Car floods on startup unless throttle is fully open
#1
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Car floods on startup unless throttle is fully open
Let me give you some background on my situation. A few weeks ago while tackling a very large hill I felt an odd vibration. After getting home, the car sat for a few days. When I finally tried to start it up again, I had a very tough time. The car would flood out everytime I tried to start it. After starting the car, the idle was weak and felt like it wanted to stall. I eventually found that one of my spark plugs electrodes had snapped off. I corrected the problem plug but now I'm still having starting difficulties.
The car feels great on the highway, I can detect no loss of power. However, when I try to start the car, she will flood if I don't hold down the gas pedal. When the car does start, the idle is very weak. She idles where she should at about 850 but there is a definite miss or something, she is very close to stalling. Where would you guys look first? BTW, I am not pulling any codes and this is new, she used to start with a flick of the key.
The car feels great on the highway, I can detect no loss of power. However, when I try to start the car, she will flood if I don't hold down the gas pedal. When the car does start, the idle is very weak. She idles where she should at about 850 but there is a definite miss or something, she is very close to stalling. Where would you guys look first? BTW, I am not pulling any codes and this is new, she used to start with a flick of the key.
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: freeport, Maine
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The same thing happened to both my fc's and i figured out it just needs less fuel on start up. so i found my ground for the fuel pump and put a toggle for it. basicly i turn the switch off while turning over with my foot off the pedal. then when she fires like normaly i flick the switch and she runs.
if u need the wire and your thinking of doing it its the black wire with the white stripe.
and if u need details to find it and splicing the switch in you can get my AIM
if u need the wire and your thinking of doing it its the black wire with the white stripe.
and if u need details to find it and splicing the switch in you can get my AIM
#3
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It's more than just that though. The car will hold an idle at the appropriate level but it sounds like I have a miss. It wants to stall out if I let my foot off the throttle too quickly. At low RPMs the car has a subaru type sound and some reduction of power but after about 3k, she hums like normal. What are the symptoms of a bad primary injector? What are the symptoms of a bad coil?
#5
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I had a bad primary injector once, and the car ran somewhat like what you're describing. Ran real shitty in the low rpms, then suddenly when I got above 3000 it improved significantly. You can check the resistence of your primaries. I don't know what the specs are though.
Rob
Rob
#7
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I have checked the tps a few times but never with an analog, i'll check it with one of those just in case. As far as checking the injectors, would they show a different resistance if they were bad? I know I put in low impedence injectors so they are 2-3 ohms i believe. What would they show as if I had a bad one
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#9
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Don't quote me on this, but I think the resistence goes down as the injector wears out. So, you would get closer to no impedience. I could be wrong in that, but if you look in the FSM, you'll find specs for the injectors and some reference about them being under that spec, etc then thow out.
#10
Keep Right Except to Pass
I eventually found that one of my spark plugs electrodes had snapped off.
I would test compression first and foremost if I were you.
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