londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

hey, hopefully someone can help.


I was on my way to work this morning, merged over into traffic and then out of no where the tac dropped to 0 and the car died... obviously wont start again. the tac does not bump even a little bit when turning over, so I believe it is ignition related.

EGI fuse is good, I changed it out with the retractor fuse just to make sure. I don't think it is getting fuel either... any help/guidance would be great. I work as an apprentice at a shop, so anything I need to do is doable.

thanks!

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Does the engine crank when you turn the key? If you haven't already, check the fuses under your drivers side kick panel too.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

have you inspected all of the fuses in the block under the hood? usually when the engine cranks and the tach does not move, its a sign that the 30A EGI COMP fuse has blown

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

i figured out what happened earlier today, the 10 amp "engine" fuse in the kick panel had blown, now it randomly blows over bumps and stuff. any common wires that short out on this circuit?

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

The "10 amp engine fuse" should actually be a 15 amp (according to the '88 wire diagram at least). Otherwise, as best i could tel from a quick look at the wire diagram that circut goes to the ECU, and a couple relays. I would try the proper fuse first and if it is still blowing look for some melted wireing around the ECU and relays. If you have the time it wouldn't be a bad idea to look at the wireing anyway since it only blows when you hit a bump, but it could just be too weak a fuse.

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

I put a 20 in, same difference.

It doesn't just blow over bumps, it blows when i put it in now which is a good thing because i can find a constant short a helluva lot easier than a intermitten short.

thanks craiger.

anyone else ever have something like this? maybe a common short out spot?

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

so... turns out the live alternator wire was shorting out on the intercooler. I've now made it so that doesn't happen. anyone think this could possibly cause this problem?


it hasn't died yet.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

The intercooler is grounded and IIRC one of the wires going to the alternator was on that circut so you probably found your problem.

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

wicked.. so happy it isn't a gross issue under the dash.

I also found a pesky vacuum leak while fixing the issue tonight! yay for killing two birds with one stone.

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

okay so i guess that wasn't the problem because it did it just now at lunch time.

it kept blowing them the second i would engage the starter, it wouldn't blow with the ignition in the ON position but as soon as id start it, tac would bump, pressure gauge would move, then click and fuse blew.


I just had a gut feeling about the racing beat fuel cut defensor doing this, no idea why i just did, so i removed it all together and plugged it in like factory and it hasnt blown, although ive only driven it from one side of my work to the other. but before removing that it wouldnt even start.

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

You could have a starter wire that is shorting to ground somewhere.

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

any reasoning behind such a thing?


its still blowing fuses, i left it at my work. I wish I knew what the issue was, im pulling my hair out.

can anyone list possible reasons the 15amp engine fuse would blow? aside from a wire shorting out? bad ecu? bad sensor?

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

At this point I think you should start looking for some melted wiring around one of the plugs on that fuse. That circut goes to a number of places in the car, including the ECU. I bet one of the plugs was making a bad connection causing resistance and eventually melting one of the plugs.

Out of curiousity, there isn't any kind of aftermarket alarm or other electrical device in the car is there?

Time to get out the multimeter and go searching.

Good luck.

londonmazda

iTrader: (2)

just a CD player... and a racing beat FCD.