car has some starting problem
car has some starting problem
Hello,
Just now I have encountered some problem trying to start my car.
I drove my car for around 20mins freeway, then parked for about 30mins and i had a hard time to start the engine.
i tried to start the engine as usual (clutch in, turn key), it turns but just failed to pick up and died off. Symptom is the rpm wouldn't go above 1k and then died for couple of times.
i then pressed the gas pedal and gave gas while turning and the engine finally fired up. (I did this step for 3 times before the engine fired up)
While driving there was no problem at all, idle is normal (about 800rpm)
Any thoughts? what is possibly causing the problem? could it be a bad fuelpump?
Thanks in advance.
ps: Car is a 88 turbo complete stock besides an aftermarket BOV. All spark plugs and plugs wire were changed 1k miles ago.
Just now I have encountered some problem trying to start my car.
I drove my car for around 20mins freeway, then parked for about 30mins and i had a hard time to start the engine.
i tried to start the engine as usual (clutch in, turn key), it turns but just failed to pick up and died off. Symptom is the rpm wouldn't go above 1k and then died for couple of times.
i then pressed the gas pedal and gave gas while turning and the engine finally fired up. (I did this step for 3 times before the engine fired up)
While driving there was no problem at all, idle is normal (about 800rpm)
Any thoughts? what is possibly causing the problem? could it be a bad fuelpump?
Thanks in advance.
ps: Car is a 88 turbo complete stock besides an aftermarket BOV. All spark plugs and plugs wire were changed 1k miles ago.
Sounds like a flooded engine.
Possible Culprits are
1. Leaky Fuel Injectors
2. Low Compression
3. Both
Solutions
1. Get Leaky Injectors Sonically Cleaned.
2. Install a Fuel Cut Switch
3. Wait until motor is gone and rebuild.
Quick Fix
1. Pull the fuel fuse in the engine, crank a bit, replace fuse,start car
2. If 1 doesn't work a few times, push start
Possible Culprits are
1. Leaky Fuel Injectors
2. Low Compression
3. Both
Solutions
1. Get Leaky Injectors Sonically Cleaned.
2. Install a Fuel Cut Switch
3. Wait until motor is gone and rebuild.
Quick Fix
1. Pull the fuel fuse in the engine, crank a bit, replace fuse,start car
2. If 1 doesn't work a few times, push start
Sounds like a flooded engine.
Possible Culprits are
1. Leaky Fuel Injectors
2. Low Compression
3. Both
Solutions
1. Get Leaky Injectors Sonically Cleaned.
2. Install a Fuel Cut Switch
3. Wait until motor is gone and rebuild.
Quick Fix
1. Pull the fuel fuse in the engine, crank a bit, replace fuse,start car
2. If 1 doesn't work a few times, push start
Possible Culprits are
1. Leaky Fuel Injectors
2. Low Compression
3. Both
Solutions
1. Get Leaky Injectors Sonically Cleaned.
2. Install a Fuel Cut Switch
3. Wait until motor is gone and rebuild.
Quick Fix
1. Pull the fuel fuse in the engine, crank a bit, replace fuse,start car
2. If 1 doesn't work a few times, push start
"This switch is mandatory for any modifications that will be increasing boost. The computer is pre-programmed for shut down of fuel to the rear rotor at a boost of 8.6 PSI. The fuel cut out switch tells the computer that the boost is lower than it actually is. " -> from mazdatrix fuel cut off switch desciption.
thanks
but I thought fuel cut switch is for people who want to run higher boost? how does it solve flooding?
"This switch is mandatory for any modifications that will be increasing boost. The computer is pre-programmed for shut down of fuel to the rear rotor at a boost of 8.6 PSI. The fuel cut out switch tells the computer that the boost is lower than it actually is. " -> from mazdatrix fuel cut off switch desciption.
thanks
"This switch is mandatory for any modifications that will be increasing boost. The computer is pre-programmed for shut down of fuel to the rear rotor at a boost of 8.6 PSI. The fuel cut out switch tells the computer that the boost is lower than it actually is. " -> from mazdatrix fuel cut off switch desciption.
thanks
Too much boost will cut the fuel to the engine. That is what the Mazdatrix part you are posting about does.... prevents the boost cut.
A fuel cut switch cuts the fuel pump when starting on engines that have poor compression.
You are confusing a Fuel cut switch with the boost cut sensor.
Too much boost will cut the fuel to the engine. That is what the Mazdatrix part you are posting about does.... prevents the boost cut.
A fuel cut switch cuts the fuel pump when starting on engines that have poor compression.
Too much boost will cut the fuel to the engine. That is what the Mazdatrix part you are posting about does.... prevents the boost cut.
A fuel cut switch cuts the fuel pump when starting on engines that have poor compression.
Sounds like a flooded engine.
Possible Culprits are
1. Leaky Fuel Injectors
2. Low Compression
3. Both
Solutions
1. Get Leaky Injectors Sonically Cleaned.
2. Install a Fuel Cut Switch
3. Wait until motor is gone and rebuild.
Quick Fix
1. Pull the fuel fuse in the engine, crank a bit, replace fuse,start car
2. If 1 doesn't work a few times, push start
Possible Culprits are
1. Leaky Fuel Injectors
2. Low Compression
3. Both
Solutions
1. Get Leaky Injectors Sonically Cleaned.
2. Install a Fuel Cut Switch
3. Wait until motor is gone and rebuild.
Quick Fix
1. Pull the fuel fuse in the engine, crank a bit, replace fuse,start car
2. If 1 doesn't work a few times, push start
Trending Topics
1. You have to make your own cutoff switch. I think (although am not positive...search) that you rewire the fuel pump power line through a switch. Then you can mount that near the driver area.
2. I think its the EGI fuse, its called two different things in S4/S5 so I can't tell you for certain. I can tell you its none of the others that don't make any sense.
2. I think its the EGI fuse, its called two different things in S4/S5 so I can't tell you for certain. I can tell you its none of the others that don't make any sense.
1. You have to make your own cutoff switch. I think (although am not positive...search) that you rewire the fuel pump power line through a switch. Then you can mount that near the driver area.
2. I think its the EGI fuse, its called two different things in S4/S5 so I can't tell you for certain. I can tell you its none of the others that don't make any sense.
2. I think its the EGI fuse, its called two different things in S4/S5 so I can't tell you for certain. I can tell you its none of the others that don't make any sense.
So basically with the "home made" switch what I want to do is to switch off the power to the fuel pump after I shutoff the engine to prevent any fuel leak?
Or I only switch off the fuel pump while I m having hardtime doing a hot start?
Sorry I m still learning, hence the question...........
Thanks for the info.
So basically with the "home made" switch what I want to do is to switch off the power to the fuel pump after I shutoff the engine to prevent any fuel leak?
Or I only switch off the fuel pump while I m having hardtime doing a hot start?
Sorry I m still learning, hence the question...........
So basically with the "home made" switch what I want to do is to switch off the power to the fuel pump after I shutoff the engine to prevent any fuel leak?
Or I only switch off the fuel pump while I m having hardtime doing a hot start?
Sorry I m still learning, hence the question...........
You will want to shutoff your car by cutting the fuel pump and then turning the key. The idea is to use up all the fuel that would have leaked into the motor.
You can do this at all times to turn off the car, it then doubles as an anti-theft device.
Remember that low compression, according to AaronCake, increases a flooding chance by 1000x, eventually this will cancel out your fuel cut off switch. Check your compression, if that checks out then it's probably your injectors.
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