Car Won't Start after FMIC install (yes i've searched, gone thru the fsm, etc)
 

Ok I installed my old school greddy fmic yesterday. The car started and ran fine before the kit. After everything was done and installed I tried to fire it up and go for a test drive. It cranks fine and tried to fire but then nothing. Now I can crank it to my hearts content and it won't fire.

I've checked per the FSM:
All connectors connectd
No vacuum leak
bac connected
AFM connected
AFM checked per fsm, in spec
Cas resistance, good
leading coil resistance good
trailing coil resistance good
i can hear the relays click on when it goes to on.
i believe the fuel pump is getting voltage, i need to dbl check it tomorrow in the day light
I heard the injectors click when i was checking the resistance on the egi inj fuse.
EGI comp, EGI Inj fuses are good
engine fuse is good
all other fuses good.
12.5 volts on the battery
good grounds
cranks fine just won't fire.
don't think its flooded, i tried the procedure in the manual for flooring it and cranking for 15 seconds. I didnt smell any gas. I have a 1/4 tank and it started up fine before.

My thoughts are ignition somehow, or fuel system. What else can I check tomorrow, and has anyone else had a similiar problem?

Check for spark at all in your massive search? Tried jumpering the fuel pump?

how did you check for vacuum leaks??? is there a tool to pressurize the system when the car isnt running???(serious question, not trying to be sarcastic) i thought the car had to be running to check for vacuum leaks????

theres nothing disconnected is what i mean. its hard to check for other vac leaks when it wont fire

i checked the coils and stuff, but i need to get a friend tomorrow to make sure theres spark. the coils and such have the right reisitance.

havent jumpered the pump, remind me exactly what that does. I know its that green or yellow connector in the passenger side. (Re-primes the fuel system?)

i also checked the resister pack to make sure it was connected

i also checked the resister pack to make sure it was connected

To check spark just pull one spark plug wire out at a time and lay it on the driverside strut tower to see if it arcs. For the fuel pump jumper get get a piece of wire and bend it into a U shape to pressurize the fuel system with the ignition on ON. Dont leave the jumper in too long.

I jumpered the pump, its dead silent w/ the key on the on position. This means what? My pump is dead, or something to do with the resister pack is toast? I felt the main 4 prong relay click, but I didnt feel the relay right next to it click (which is the circular one, its also labeled main relay in the fsm).

i got spark, so that leaves fuel pump, resister pack, or some other aspect of fuel system

Are you talking about the resistor pack for the injectors? If so that has nothing to do with it since the when the fuel pump is jumpered the injectors shouldnt be open. Double check your fuel pump. Maybe the fuel pump relay? It's located behind the passenger side headlight where pipe 1 is.

I would thing you buggared something up with the fuel pump relay when you were mucking about with the MAF and such... somewhere over in the left side of the engine bay you must have pulled a wire, grounded a wire, or something...

I DOUBT its the fuel pump itself..

Did you check all the fuses?????

As would I, since it ran on saturday morning before i ripped off the stock IC.

I did check the fuses, engine, egi comp, egi inj are good. I dunno if used the term for the resister, but its that silver deal by the passenger headlight that changes the fuel pump voltage from 9v to 12v at cruise or load I believe. Theres also the relay in the arse end of the car by the power antenna, but i was never back there, and wouldnt expect it to spontaneously fail.

Dont ARC coils by ground IE the body for spark it can damage the coil pack.

You have an S4 so floring the pedel and cranking to unflood dosent work unless you pull the EGI INJ fuse. However does work on S5's.

The pump only pumps when cranking unless you rewired it or jumper it to get 12v and you should be able to hear it pump.

The TII's have both a injector and fule pump resistor pack. Both behinde the passenger head light. Maybe you knoked one of these lose?

For the one or 2 seconds you crank I dont see how it could do anything. I've done it several times with no problems.

There resistor coils and when you ground them out it can cause them to brake. Just giving a precaution. Odds are it wont hurt it for a short time but you never know it could add another puzzel to the mistery and cost you alot of dough.

You obveusly know the cars very well and probly bettor then me. I like to add that stuff incase someone is searching and stumble across this and they get a extra bit of info they may need.

Did you take care of the vacum lines that need to be taken care of in S4 TIIs.




Gil

Rats nest was removed a long time ago, theres nothing disconnected as far as vac.

I tested all four wires for spark, they all have it.
I got a good connection and jumpered the fuel pump, it does come on.
I took out the fuel pump resister relay by the headlight and checked it for impedence per the fsm. Its seems to be in spec, but the two pins that are supposed to be .64 ohms measure .80 ohms, so im not sure if thats it.

So fuel is flowing while its cranking, and it is getting spark.

This leaves what? ECU? Injectors?

Rats nest was removed a long time ago, theres nothing disconnected as far as vac.

I tested all four wires for spark, they all have it.
I got a good connection and jumpered the fuel pump, it does come on.
I took out the fuel pump resister relay by the headlight and checked it for impedence per the fsm. Its seems to be in spec, but the two pins that are supposed to be .64 ohms measure .80 ohms, so im not sure if thats it.

So fuel is flowing while its cranking, and it is getting spark.

This leaves what? ECU? Injectors?

man, the forum is messed up, 3 duplicate posts

4

same thing happened to me. turned out to be a huge vac leak... i forgot to tighten one clamp and it wouldn't fire at all. also are you using an old bov with your old skool fmic? the one that came with mine was useless and caused another huge leak.

nope, its my greddy type S that i got about a year ago. i got a flange and had it welded on. There are two injectors in the pipe that leads to the throttle. Could those cause a leak? I have the tops capped.

it could but probably not big enough that it wouldn't start.

i know what vac leaks sound like when rx7's try to start, when they have leaks it usally will fire and try and run and die. Mine doesn't even fire, all it does is turn over. Sounds normal like any other day I'd go to start it up, just won't fire up.