Ok.. Everytime I start on a cold engine, IT will drive fine, then the temp needle will be all the way up... for about 10 seconds. Then just drop. to a hair above normal. Also I noticed the add coolent buzzer comes on once and a while and the coolent jug thing is full.. So I'm thinking its something to do with the radiator.. Or some sencor. Cant tell. Sorry I dont know all of the proper terms. But hopefully you know what I'm talking about. thanks

 

is the overflow bottle full, or also the other thing (the rad cap) ??
I don't know for sure how it works, but I think Ive read somewhere that this one guy car trew liquid into the overflow, but didn't pull it back.. so U better fill it to the rad cap just to be sure

 

Oh Jesus....... Check the connection on the water temp sender, it's probably loose. Replace BOTH the radiator cap and thermostat with MAZDA brand parts. Do a search for "blown coolant seal" Sadly, you've probably lost your engine.

 

I don't even own a car yet... but it might just be a bad water temp sensor, right? it doesn't mean that he blew a coolant seal.. I think..
go fill it up to the cap, check the water temp sensor... and go and run the car.., se if it starts good with no white smoke clowd behind it

 

Change out your thermostat with a Mazda oem one. My car's temp guage would go up a bit over half, then quickly drop back down to normal and replacing the thermostat cured the problem.

 

Either that or there isn't enough coolant in the motor. That would cause the described condition.

 

Ya sounds like thermostat is sticking remove the elbow between water pump and top radiator hose and change it !

 

the guys are right about the thermostat. if after you replace it and it's stil doing the same thing, you will have to bleed the cooling system. my beemer did that when there wasn't enough water in the system. the way i did my beemer was turn the heat up to full blast (this will ensure all the air, even in the heating system gets bled out) and fire the ride up. once it starts to get warm you can open the bleed screw and it will start dumping the air. at the same time you can add coolant to replace the air. hope this works for you. there might be another trick for rx's but that's how I have seen mechs do it. You might also want to maybe drill a few holes in the thermostat and it will bleed itself.

 

It's a closed system, turning on the heater won't remove the air. The bleeder screw is the way to go.