TempestRaces

I've been working at this in my spare time for the last year and a half now. I finally got the turbo engine installed and everything should have been ready. I found all the missing parts I didn't have slowly but surely and now it's all assembled with all the proper turbo parts.

Now, when I try to start the car I don't have anything. No cranking, no noise. I have no check engine light KOEO either. It doesn't even test illuminate the MIL light at all. The starter is good, I've bench tested it. It's getting proper voltage from a brand spanking new battery.

I suppose now would be a good time to impart the fact my main engine harness is a j-spec I lenthened to use. I know it won't run all the accessories and needs to be changed for a proper one when I get one but it should start the engine at least, right?

I don't think my computer is getting power. Anyone know what pins it should get power on? Is it fed 5 volts or 12? Can I jump into like say a stereo wire and just test to see if it's powering up ok? I'm just not sure where to go with this from here to troubleshoot the problem. The mitchelle wiring diagrams aren't very useful for this car. I work in a garage but no one knows rotaries and everyone has a different 'sure reason' why the car is acting like this.

Anyone have any clues before I condem the harness and thus scrap the idea of driving my newly turbo'd 7 any time soon? Or even finding out if the new engine starts. I have two turbo computers and I've tried both, neither change the way the car acts.

So anyone with any ideas, or a s5 harness they wanna part with cheap/reasonable lemme know here, or pm me.

Also, I have no clutch peddle and bleeding it off didn't help. The peddle goes almost all the way to the floor when you press it, then when you crack the bleeder it goes a bit father down but never comes up on it's own. Its a turbo trannie and slave cylinder but my NA master cylinder. Will this set up work?

BTW, yeah I searched. I found a whole slew of posts that didn't really answer my questions so if anyone can help me I'd be grateful, if you just wanna tell me to search never mind saying anything please. This is frustrating enough without being stymied at another turn by the search police.

HAILERS

The starter has nothing to do with the ECU. The ECU can be in the backyard and my starter will turn the engine over,.

Pull the small plug off the ECU. You should have battery voltage on the 3I and 3J pins. They are on the far left of the plug. Also you should have batt voltage on 3C, 3E, 3F. There is a online fsm with the wiring diagrams in it plus CONTROL UNIT that gives the output input of each pin.

I'd suspect the JSPEC harness is the problem. Are you just talking the emissions harness or the complete car harness is a JSPEC?

There's no reason to jumper power to the ECU if you don't have the wiring diagrams. JSPEC harness is almost 100percent your problem (I've never seen one in my life. It's my Guess of The Day).

myexlex

Ok, does the car start at all ?? You mentioned no cranking or anything, but then you mentioned your car acting bad, so its a contradictory statement. Anyways, if the car doesnt crank at all, then its not an ecu problem.. check your starter connections and also your ign connection. two of which have nothing to do with the engine harnes.s

iceblue

First what ECU do you have and using?

Your power and cranking are part of the body harness and nothing to do with the JDM harness. Actually you can make it crank without the motor in the car. My guess is the wire I have pointed out in the attachment pic. Your lights and cranking power is all due to your bodies electrical system.

I cannot vouch 100% on the S5 harness. But the JDM harness and ECU can be a major problem. The CAS is part of the motor harness on JDM and part of the body on USDM. This is very important and must be paired with the ECU of same origins. If your USDM body harness has a CAS on it use this with a USDM ECU.

Your problem I bet if your not getting power is first in body harness. Then the CAS. Then wrong or bad ECU.

TempestRaces

The starter has all aproprate connections and voltages. The starter was bench tested and works aproprately. The ignition switch worked before I did the swap...

The harness in question is the one which wraps all around the engine and enters the passenger compartment and runs down to the ECU. I will check the pins mentioned for power on Monday. Thanks for the info.

When i turn the key to start the brake warning light comes on but that's the only change in the instrumentation of the car. Any further information needed to answer my questions just lemme know. I'm having issues remembering how the car ran when it did. It never ran well as i bought it running on one rotor and always planned to either swap or rebuild it anyway.

If I have power on the pins mentioned than can I assume the harness is not at fault? I had to add two feet of lenth to every wire in it. I did some of it myself and a classmate did the other half. I can speak for the integrety of my solder joints but can't really speak for the parts she did. I didn't watch her like a hawk.

Edited to say I have ECU number 374, for an s5 turbo car/engine. I have two of them actually. I have one that is Jspec which came with the jspec harness and one which is USDM and did not come with a harness. I've used both, neither change the none starting behaviour of the vehicle.


The car has not run for the last two years, not since I totally finished the death of the NA engine and started the swap to the turbo.

HAILERS

I feel brave today, so let me step up to the plate and say *you can't mix series five emissions harness with series four harness.

Ok, I'll retract that a bit. It can be done, I know I could do it. But you say you have not the wiring diagram for the series four or series five (I'm reading a bit into this), so I'd say a good 110 percent of the ECU problem is the spliced harness.

I think the best way to go is to get a series four turbo ECU and use your old n/a harness with a couple of wiring changes.

The starter is another issure. It could be the interlock switch on the clutch pedal (jumper it to bypass it). The circuit goes from the key....through the interlock switch.....to a theft relay near the Main Relay.....to the spade on the starter.

Cars without theft protection have not that relay mentioned but instead they have a jumper wire in the plug that would have gone to that relay. I THINK the jumper plug is BLUE in color. Can't miss it when looking under the Trail Coil assy. On occasion I'll jumper 12v from the battery to the black/white wire in that connector to spin the starter.

iceblue

my my HAILERS you are feeling brave today. :-) I am going with HAILERS at this point. Sounds like A+ NFO and he kows alot more then me.

HAILERS

I just have to admit I'm full of IT. I realized just now that I gave the pins for a series four. Since I wrote that post it has been mentioned that there is a series FIVE ECU in the car. So the pins I mentioned won't match.

There is a free online fsm for the series five. There is a seciton in the FUEL seciton called CONTROL UNIT and it tells what the value of each pin is on the ECU. Sorry, I don't think things are goind to work out when you look at them. Might be wrong.

TempestRaces

I guess I wasn't clear. Sorry. Car is a 90/91 and so is the engine, computer and wiring. Whole kit and caboodle is series five.

Car is Canadian and doesn't have security at all. The clutch is f*cked at this time. Could that do it. *points up at orginal post about clutch peddle.* Could that cause this issue?

The NA wiring for the trannie wasn't just like that of the turbo trannie. Is there anything I could have f*cked up wiring in the turbo trannie that would cause this? I'd love to get the car running on it's own steam sometime soon because I can't leave it dead in the water at work for too much longer. The boss comes back from his trip in two or so weeks and it has to be gone by then, running or not.

iceblue

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

THere are three harnesses for the front. The emmission harness which is at the passenger side firewall, The long 40lb one that comes out of the driver side, and the one that connects the battery to the starter and acouple of other things. it goes the the big 80 amp bolted in fuse in the engine compartment.

HAILERS

OK. All series five stuff. Attached are jpgs of the CONTROL UNIT out of the series five fsm. I'd check pins 1A and 1b for 12volts. Then check the injectors for 12volts, pin 3X, 3W, 3Y and 3Z.

HAILERS

And:

TempestRaces

I'll check those out Monday when I hit work, thanks a lot.

Should the MIL light be coming on when I have KOEO in this car right now? Because if it's suppose to be with all the other idiot lights by the clock than it does not illuminate at all right now. Of course there is a harness connector under my dash that isn't plugged into anything right now because of the whole jspec aspec harness thing, but I was under the assumption that was for accessories.

myexlex

Even thought the clutch is not working, if you press the clutch all the way they should work.

HAILERS

The ICEBLUE knows a thing about JDM harness that I did not know. You might take note of what he said about the CAS wiring.

If you have voltage at the pins I recommended in my last post, then take a look at the CAS wiring. I'd ohm the four wires out FROM the ECU to make sure they are making connection. The CAS has two coils so you can go to the pins on the ECU and ring thru the coils one at a time. Four wires involved. Two at a time.

I should have stayed out of this thread. I've NEVER seen a JDM emissions harness. I did have a understanding they are different than USA though.

iceblue

I am sure it just sliped your attention bud.

Chalk it up to recent headache with a JDM harness.
The JDM emissions harness allso does not have the windshield wiper motor assembly. So this must be wired up. And the CAS ECU deal is if you use a JDM ECU you must have the JDM harness or if you use a USDM ECU you must use the CAS plug from the body harness.

WAYNE88N/A

Good idea- and make sure you pull the plug off of the ECU first, or you'll read back through it and think you have a good circuit. In other words, isolate the CAS circuits so you KNOW you're just reading the wiring/ coils...

I don't know anything about the JDM harness, either, so I can't tell you which wire colors to pair up for the resistance readings. Regardless, you'll have to read the two that share the same coil to get anything...Then the other two...