2
It definitely sounds like leaky injectors. They're leaking into the engine and slowly filling it up.
You might want to buy some used injectors from the for sale section or from a junkyard and send them in to be cleaned, and then when you get them back just swap them.
You might want to buy some used injectors from the for sale section or from a junkyard and send them in to be cleaned, and then when you get them back just swap them.
06-26-08, 02:09 PM
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Thanks for the confirmation.
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to ease my suffering? I'm not sure when I'm going to have the time to tear into the thing. If I unplug the fuel pump when I'm going to park it more than a day or two and let the fuel pressure run out, will that help me at all or just make things worse?
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to ease my suffering? I'm not sure when I'm going to have the time to tear into the thing. If I unplug the fuel pump when I'm going to park it more than a day or two and let the fuel pressure run out, will that help me at all or just make things worse?
06-26-08, 05:21 PM
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Make a fuel cut switch. Do a ADVANCED SEARCH for NZCONVERTIBLE combined with Fuel Cut Switch. You should find a thread describing how to.
Once installed, you use it as follows: After driving the car and prior to shutting the engine off, you rev the engine to say 3000 rpm, then put your new switch to OFF and AT THE SAME MOMENT, floor the throttle. The engine will die and the fuel rail will have no pressure in it if you do as described.
THEN you turn the key to OFF and extract the key.
Once installed, you use it as follows: After driving the car and prior to shutting the engine off, you rev the engine to say 3000 rpm, then put your new switch to OFF and AT THE SAME MOMENT, floor the throttle. The engine will die and the fuel rail will have no pressure in it if you do as described.
THEN you turn the key to OFF and extract the key.
06-26-08, 08:21 PM
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Make a fuel cut switch. Do a ADVANCED SEARCH for NZCONVERTIBLE combined with Fuel Cut Switch. You should find a thread describing how to.
Once installed, you use it as follows: After driving the car and prior to shutting the engine off, you rev the engine to say 3000 rpm, then put your new switch to OFF and AT THE SAME MOMENT, floor the throttle. The engine will die and the fuel rail will have no pressure in it if you do as described.
THEN you turn the key to OFF and extract the key.
Once installed, you use it as follows: After driving the car and prior to shutting the engine off, you rev the engine to say 3000 rpm, then put your new switch to OFF and AT THE SAME MOMENT, floor the throttle. The engine will die and the fuel rail will have no pressure in it if you do as described.
THEN you turn the key to OFF and extract the key.
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