car wont star please help
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: El Monte, Calinafornia
car wont star please help
hey thanks for clicking im having a bit of a problem with my car (just so u know i have tired doing a search but i couldn't find anything to really help) ok my car is an 88 t2 has a fresh rebuilt engine with a street port. i have had the car turn on a few times. i was able to get it started only by holding the maf open about half way and had to keep feeding it gas till the car warmed up once it was warm it would stay on.
i would turn on my car and drive it around my gated community and just park it after because i cant keep my car in the same spot for more then 3 days...... one day i went out to start it it wouldn't start instead it back fired 2 times ever since then i haven't been able to get it started.
i have changed the tps, throttle body, ecu, and the maf. i have also done the timing on it. anyone have any ideas on what it could be?
any help would be greatly appreciated
here is a video of the first time it started (apparently it wouldn't let him rev it up)
i would turn on my car and drive it around my gated community and just park it after because i cant keep my car in the same spot for more then 3 days...... one day i went out to start it it wouldn't start instead it back fired 2 times ever since then i haven't been able to get it started.
i have changed the tps, throttle body, ecu, and the maf. i have also done the timing on it. anyone have any ideas on what it could be?
any help would be greatly appreciated
here is a video of the first time it started (apparently it wouldn't let him rev it up)
Probably flooded.
Newly rebuilt motors that you used old housings on, tend to be low on compression until they are worn in (2-3000 miles).
Follow the de-flooding procedure found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread (found at the top of this section as well as the top of the new member technical section of the board).
Newly rebuilt motors that you used old housings on, tend to be low on compression until they are worn in (2-3000 miles).
Follow the de-flooding procedure found in the FAQ for FC sticky thread (found at the top of this section as well as the top of the new member technical section of the board).
its flooded like said above. also dont run your engine to hard on a fresh rebuild or your gonna have big problems, you gotta brake in the motor first. remove all spark plugs and try turning it ovr without any in, then follow the rest of the deflodding procedure. make sure your spark plugs are not damp with fuel, put them back in and there ya go
Some say you don't have to, some say you must. But when I hear from those who build race engines that you don't have to break them in, then I think I might go with them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: El Monte, Calinafornia
lol i know i wasnt planning on driving it hard till its properly broken on my friend thats in the car knows not to do that as well and i have tried to deflood the engine i took out both the leading spark plugs and disconnected the crank angle sensor crank my engine for a bit put them back in and nothing
Some say you don't have to, some say you must. But when I hear from those who build race engines that you don't have to break them in, then I think I might go with them.
When building a race engine that is only meant to be used for racing, so in other words, to be used once in a while, or in even simpler words, not going to last a long time, then no, you do not have to break them in as they are going to go to the track right away. On a daily driver, to ensure longevity of the engine components, you MUST break in the engine per manufacturers spec.
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#1 the engine only has to last a race or season so break in is not as important, however I do not know of any professional team racing rotary engines that do not break one in by using it for testing and track set up/practice for at least one of two sessions, before using it as a race engine. I do know a lot of amateur racers however that are willing to qualify and race on a engine they just rebuilt... of course that is for cost reasons. They can't afford to have a couple engines around in various states of break in.
#2 Again professional racers are not using used housing unless they show very very minimal wear (less than a couple hours). This would be considerably less wear than even an street engine with 10,000 miles on it. A new housing will make full power in considerably less time than a used housing and require a minimal break in period. The would of course be the absolute opposite of a street engine with say 50,000 or 60,000 miles on it, that will need at least 1000 miles for a new set of apex seals to seat into the 60,000 mile used housing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: El Monte, Calinafornia
well thanks for trying to help i de-flooded it and still nothing someone told me to try putting some atf in the engine to help build compression so im going to try that
There are 3 vacum lines when you open the hood right where it says 13b. The top hose easy the easiest to do but if you get some atf in to it via a squeeze oil trigger gun give it 3 or 4 squirts your car will start without pulling floodedd spark plugs. It will smoke like crazy but it will start. good luck
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From: Kissimmee, FL/Narita-shi, Chiba-ken Japan
Have you checked your fuel pressure? If its low, its probably your Fuel Resistor Relay it controls the voltage of your pump. I have seen that go bad.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: El Monte, Calinafornia
alright guys thanks for all ur help it seems to be my problem is fuel (not flooding its the opposite theres not enough fuel getting to engine so im going to try changing and cleaning acouple of things
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