car wont rev past 3500 rpms helllppp!!!!
12-24-07, 06:49 PM
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car wont rev past 3500 rpms helllppp!!!!
ok guys this is what i have i got a 88 n/a with a 88 t11 swap i used the whole front turbo harness with ecu that came with the swap . i finally got it to start after having no spark. i changed the turbo afm with an na one and finally got spark. now it will start but wont rev past 3500 to 4000 rpms. i checked the injector wires and even switched them around thinking they were connected backwards after i did that it still does the same thing. i checked for boost leaks and made sure everything was connected right. please guys can you help i cant really afford to take it to a shop this project really put a big whole in my pocket. once again thanks alot
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12-24-07, 07:52 PM
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ok guys this is what i have i got a 88 n/a with a 88 t11 swap i used the whole front turbo harness with ecu that came with the swap . i finally got it to start after having no spark. i changed the turbo afm with an na one and finally got spark. now it will start but wont rev past 3500 to 4000 rpms. i checked the injector wires and even switched them around thinking they were connected backwards after i did that it still does the same thing. i checked for boost leaks and made sure everything was connected right. please guys can you help i cant really afford to take it to a shop this project really put a big whole in my pocket. once again thanks alot
MAZDAFIEND
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12-24-07, 08:26 PM
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You probably put a turbo EM harness in a n/a and didn't make adjustments to the wiring at the FEM-01 and FEM-02 connectors and are probably using a non turbo pressure sensor that does not recognize more that one atmosphere.
So? Which of the above do I have wrong?
So? Which of the above do I have wrong?
12-25-07, 12:23 AM
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quoting this from the manual:
8 Engine Lacks Power, Accelerates Poorly Or Hesitates
1. Leaking intake air system
2. Malfunctioning 6 port induction system or variable dynamic effective intake
3. Incorrect ingition timing or malfunctioning electronic spark advance system
4. Jumper wire hasnt been removed from the initial set switch connector
5. Accelerator cable incorrectly adjusted or loose
6. Stuck double throttle system
7. Faulty electronic spark advance knock control system
8. Defective secondary air injection system air control valve (ACV) or water thermo sensor
9. Air cleaner element clogged
10. Malfunctioning turbo charger
11. Defective waste gate valve
12. Defective air flow meter, intake air temperature sensor or auxiliary port valve
13. Leaking injector(s) or incorrect injection volume
14. Defective fuel system boost sensor, pressure sensor or solenoid resistor
15. Incorrect fuel pressure/malfunctioning fuel pump control system
16. Faulty throttle sensor
17. Low compression pressure
18. Plugged exhaust system
19. Faulty A/C cut-out control switch
20. Malfuntioning control unit and or control sytem
Start with those, it SHOULD be one of them.
8 Engine Lacks Power, Accelerates Poorly Or Hesitates
1. Leaking intake air system
2. Malfunctioning 6 port induction system or variable dynamic effective intake
3. Incorrect ingition timing or malfunctioning electronic spark advance system
4. Jumper wire hasnt been removed from the initial set switch connector
5. Accelerator cable incorrectly adjusted or loose
6. Stuck double throttle system
7. Faulty electronic spark advance knock control system
8. Defective secondary air injection system air control valve (ACV) or water thermo sensor
9. Air cleaner element clogged
10. Malfunctioning turbo charger
11. Defective waste gate valve
12. Defective air flow meter, intake air temperature sensor or auxiliary port valve
13. Leaking injector(s) or incorrect injection volume
14. Defective fuel system boost sensor, pressure sensor or solenoid resistor
15. Incorrect fuel pressure/malfunctioning fuel pump control system
16. Faulty throttle sensor
17. Low compression pressure
18. Plugged exhaust system
19. Faulty A/C cut-out control switch
20. Malfuntioning control unit and or control sytem
Start with those, it SHOULD be one of them.
12-25-07, 07:45 AM
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quoting this from the manual:
8 Engine Lacks Power, Accelerates Poorly Or Hesitates
1. Leaking intake air system
2. Malfunctioning 6 port induction system or variable dynamic effective intake
3. Incorrect ingition timing or malfunctioning electronic spark advance system
4. Jumper wire hasnt been removed from the initial set switch connector
5. Accelerator cable incorrectly adjusted or loose
6. Stuck double throttle system
7. Faulty electronic spark advance knock control system
8. Defective secondary air injection system air control valve (ACV) or water thermo sensor
9. Air cleaner element clogged
10. Malfunctioning turbo charger
11. Defective waste gate valve
12. Defective air flow meter, intake air temperature sensor or auxiliary port valve
13. Leaking injector(s) or incorrect injection volume
14. Defective fuel system boost sensor, pressure sensor or solenoid resistor
15. Incorrect fuel pressure/malfunctioning fuel pump control system
16. Faulty throttle sensor
17. Low compression pressure
18. Plugged exhaust system
19. Faulty A/C cut-out control switch
20. Malfuntioning control unit and or control sytem
Start with those, it SHOULD be one of them.
8 Engine Lacks Power, Accelerates Poorly Or Hesitates
1. Leaking intake air system
2. Malfunctioning 6 port induction system or variable dynamic effective intake
3. Incorrect ingition timing or malfunctioning electronic spark advance system
4. Jumper wire hasnt been removed from the initial set switch connector
5. Accelerator cable incorrectly adjusted or loose
6. Stuck double throttle system
7. Faulty electronic spark advance knock control system
8. Defective secondary air injection system air control valve (ACV) or water thermo sensor
9. Air cleaner element clogged
10. Malfunctioning turbo charger
11. Defective waste gate valve
12. Defective air flow meter, intake air temperature sensor or auxiliary port valve
13. Leaking injector(s) or incorrect injection volume
14. Defective fuel system boost sensor, pressure sensor or solenoid resistor
15. Incorrect fuel pressure/malfunctioning fuel pump control system
16. Faulty throttle sensor
17. Low compression pressure
18. Plugged exhaust system
19. Faulty A/C cut-out control switch
20. Malfuntioning control unit and or control sytem
Start with those, it SHOULD be one of them.
I'd also be interesting to know exactly what is meant it won't go past 3800rpm. Is that under hard acceleration or can you actually drive the car in a gentle manner and get past 3800rpm and up to six grand or so. Or do you literally mean that under no circumstance can you get past 3800rpm?
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12-25-07, 03:20 PM
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I bet it's none of the above and that it's related to using a turboEM harness in conjunction with the n/a front harness along with the wrong boost sensor/afm.
I'd also be interesting to know exactly what is meant it won't go past 3800rpm. Is that under hard acceleration or can you actually drive the car in a gentle manner and get past 3800rpm and up to six grand or so. Or do you literally mean that under no circumstance can you get past 3800rpm?
I'd also be interesting to know exactly what is meant it won't go past 3800rpm. Is that under hard acceleration or can you actually drive the car in a gentle manner and get past 3800rpm and up to six grand or so. Or do you literally mean that under no circumstance can you get past 3800rpm?
12-25-07, 04:48 PM
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ok now i went out side and checked the boost grounds and they werent hooked up then i pluged it in and then the car started it went to 7000 no problem then i reved it again and it hesated at 4000 now it wont go past 3000 have any ideas
12-25-07, 05:07 PM
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alright now i change the injection plugs and if i rev it up and cut off the fuel at 4000 and turn it back on it will rev past 7000 it sounds like the modified throttle body sucks or doesnt work the guy i bought it from did the pro fc some thing to it tell me if im wrong please let me know some moe info im almost there
12-25-07, 09:22 PM
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Some of the above I can't make sense of. Might be me. But, answer me this. What did you do to make the alternator work? The two alternator wires are not in the Turbo EM harness, unlike the non turbo EM harness. So how did you handle the two small wires that go to the alternator.
Your answer to the above might be the clue to what is wrong with the rest of the swap.
Your answer to the above might be the clue to what is wrong with the rest of the swap.
12-26-07, 04:22 PM
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Some of the above I can't make sense of. Might be me. But, answer me this. What did you do to make the alternator work? The two alternator wires are not in the Turbo EM harness, unlike the non turbo EM harness. So how did you handle the two small wires that go to the alternator.
Your answer to the above might be the clue to what is wrong with the rest of the swap.
Your answer to the above might be the clue to what is wrong with the rest of the swap.
12-26-07, 05:54 PM
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Seems a sensile approach would be to go to the Fuel section of the FSM and the pages called Control Unit and compare the voltages for each pin on your car to the values given in the manual.
I'd be interested in the output of the boost sensor on your car compared to the FSM and the output of the TPS to the ECU when connected up.
If the throttle rework was just the removal of the the outer set of secondary throttle plates and they left the inner set of plates in place and working, that shouldn't effect you.
When you say it won't go past 3000rpm I understand you Mean just that. Even if you use light throttle pressure the rpm's won't go past 3000rpm. That's what you wrote and that's what I understand to be the case.
If you pull the Trail plug wires off, will this engine still idle/run? Just curious if your just running on Trail plugs and don't know it.
And I reread your post. It does say you changed the Front harness and the EM harness from the turbo car to the non turbo car. sorta
12-27-07, 04:41 PM
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Try unplugging the TPS connector and trying again. It could be a corrupt TPS is *hitting* fuel cut when it shouldn't. If disconnected it can't do that.
Seems a sensile approach would be to go to the Fuel section of the FSM and the pages called Control Unit and compare the voltages for each pin on your car to the values given in the manual.
I'd be interested in the output of the boost sensor on your car compared to the FSM and the output of the TPS to the ECU when connected up.
If the throttle rework was just the removal of the the outer set of secondary throttle plates and they left the inner set of plates in place and working, that shouldn't effect you.
When you say it won't go past 3000rpm I understand you Mean just that. Even if you use light throttle pressure the rpm's won't go past 3000rpm. That's what you wrote and that's what I understand to be the case.
If you pull the Trail plug wires off, will this engine still idle/run? Just curious if your just running on Trail plugs and don't know it.
And I reread your post. It does say you changed the Front harness and the EM harness from the turbo car to the non turbo car. sorta
Seems a sensile approach would be to go to the Fuel section of the FSM and the pages called Control Unit and compare the voltages for each pin on your car to the values given in the manual.
I'd be interested in the output of the boost sensor on your car compared to the FSM and the output of the TPS to the ECU when connected up.
If the throttle rework was just the removal of the the outer set of secondary throttle plates and they left the inner set of plates in place and working, that shouldn't effect you.
When you say it won't go past 3000rpm I understand you Mean just that. Even if you use light throttle pressure the rpm's won't go past 3000rpm. That's what you wrote and that's what I understand to be the case.
If you pull the Trail plug wires off, will this engine still idle/run? Just curious if your just running on Trail plugs and don't know it.
And I reread your post. It does say you changed the Front harness and the EM harness from the turbo car to the non turbo car. sorta
alright i un pluged the tps and it still does the same thing.then i unpluged my fuel cut off switch and it will pass 4000 rpms but when i floor it for some reason it wants to die and when its running its smokes alittle but the fumes are strong it doesnt smell like its running rich and its not black smoke its bluish grayish hope im not ****** up my motor and it wont idle too still dont know what to do
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