Ok so this has been an ongoing problem since we got this car a few months ago. When the car is warmed up it will not idle, it starts to slowing run really rough untill it finally dies. It will not stay on or idle at all when its warmed up.
This is what weve done so far;
We removed and cleaned the bac valve, checked it with a multimeter to within spec, its fine. We connected it to a 12v and it clicks so that is fine.
Next we checked the TPS and set to within specs, it was fine the readings were all to within spec.
We checked for vaccum leaks, found none and also sprayed carb cleaner all over the place to see if we noticed a change in the idle and nothing still dies.
My only other idea at this point is the fuel system. The car has been having horrible fuel economy and i kinda suspect the injectors might be messed up but not sure.
I simply would like your opinions on what to check next, im really lost now. THe haynes gives about 27 diffrent things to check when having this problem so rather than doing that i figured id ask you guys.
Oh yeah and my friend is out in the car right trying to intstall a engine management system its an F-CON and im trying to tell him this is a bad idea untill we get the car working properly i wouldent go installing freekin engine maneg system just yet. So help us out please guys!!
Thanks

 

try using starting fluid instead, it seems to work better in my experience, prolly casue its a little thinner. and have you checked you water thermo sensor on the bottom of the rad?

 

ok cool so what kind of starting fluid? Like a brand name or somthin and no we havent checked the water thermo sensor at the bottom of the rad, well try that also

 

BUMP!!

 

Have you checked the throttle stops? Idle/Air mix?

 

oh yeh when the lights are on the are very dim. and when i rev it a little they get brighter and same goes for gauge cluster. i also get a 1.5 rpm bounce when i rev it at 1.5rpm and keep it there it starts bounce to 1.5 to 1.6 six keeps doin that till i let it go. thanks for all the help guys! keep it comin! oh yeh and by the way the lights are h4's 100watts.

 

J-rat what is this? I dont know what your talking about please more info...

 

I will bet you a dollar to a donut that your motor had low compression. let me know more details on your car! I had a 90' gtu that would do the exact same thing and it turned out to be the motor was low on compression.

 

I second that. Get a compression test done, and if that checks out, start looking at the BAC valve, cold start system, and the injectors. Injectors can stick sometimes, which will result in exactly the symptoms of an engine with low compression or that has been blown.

 

wouldnt a blown engine mean a cant go fast. my car is very fast. lol. damn i think ill die if i got low compression. damn this sux.

 

oh and should a minor crack on the turbine side of the intake tubey thing to turbo(lol alway forget the name of that thing) be a bad thing. that might be it, right! also do any of u guys know whats a good sealant for a air hose. temporary of course.

 

If you have a crack in your intake tract, I would start there. That is probably the cause of your problems. TIIs are very sensitive to vacuum leaks.

And yes, a blown engine can run perfectly fine and still be blown.

 

ok thanks alot guys. u guys helped alot if anything else comes up dont mind postin, lol. first thing tommorow morning check the 7 out once agian in the freezin temps with snow all over. thanks!

 

On the TII, its a screw located under the intercooler. by the drivers side firewall of the TB.

 

oh yeh tell me if u guys think this is normal. the throttle pedal is much lower than the gas and clutch pedal. and when i floor it it hits the floor. thats normal right? lol. im just throwin ideas out so u guys got all the info. could that have anything to do with idle prob. or is that just normal?

 

That last line, about blown engines running fine, was a joke right?????

 

No joke.

 

Mine ran very well when it was blown!
It had a sick idle, though.

 

Ok thanks guys for the help. Were actually going to take the car to BPR motorsports in salem there kinda shady only becuase we went to see the plave and it was a door, but hey you never know. We'll ask em to check comression and i hope to god that its not a blown engine.

 

ok i got more clues to help me out on me delema. ok i kinda fixed the the cracked intake tube that connects to the turbo. i fired her up and its actually holding idle but its rough, it idles from 500-300 way below the thick yellow line. also when the idle goes down real low u can hear a screaching noise kinda like squeking brakes, think its coming from the air pump.. also when i turn on the AC it makes this wierd *** clicking noise and just stalls.

 

oh and i filled up the subzero tank with antifreeze it was hella low.

 

Remove the whole cold start fluid system. Mazda issued a TSB informing all dealers to do so.

Now you need to start from scratch. Adjust TPS, idle screw, etc.

 

The fact that your lights are dim could indicate problems with the alternator/charging system too... TII's don't have voltage gauges, do they?

 

nope no volt meter. right after i posted i was gonna re adjust the tps. right after this one for sure. lol. thanks aaron. so cold!

 

welp i was thinking the dimming of the lights is that there 100watt h4's instead of the stock 50watt halo's.