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Car starts when fuel pump unplugged?

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Old 04-16-04, 02:44 PM
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So I use an ohmeter on the two left connectors of the AFM then thats about the point i get lost at,


What wayne is saying is that when you're testing the pins, you should get a Zero voltage reading until you push on the flapper door that's inside the AFM. He's talking about an "Open" circuit and once the AFM's circuit is "Closed", by moving its flapper door, then it conducts electricty and therefore has "continuity".

I think Wayne is suggesting that the AFM might be whacking out the circuit opening relay or vice versa.

I posted the cuicuit opening relay diagnostic instructions in my previous post.

Last edited by Mobius; 04-16-04 at 02:49 PM.
Old 04-16-04, 03:57 PM
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Thanks mobius, again, I did get it running pretty decently, i drove it for like 20 mins aor so, kinda fun to drive. But when it is cold its kinda hard to keep running. It'll start and die and do this for like 5 times till i find the right position on the throttle. its almost like i have to pump the throttle just to keep it running. It almost acts like the afm is unplugged. I have not checked the afm yet but i did jumper a wire from the batt to the fuel pump so the pump ran with a swtch versus the circuit opening relay. I did test to see if there was any power to the factory power wire to the pump and with the car running there was zero voltage. Also when the car is heating up i can press the throttle fast and it bogs down pretty bad, but when i press it slowly it does go up in rpms. Could a lot of my problems be the circuitry in the AFM be bad or is there something that could be making the afm bad.
Oh yeah what are the biggest advantages of having an entire TII tranny+rearend, other than it being stronger, the car came with it when i bought it just out of curiosity?
Old 04-16-04, 05:24 PM
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It'll start and die and do this for like 5 times till i find the right position on the throttle.


You mentioned the water thermo sensor trouble code came up.....That's probably it, maybe in tandem with a maltuned TPS. See arron cakes web site regarding setting the TPS.


Also when the car is heating up i can press the throttle fast and it bogs down pretty bad, but when i press it slowly it does go up in rpms. Could a lot of my problems be the circuitry in the AFM be bad or is there something that could be making the afm bad


My experience with the AFM going whack is that my alternator went bad.....Basically the way I understood it was that the ECU is a digital system so when it wasn't getting the right voltage supplied, then it either wigged out the +5V/-5V signals giving the AFM bad information, or was not supplying enough electricity to open the flapper door.

But since you seem to have a fuel pressure problem (instead of an alternator problem) that is related to the AFM, I suggest it's the opening relay....

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2ndgen/manu...ng_diagram.pdf

Because on page 28 of the above .pdf file, it shows that circuit opening relay seems to act as intermediary between fuel pump and AFM.

Replace that relay or test it. Maybe its as simple as cleaning its electrical contacts?

The tII tranny is just stronger...probably has different gearing like the rear end. I think the rear end is limited slip.....Sonic Rat had the same thing before his GXL was totalled.

Last edited by Mobius; 04-16-04 at 05:29 PM.
Old 04-17-04, 05:16 AM
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I did happen to change the thermo sensor, but the ecu still was throwing the sensor was bad. maybe with the relay being bad from the fuel system could be causing the afm to whack out. Alternator tested out fine. Im gonna see about the the TPS. Either way the car is still cool as hell, not bad for like 700 dollars, I think I've only spent like 1500 total including the price of the car. Cannot bitch about that at all. When i get it done I'll try to post some pics. Mobius, your awsome maybe when I visit my father up in CO, ill buy you a drink or two. Thanks again
Old 04-17-04, 05:17 AM
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Oh yeah the rear-end is a limited slip, the fun is yet to come
Old 04-17-04, 04:16 PM
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alright when testing the AFM, with it out of the car i am getting no continuity with the door closed or open, with it in the car and power is on im getting 12v. Here is the craziest thing when im cranking the car long enough the power from the two left side terminals drop to zero, absolutely no power at all! I tested the circuit opening relay and everything tested out just fine no problems there. Wayne i know you suggested the afm could have a prob, what do you make of it with what i did write here, any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
Old 04-17-04, 04:42 PM
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alright here is an update..
I jumpered the wire for the fuel check connector and the thing does run on the factory wires original plugs and all running out of time today but im going to try cleaning the connector if no luck on the cleaning then im going to replace the afm. I decided to use the search to find some kinda write up on the afm and nz help some one with the same prob and it did help me. the thing still has a bad throttle response. I give it gas and it bogs down, push the throttle half way and it goes up, goes down etc.. One thing i did try to do is unplug the bac valve and there was no differance when i did do that, what could cause the erractic acceleration or throttle?
Old 04-17-04, 05:42 PM
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Not sure about the throttle problem....And I don't know much about testing the afm other than you could take it out and take it to a mazda dealer and have them test it.

My Haynes manual said that there's no way to test it, except through Mazda or whoever. I think maybe you need a computer to diagnose.

Well at lest it has strarted../..

yeah if you come down to CO, throw me down a PM.
Old 04-18-04, 06:20 AM
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I thought about going to the dealer to see if some of theings work but testing at the dealer is so exspensive, kinda not woroth it in a way. The throttle thing, in the back of my head I keep thinking throttle sensor, but it seems the sensor actually only affect the engine maybe a 1/4 of the throttle. Hey maybe the afm is just bad all around. maybe it just could be an intake leak something simple like that, I did notice the afm gasket on the air box has a good chunk missing from it. i dont know ill figure it out eventually.
Well the weirdest thing is that is almost runs perfect when i let it warm up for like a good 30 min or so of idleing, I even drove around the block and felt the 3800 hesitation everyone talks about, very noticeable.
I don't know when im going but it may be soon, I may move down there, step mother started a business and wanted me to help her run, alot to think about. Let me know what it is like up there cause I hate Arizona.
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