Atticus_

Alright, so here is the situation:

FC Turbo II, Haltech standalone, premix

Started it up this morning, probably ~35, ~40 degrees outside. It took a little to start but it has a bad coolant seal so it usually takes a little while if it has sat.
Anyway, drove to work and everything was normal, drove it nice and easy and didn't get on it at all. Let it set for a couple of min. then shut it off at 6:00.
Came out for lunch at 1:00 and tried to start it. it turned, puttered, but didn't start. It was in the low 30's now and it tried it a good while but it didnt start, a few fires, some smoke, but other than that, nothing.

I've ran it below a 1/4 of a tank for the last 2 days, but ive been that low before. i added gas and premix but it still didnt start.
Fuel pump runs, not sure on spark but the puttering and smoke makes me think it is trying to burn something.
dont know if it is flooded or what. im thinking fuel filter might have gotten clogged with crap from the bottom of tank so im planning on changing it tomorrow. Some one said a push start will work but I havent done that yet either. Anyone got any suggestions on what might be the problem/how is should go about checking and or fixing? Any help would be great guys, thanks.

drakeco

iTrader: (3)

car not starting....problem is one of these...fuel, air, or spark...if u got aftermarket alarm.....make sure it is working...other than dat...1st check ur maf sensor...

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

I think you solved your own problem. Time to pour oil into your sparkplug holes and start saving for a rebuild. Once coolant seals go they only get worse. How long did you think you could keep driving your car with coolant leaking into your combustion chamber?

Atticus_

it isnt a bad leak. there is hardly any smoke on startup. as a matter of fact im not even a 100% on the seal being bad anyway. my only indecations are the coolant buzzer goes off a week after i top it off, and it takes a little longer to start than normal, it isnt smoking anymore than what it ever did, and im pretty sure it isnt that far gone yet even if it is bad. its only been a couple of weeks since the coolant thing started anyway.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Is the ECU tuned for cold weather?

Have you done the standard checks like verifying that you have fuel and spark?

Atticus_

it obviously has spark because i went and tried to fire it today after it set overnight and it seemed to almost start up (a few puds after eachother then died.) for it to burn something means that it is getting some fuel into the system, it just dosent sound like enough. It seemed better today than yesterday also, it made more pops and pudders today at least...
It has started in colder weather before so i dont see any reason for it not to now. Again fuel was low, possably picked up some sludge or whatnot from the bottom of the tank? going to try and replace the fuel filter tonight.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Just deflood it using the Haltech fuel pump fuse. Should clear out all the crap.

Atticus_

dont know what the haltech fuel pump fuse is, or how to use it. I bought the car with the haltech already on it, and i really dont know that much about it. Anyway car still dosent run, tried again to start it after i replaced the fuel filter, it did about 5 or 6 complete turns then died again, and went back to puttering and poping. smelled the exhaust and it smelled like gas. Im going to take off the plugs and see what they look like, should be good though, the car only has around 9,XXX ,miles on the rebuilt motor. oh well, ill post back again tonight.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The fuel pump fuse for the haltech is the 30 amp fuse in the haltech fuse block. Do you know where that fuse block is located? Also, the haltech has provisions in the software that will disable the injectors for as long as you like. That also would be useful in deflooding.

Rat

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I'll bet you its flooded big time. As stated there's numerous ways of un-flooding it.

After you get it running however, if you plan to continue driving it in the cold weather, I would have it remapped for the approx. ambient air temp, since its probably what caused the intial flood in the first place. That, or that and a combination of other small things.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The haltech will not require a complete remap, it just appears that the colder cells of the map are not entirely sorted out. Not surprised though, as this is one of the most tedious things to tune out of a Haltech. You get one shot at it then you have to wait 24 hours or so for the car to cool down again.

Admittedly, my cold start is a little lean, but I just bump my alcohol test button a few times and it works like a choke...

Atticus_

turned it without the egi and then tried it, but still no go. I checked the plugs, look like crap so im going to change them. they looked covered in fuel so im assuming it is flooded. ive left it for 24hrs and it still wouldnt start, how long can it stay flooded? what does the haltech de-flooding do? is it the same as pullnig the egi fuse? thanks alot for the input,

I know where the haltech fuses are, but which one is the fuel pump one? is it the only 30 amp?

oh yeah, I can use bur9eq trailings for me leads if i want a colder spark right? my car has a SP and that is what it has on it now, but im not sure if they are leading or trailing, all i know is that they are all bur93q's. but ill double check later.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Thats because you are on a haltech. That fuse does very little for you now.

On the haltech programming, there is an option to disable fuel injectors for whatever reason you may need to shut them down. Deflooding being one of the better reasons. Do you have a laptop? Also, as stated, that EGI fuse is almost next to worthless now, you dont have a standard ECU anymore.

Yes

9s are leadings. Great for high boost aplications but guess what? Very prone to flooding if you dont let them get up to operating temps before you shut the engine back down.

LAter!

Rat

Atticus_

my car is a s4 turbo II with s6 housing with a SP exhaust and intake templates, a TO4E turbonetics turbo running 10 lbs. my question really was, Someone from NGK on the phone at advanced auto told them that leading and trailing only defines which heat goes where (7's in trailing and 9's in leading) so if i want 9's for my trailing (which is what i meant in my above post, but i realized that it doesent make since. lol) i just use all 9 leadings and it dosent make a differance. is that correct? you cant get actual "BUR9EQ Trailing", right?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

9s are meant for trailings and 7s are meant for leadings in a STOCK car. The number actually corresponds to the heat range of the plug. 7s will reach operating temperature faster, however they will retain more heat, and could become a problem in higher boost applications. The 9s will take longer to heat up to operating (self cleaning) temprature, as they dont retain as much heat. This is why some people (like me) that are running more boost and higher HPs will put 9s in all positions. To prevent pre-ignition due to hotter center electrodes pre igniting the mixture.

Rat

Atticus_

thanks that is what i was asking. my car is running all 9s right now, at 10lbs. do you think i will be good ( and better in winter), to run stock 7's for leading?