Car won't start/idle
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Car won't start/idle
The search engine seems broke... so I'm posting this here.
I replaced the starter thinking it was the reason my car wouldn't start, come to find out a few minuts ago it was a loose wire.
Anyhow, the starter is crankin' away and there is an exhaust "note" but it won't start up. Tried the flood trick multiple times to no avail. So we push started the car and it starts/runs fine but now it won't hold an idle.
It idled perfectly before.
So in a nutshell, engine won't start via starter and it won't idle. Any ideas??
It's the 88 TII in my signature.
I replaced the starter thinking it was the reason my car wouldn't start, come to find out a few minuts ago it was a loose wire.
Anyhow, the starter is crankin' away and there is an exhaust "note" but it won't start up. Tried the flood trick multiple times to no avail. So we push started the car and it starts/runs fine but now it won't hold an idle.
It idled perfectly before.
So in a nutshell, engine won't start via starter and it won't idle. Any ideas??
It's the 88 TII in my signature.
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From: Coldspring TX
You know the routine- check all fuses, including engine compartment, check over everything you've done to the car in the past week, visually look at all exposed electrical plugs, vac lines, etc...
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Hey I have the same problem, the car won't start because its flooding. When I unflood it it wont hold idle 
its a mystery problem I am starting to think the motor is shot as I have covered everything else. If you find out what it is please post here or PM me. I will do the same if I find anything out.
its a mystery problem I am starting to think the motor is shot as I have covered everything else. If you find out what it is please post here or PM me. I will do the same if I find anything out.
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Don't have a tester handy but I will go buy one now. Which is prefered? Threaded or not?
Also, I've read that a compression test while the motor is cold won't yield accurate reading, although it will give a general idea where I'm standing I suppose.
Also, I've read that a compression test while the motor is cold won't yield accurate reading, although it will give a general idea where I'm standing I suppose.
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by Zeta-Gouki
Don't have a tester handy but I will go buy one now. Which is prefered? Threaded or not?
Also, I've read that a compression test while the motor is cold won't yield accurate reading, although it will give a general idea where I'm standing I suppose.
Don't have a tester handy but I will go buy one now. Which is prefered? Threaded or not?
Also, I've read that a compression test while the motor is cold won't yield accurate reading, although it will give a general idea where I'm standing I suppose.
When it is cranking now, it does sound normal, right? It is not sounding like faster than normal?
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Nope, sound normal. I pulled the trailing plugs one at a time to listen for the "psst" sound and they sound gooded, no pauses or variation in the sound.
I just got back from buying a compression tester, I have to remove that schnader valve or whatever so the reading will pulse correct?
I just got back from buying a compression tester, I have to remove that schnader valve or whatever so the reading will pulse correct?
Does anyone think a bad Water Thermo Sensor could be causing these type of problems...? I replaced everything except that sensor and I just ordered one today. I am thinking if this sensor goes bad it may flood the engine out, and cause it to load up once started and that would prevent it from idling. I had a LT1 Z28 once that had that sensor go bad and it would start but it would load up real bad and would not run right at all.
I can get the RX started by cutting the fuel pump and after I start it I have to keep feathering the peddle to keep it going. So I dunno it revs and sounds normal when its running. I will keep ya all posted when I find out whats going on. Ya all do the same,
Later
I can get the RX started by cutting the fuel pump and after I start it I have to keep feathering the peddle to keep it going. So I dunno it revs and sounds normal when its running. I will keep ya all posted when I find out whats going on. Ya all do the same,
Later
No here is the problem, the car does not wanna start, when I do get it started by turning off the fuel pump it will not idle. I have replaced the following AFM, ECU,BAC,TPS and scoped the whole thing for a bad wire, ground and vacuum leak. I even tried the infamous ATF trick which did nothing but cause a bunch of smoke. So I am really starting to think maybe the motor is shot. I have to get a compression tester yet. When it runs though it sounds fine and the rpms still jump like usual. So like I said I am lost. I was just hoping maybe someone would read this that had these symptoms and found it to be somthing other than a shot motor. The motor does not smoke or anything now that I have burnt the ATF out. I have never ruined a rotary yet so I don't know what the symptoms are. Usually on my piston motors it will make a hell of a racket when somthing is wrong. So like I said I am lost.
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From: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Since you don't have a compression testor yet:
When you're cranking the engine, listen carefully to the compression surges in the starter gear noise.
You should hear sets of 6 exactly even sounding surges. (rRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrr)
If they are the least bit uneven, you have a bad seal.
When you're cranking the engine, listen carefully to the compression surges in the starter gear noise.
You should hear sets of 6 exactly even sounding surges. (rRrrRrrRrrRrrRrrRrr)
If they are the least bit uneven, you have a bad seal.
Ya the temp sensor did not work. Over the course of one weekend it got worse. At 1st it would flood when trying to start then by the weekends end it would not hold idle. So I think the Ol Jspec might have bit the dust. Anyway who has bought a Mazda Reman? Or a motor from www.mazdaengines.com I think is the site? I think I need a new motor. I think with my mods 3mm apex seals would be a good idea and the place has 3mm in all turbo motors.
1 more question what compresion #s should I be looking for when I do a test? Also what plug hole do I use to test the compression. I know I could search and its on here somewhere but I thought I would just ask now. I will post my #s with in the next week or so.
Thanks,
Jeremy
1 more question what compresion #s should I be looking for when I do a test? Also what plug hole do I use to test the compression. I know I could search and its on here somewhere but I thought I would just ask now. I will post my #s with in the next week or so.
Thanks,
Jeremy
