You still might have a vac leak but that's definately not what's keeping your car from starting. Did you check the fuel pump relay behind the headlight?

 

yea, there were two pins slightly out of spec on it, the fsm says they are supposed to be .64 ohms, but mine measured .80 ohms, but I think it was just because of a lousy reading to the meter.

 

Im gonna take out the plugs tomorrow just to verify they aren't soaked with gas or oil. Then after that Im not sure what to do.

How can I verify the injectors are actually firing without ripping the engine apart?
Is there a way to verify the ECU is doing whats its supposed to with out having the crazy mazda diagnoisis thing?

 

I'm still wondering why your fuel pump jumper doesnt activate the fuel pump. It doesnt matter if your injectors fire if you're not getting fuel to them. You sure you got a clean connection when you jumpered the plug with the key in the ON position?

 

you musta missed that in my post above, i got a clean connection on the jumper, the pump comes on.

 

Whoops

You can look up the wiring diagram for your car and then check the voltages of the injectors at the ECU and also test the resistance of each injector.

 

thats my next plan, maybe get a spare ecu and swap it too.

 

Ok so today im going to check the plugs for gas/oil
try the big unflood procedure in case it is flooded (i did try the fuse trick and such already)
check the ecu that its sending voltage to the injectors
check the impedence of the circuit to the injectors @ the ecu
then remove the ecu and open it up.

What should I look for when I open up the ecu, if something is blown will it be obvious? I know what blown electronics smell like, but I've never opened the ecu before.

 

OK here are the results, really looking for some input here.

Car was not flooded, rotors were dry as a martini, no smell of gas, no residue.

Compression is good, over 100 on each rotor face front and rear

Plugs not coated with oil, had some carbon on them, but nothing major


There are three plugs I found that are not connected to anything. Im not sure what they are, maybe diagnostic or something. They werent connected before the car quit running




My ECU is numbered N333 18 881, this would indicate its been replaced w/ a remanufactured unit correct?


I opened up my ECU and saw some disturbing looking soldier joints on the back of the board. Could this indicate my ECU is fried?






Thanks for any input you can provide!

 

That ECU doesnt look too good. Have you tried pulling codes?

 

I have not, theres no check engine light on the S4, how do you pull codes on it without a mazda diagnostic tool?

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/zerror.html

 

I thought I'd seen that somewhere before. Pretty simple little circuit to build. I'll try it today and see if its throwing any codes. Its definately an ECU, Injector, or wiring issue, because its not getting any fuel.

 

Just curious.... post some pics of yourr FMIC install, like the pipe routing and such...


However... A three position mounting spot like that usually means a power transistor.. and it looks like they got hot or were re-soldered.. I don't have one at my disposal anymore to confirm that though..

 

its the old school trust kit, so everything runs on the passenger side. Im at work now, I'll post a pic when I get home.

the code on the ecu according to rotary resurrection, its a remanufacturered ecu, so I dunno.

 

theres piping, pretty standard.

 

its not throwing any codes, it lights up for 3 seconds and then it doesnt display any codes.

 

I have 12v on all the pins of the smallest connector to the ECU. 3c, 3h, 3e, 3f, specifically for the injectors all show voltage. So does it mean my wiring is fucked up, or my ecu is dead?

 

The injectors are SUPPOSED to show voltage all the time until they are pulsed. Have you checked all your under the hood fuses/etc? Sure you didn't drill through something or knock something off as you were installing the intercooler?

 

yea, the ecu pulses the ground to get them to fire. i dbl checked every fuse, short of stripping apart the wiring harnesses to check for breaks, everything looks good, everything is connected, and nothing is damaged that i can see. The only thing I can think of is that maybe a wire inside on of the harnesses was brittle and split.

and reading other threads about ecu/injectors not firing, i dbl checked to make sure that the ground for the ecu was connected to the rotor housing, which it is.

 

its alive, the damn ground on the rotor housing by the driver side was connected, but the wire inside was severed somehow, must have gotten a brittle and split. thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for posting the fix Not many people follow up with their issues.

James

 

heh, my name is James too

and ironically the harness for the injectors was no where near where I was installing the fmic. just up and split on its own.