santorkyle

Ignorance is bliss

santorkyle

And thank you SATCH for all the help so far buddy, I'll update you on the voltage at the ECU here with in the hour.

santorkyle

So I tested it cold it is 2.17V and I let it warm up, and it is .57V, so I believe that is with in your spec's. Let me help you out SATCH with my mod's and maybe that will help us.

J-spec engine, full racing beat turbo back exhaust, a re-chipped N332(unknown who chipped it, bought it that way), I deleted all emissions and rats nest, did new NGK wires and plugs factory replacements, it has 800cc secondary and 550 primary injectors, walboro 255. I have gone threw all my grounds and made sure connection is good but I do know I need to re-wire the fuel pump and the battery ground due to corrosion on the ground cable and the fuel pump I can hear change pitch when I turn the headlights on or hit the brakes or turn the blinker on. But if I drive the car until it starts messing up I can not hit boost over 3-4k and can not free rev over 5 but if I sit at a stop light and try to free rev when it starts messing up some times I can't free rev over 2200 RPM.

If you have any more idea's other then to change to a stand alone let me know, thanks.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If I'm familiar w/anything it would be related to stock setups as opposed to cars like yourself which is modified so I'm not really sure if your injectors are of the proper sizing as it relates to your ECU, for example.

Another item you can check is your Boost Sensor and make sure the vacuum hose is plumbed to the correct source. It almost sounds as if the Boost Sensor is not getting the proper vacuum source when the engine is warmed up but does get the proper vacuum while the engine is cold.

And when the car is placed under load the engine will idle and sound a bit differently as this is normal.

There is also a temp sensor inside the AFM which could also be at fault. Pin 2J (Green/Orange) of the ECU should read 2 to 3 volts with the air temp at 68 F and key to on. As the air temp changes so does the voltage reading but you'll have to search for that info (might be in the FSM).

And make sure the Green/Red wire of the TPS is set to 1 volt w/key to on and engine fully warmed.

Lastly, the AFM might still be contributing to your problem.

santorkyle

Well I know that the temp sensor section of the AFM is out of spec because when I OHMed it out when I first got the car i want to say at the time it was at 1950OHMs and the current temp outside the sensor should have been at 700OHMs so I do know that is a issue, and I set the TPS to 1 volt and set the timint with a light earlier and have the idle at about 950rpm because if it is lower then that (modified throttle body) it doesn't sound right and response is slow, but so far satch everything you have helped with is awesome, maybe we are at a stand still being I have a lot of modifications now, but I will check the ECU readings with the car cold and warm and let you know my friend.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The temp sensor in the AFM is replaceable and you indicate that yours is out of spec so it needs to be replaced. It is important that this sensor is in working order.

santorkyle

How and where would I get a sensor to replace the one inside the AFM, only option I know of is to replace the whole thing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Mazdatrix or a dealership would have them for example as well as the parts for sale section/forum or perhaps finding a used AFM would be cheaper.

santorkyle

So I ran new grounds in the harness that ground the ECU on the block and so far it seems to be running a lot better, but I am going to buy a wideband and a boost gauge next week for it before I drive it much more, and I'll see what I can do about the AFM rightnow.

santorkyle

So...I just realized my AFM sais N326 on it...If I am not mistaken, that is for a NON TURBO FC........

satch

iTrader: (1)

So you need to source a replacement AFM regardless of the sensor problem because you are correct in that you currently have a non turb AFM in your car.

There are stickers on the ECU that give the part code.

N326 - 86-87 NA
N332 - 87 Turbo
N327 - 88 NA
N333 - 88 Turbo
N338 - 88 Vert
N350 - 89 NA California
N351 - 89 NA
N352 - 89 Vert California
N353 - 89 Vert
N370 - 89 Turbo
__________________

santorkyle

Yea I have a N332 ecu, I looked up the correct AFM part number for a turbo is 318 13 210 , now I just need to find someone that has one. A few members on the forum said they have been running a non turbo one and just see a little bit higher a/f readings at around 14.2 at idle and around 12 in boost.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

You need the proper AFM, otherwise you are just going to continue having problems. Also, you mentioned you had a Jspec Engine yet you are running the US ECU, IIRC there are known issues with that match-up sometimes. Not every time, but sometimes... You may want to look into that as well if switching the AFM doesn't solve your issues.

santorkyle

I was thinking about that as well with the Jspec engine swap, and the kid I bought it from had the ECU chipped but I don't know who did it or what was done to the fuel map, all I know is the sticker on the said " MAZDA FC3S 13bt 0385.SPL " if anyone knows what that means, and yes guys I am trying to find the correct 318 13 210 AFM for my car as we speak to rule that out, I am trying to avoid going stand alone right this second because the fund's are not there yet, I am trying to save the money for a down payment on a house lol.