marcus219

I was just heading over to bank, downshifted into 3rd to take corner and when i let out clutch to take corner, car starting stumbling, major loss of power, pulled over, car died at adle, i got home but had to do like 4 k in 2nd. Oil press good, temp, volt, etc. No CEL light, got home, checked spark plug wires, gonna go check plugs now. I did my shifter bushings, first tiem doing it, but I'm pretty sure I did it right, and dont see how even me doing that wrong could be related. Car ran great all day. Just after I took corner this started acted wierd. Also, the other day I filled up p/s fluid to much and I noticed that it was starting to pour out, could this have gotten on any electiral connections? I looked but didnt see anything of the sort.

1986 GXL, 140k...5spd.

marcus219

Sound kinda like air flow sensor? I have a friend who had same problem..do you think something could have wiggled loose in corner, or just happened to be when i was taking a corner? Any help....

marcus219

Not sure if these things are related, but it might help.

1. I have noticed in the morning my oil press. isn't what it should be when I start it, reads below 30psi. I just figure its a bad sending unit b/c as soon as I drive it and it gets warmed up the oil pressure gets up to normal, at 2500 RPM's its above 60psi, idle is about 30psi.

2. When I start car cold sometimes (only when cold), I hear a beeping noice from that dash, it starts off as a long beep, then goes into pulse beeps (wierd as hell to me), I'm not sure if its some kind of low oil presuure warning beep or something, no CEL light with this or anything, just beep. But it also will go away when the car is driven and warmed up.

3. The last couple days the car has not the the 3k start up when cold, TPS, or could it be that sensor below radiator for the cold start?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

darkwaveboi

first thing you should do is check compression..or at least do the ghetto compression test...thats the first thing i did..make sure you dont waste your time tryign to find the little things that are wrong if the engine lost an apex

marcus219

Compression test is def. some thing I want to try and was gonna do even before this happened just to see how healthy my engine is. But, I just went out to car and made sure AFM connections were good, checked vacc. lines etc...so I went to start car, crank, crank, crank, nothing, so ofcourse its flooded (smelling gas), I pull fuse and do unflooding proced. Car fires up, i hold it at like 3k and it feels semi normal (still a little ruff, but alot of power seemed to come back, felt much smoother too). So i try to let it idle and as it goes below 1,000 the motor/trans starts shaking like crazy, so I give it gas up to 2k. I'm def. still thinking its a sensor (hoping), b/c of how now the problem is just an idle issue and semi-ruff running instead of feeling completely ruff at all engine RPM's.

Matlock

Damn! I've got a compression gauge if you'd like me to pop over with it I can. Let me know what your going to do. I can come over and help you diagnose the problem with you. It very well could be a sensor, but finding out the compression would rule out the big "one"!

Let me know

Steven

chris-reedtn

Check the tps, this thing is prob the prob, my car did the exact same thing, replaced and reset the tps, and no more problems, also you could check for a vacume leak, same sort of problem, or as you staited.

-Chris

marcus219

Thanks again man..yes if you could come over with the comp. tester, that would be great. My buddy marlon is over here right now, we are trying

marcus219

Nevermind that last post. Matlock came over 2night with a compression tester and we good 50-30-0 on rear rotor (ohhh man), then on front was like 100-100-100 I think. Guess thats answers all my questions...car is gonna be out of commision for a bit. Only got 1,200 in the bank...gonna have to think of somethinig. Matlock was nice enough to offer to help with me rebuild (or new motor installation, which ever route I decide to go). Thanks again man!

Marc

chris-reedtn

Damn sorry to hear that man, you should go thru kevin landers for the rebuild though. exactly how much money you have in the bank, the only thing that suck is that your on the other side of the country, but he might be able to work something out for you for shipping costs and all, just ask him, or you can always rebuild yourself, if you've never done it before atkins rotary sells a video for 29.95 i think to show you how to do it, but what ever you choose, good luck man,

-Chris

Matlock

Wow, his prices are pretty nice, and I've asked him a few Q's in the past and he was very helpful and quick to respond. Check out his site http://www.rotaryresurrection.com
Looks like a good option!

marcus219

Rotary Resurrection seems like a that might be my route. I wish I had money to buy new rotor housings though, but from what I've read and that sites information, break-in procedures and the break-in period is longer and a bit more rough. I'd like to get a street port done while its being rebuilt...do you guys think that w/that basic rebuild (same rotor housings, just new oil, coolant seals, apex seals, etc.) that the motor would still run smooth and still maintain reliability w/a street port? This whole thing fu$%ing sucks, but what happened isn't gonna magically become fixed by bitching about it now....hehe. I did give cuss at my car for a bit though and give it signs !! Thanks for the tip on that website though guys.

Oh yeah, also had a question about that Rotar. Ressu. core charge, how can you give him back a core if your just sending in your motor to get it rebuilt? So you still have to pay $100 for no core, even if you don't have one to give? Maybe I'm just mis-understanding it.