car is dead!!
car is dead!!
alrighty give me some ideas before i start tearing into her! ran fine all day, parked it came back out 20 minutes later started fine, drove fine for about 5 minutes then it would not idle but ran fine on the top end, then i looked down it was trying to idle hold the gas at 2k and the egt spiked to 1000c would try to idle at 800c now it sounds like it just running on one rotor all fubared sounding, i am leaning towards the plugs or my injectors. gimme some input so i can do as much as i can before i throw the towel in! lol!
yeah that was my first plan to go with the ghetto compression check,clean up the plugs and see what happens. why would the egt go so high though if the plugs were fouled you would think it would run rich right? i also have a resistor changing the low to high or low forget which way it goes but if that **** out would the injectors not work and run lean?
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well, look at the basics first. Compression, fuel, and spark/timing. My black car was running a setup similar to yours (except a streetport, no bridge) and it was crazy fast on the top end. Spent an entire weekend trying to get it to idle and basically wasted a ton of time replaceing everything on a blown motor. Really sucked. I learned my lesson tho, now matter how you think ya know, start out with the basics!! I hope everything works out for ya bro.
damn i only have 2100km on this motor too! oh well the rebuild will be free! yeah i just don't understand how it would just go like that. the last time i knew it blew this time i think it is something easy.
CR: Compression Ratio 
Having a torn or split fuel line will cause only the corresponding injector to spill, so only 1/2 of the fuel supply for this rotor will be not what it should be. You could lean out, but only high on the RPMs...
On the other hand, a vacuum leak will cause all kinds of trouble.
cymfc3s got it right: start with the basics. Visual inspection of EVERY line, do the ghetto CR check, get a can of CC to find any leaks, and take it from there. Wouldnt hurt to have a multimeter to check a couple of voltages from and to the ECU and various electric/electronic parts of the FC...

Having a torn or split fuel line will cause only the corresponding injector to spill, so only 1/2 of the fuel supply for this rotor will be not what it should be. You could lean out, but only high on the RPMs...
On the other hand, a vacuum leak will cause all kinds of trouble.
cymfc3s got it right: start with the basics. Visual inspection of EVERY line, do the ghetto CR check, get a can of CC to find any leaks, and take it from there. Wouldnt hurt to have a multimeter to check a couple of voltages from and to the ECU and various electric/electronic parts of the FC...
well i did a pretty detailed visual inspection and there is definitly no fuel or wet areas, vacuum leak possible but i haven't ran anything over .80 boost all day so not to sure if that has any bearing on anything, in other words i wasn't ******* it all day, as for compression check i never had one the thing is pretty much brand new like i said about 2100km's, thanks for all the ideas so far
Originally posted by soul assassin
ahh never knew you could run high egt's while runing rich
ahh never knew you could run high egt's while runing rich
I just read a post where you said this was your first rebuild. I'm "guessing" that since your first try was a bridgeport with 550 horses that you may need to use that knowledge once again. I'm kinda curious as to how you can rebuild for free? I hope you find some easy way to fix it; but that just never seems to happen. Oh well, might as well just put in a 20B now. Your car on one rotor is still probably faster than most of the cars on here. hehehe
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,383
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From: Stinson Beach, Ca
Originally posted by vosko
that's it. don't bother with it. just send your car to me
that's it. don't bother with it. just send your car to me
Turboren comes to mind
allrighty she is back up and purring! compression is good! the greddy resistor block that changes teh resistance for the injectors over heated and shutdown,hence causing the lean condition! to bad it snowed today or i would be out romping on!
Originally posted by soul assassin
allrighty she is back up and purring! compression is good! the greddy resistor block that changes teh resistance for the injectors over heated and shutdown,hence causing the lean condition! to bad it snowed today or i would be out romping on!
allrighty she is back up and purring! compression is good! the greddy resistor block that changes teh resistance for the injectors over heated and shutdown,hence causing the lean condition! to bad it snowed today or i would be out romping on!



