SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Generally, if they're not totally screwed to begin with, this will clean them pretty well. Obviously not better than a professional cleaning, but I've had great results with cars that wouldn't even rev up in neutral with this, and they've put another 50+k on the engines since then with no issues. So, it works pretty good if the injectors still function somewhat. And it's definatly easier than removing the injectors/sending them out/etc.

alwayssideways

sonic rat i pull a little under 9 at idle and it pulls about 12 under heavy throttle. its hard to see cuz i have the dmm in the rear of the car when i drive up the street .. good thing my street is a dead end . hehehe i should be pulling even more that 12 volts ??

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Well, that should be OK. I guess it's time to run some extra grounds and hope for the best.

fusion-turbo

Is this problem effected by your engine temp? Mine will do the same thing only when its cold, i have to hold on the throttle when its cold to keep it from stalling, and if i try to rev it up it will just hesitate on me and not go anywhere. Then when my car is drivable, i will go through a series of hesitations, they almost feel like "hitting a rev limiter" is this what you're feeling?

Kenteth

I've got some mean surging that I feel sometimes. I suppose its mild, but happens when im crusing. You can feel a kick of some extra HP and then a couple seconds later the same loss. It usually only happens when at a constant pedal. I assume TPS, but its been adjusted time and time again with a multimeter. No spikes from the analog one, and seems fine with the digital.

Not to thread jack or anything, but the issue may be related...

Kenteth

I've got some mean surging that I feel sometimes. I suppose its mild, but happens when im crusing. You can feel a kick of some extra HP and then a couple seconds later the same loss. It usually only happens when at a constant pedal. I assume TPS, but its been adjusted time and time again with a multimeter. No spikes from the analog one, and seems fine with the digital.

Not to thread jack or anything, but the issue may be related...

fusion-turbo

Keneth, mine is the opposite of what you're experiencing. I will be cruising, and out of the blue ill feel an instant loss of all power (rev limiter), then itll kick back in and jerk the car. It gets very bad if it happens while accelerating, when it kicks back in it'll break the tires loose and sometimes kick out the whole rear of the car.

Yes sorry to thread jack, but its a very odd problem because the turbo boost still continues to climb but engine rpms dont, then all the sudden BAM its like i dumped the clutch. Im not sure if this is what *alwayssideways* is experencing

Kenteth

although-- I did have a similiar issue back when I had the auto tranny... (damn) that blew so bad. Drivign along, and everything just cuts out... comes back a second later... I hated that so bad.

Turns out I had some wiring issues witht he fuel pump relay, the wire was shorting out causing the fuel pump to shut off, when the car bucked, the wire would un..short and I'd get fuel again. It took about 3 weeks to diagnose that one.

Last week my car wouldn't start. Turns out I had another short, this time at the fuel pump harness (where the wiring clips into the fuel pump.) That took 3 hours to diagnose, compared to the three weeks of unreliable driving I had before.

alwayssideways

well get this .. I took the car to work today ,,, im about 20 mins away. well it bucked only if i go so far on the throttle. like a little under half way . well its getting a little better ,, anyway .. i got to work and i checked out the voltage gauge. it read only 12 volts. I was like great im going to need a alternator. well at break time i pulled out my dmm and checked it .. i started the car looked at the gauge. only 12 volts. but then i looked at the alternator .. the belts was chewed up and it fell off the pully. well luckly once again i just bought a new belt the day before and was going to install it this weekend. well i put it on. it squealed like crazy.. i loosened it , tightened it . it was still squealing. well i got out the old pry bar and put a decent tension on the alt and tightened it up . squeal gone. i reved it up to see if it would slip at high rpms. it didnt but i realized that it reved up to like 7g's no problem. i was like whoa maybe the belt was slipping all this time and thats why i wasnt getting all the volts i needed. not to mention the pump was cutting out after about 4.5 g's . so at lunch i drove it around and it was bucking again. dissapointed i just whipped it around and the engine seemed to be running smoother. but still bucking. i pulled into the building next to mine cuz my radio had shut off for no reason. ( i think that the fuse panel wont hold fuses right .. they slide out easily) well anyway ,, all of a sudden i reved it up .. no bogging or bucking.. i drove it to about 5 g''s no bucking . i raced up and down the street . no bucking .. i couldnt explain it but it was moving like a bat out of hell and i loved it . i wasnt going to complain.. so i parked it feeling that the injector unclogged it self or something . but i get in the car to leave tonight and once again the car is bucking.. is there any fuse in the panel by the dead pedal that would cause something like this ??

Kenteth

A small short could cause the radio to go... stupid shorts have been causing fuel problems in my car fow awhile not, its quite frustrating. I'm sure you've checked a few times again, but check agian for vac leaks.

If theres anythign residual in your fuel tank, a few hours will settle it down into the fuel pump pickup.

I can't remember, but you did change your fuel filter right?

----
It sounds kinda like a TPS issue when you say it happens at x throttle occasionaly. Get an analog multimeter (kind with the needle) and check resistance on the TPS. It should be a very clean and steady climb. If it jumps at all, your TPS is dirty... and probably scrapable (not much a way to clean them.)
Its hard to see if the TPS resistance is jumping on a digital multimeter btw, use analog.

On another note, is it possible that a secondary fuel injector is getting stuck open?

This would mean that right after you hit 3800, the fuel injector would inject once, and stay open for whatever reason until it choked itself back below 3800 to shut the primaries back off... Even then, im not sure why the injector would close and go back to normal though.

I'd say by a used set of injectors and get them cleaned at RC (think that was the place) and then replace your old ones with the used cleaned and balanced ones (then of course sell your old ones...)

alwayssideways

kenneth
yeah i changed the fuel filter and i cleaned the whole tank.. like had it out of the car and flushed it several times. The car is wierd . like to today i went to take it to walmart to get some stuff. and the car ran like a champ. after about 10 minutes of driving it started acting up again. I checked the resistor that i relocated to the trunk during the FP relay. and its hot as hell. I did some grounding as well and it didnt make a bit of difference. I grounded from the alt bolt to the strut tower and the battery to the strut tower. nothing really helped . before i grounded the idle was at about 1000 ,,. now its about 500. this is wierd . the car acts how it wants when it wants. ill try the and see if i can locate some injectors

Kenteth

Expect to pay ~$60 for injectors and around ~70-100 to get them cleaned and balancd, a local shop could do them, but I think RC charges 25/per injector.

The grounds will only do some help until you start grounding significant pins on wire harnesses or reground stock grounds.

the relay *SHOULD not* be that hot... It may have some excessive relay chatter, or amperage running through it thats causing it to over heat. It would take at least 40amps to even come close to overeheating it though... Our little fuel pumps I doub't take more than 10-20amps... if that.

I question that relay... though if its running 9 volts (stepped from the resistor pack) then the amps will be higher to run the pump until the volts kick back up to 12-13. Even so... that shouldn't be enough to over heat it. If that did happen, thats a 25% amp increase, but even at 20 amps, that only raises teh draw by 5 amps.

Check the ground on that relay, if its insiginificant enough (it could be a bloody small ground and still work to switch the relay), it could overheat the coil in the relay. But that would have to be a pretty small wire..., switching the relay only pulls like.. at most 2 amps, which is like...16-18ga wire for 3-4 feet.

How is your pump grounded? Stock wiring or is it grounded elsewhere? what size of wire are you running to the pump relay?

All that said... I'm still wondering if this is even a fuel related issue, and instead not TPS or a vac leak..

alwayssideways

well i followed the how to on the 1300cc website. i grounded the relay i bought with 18 gauge wire. and i grounded the fuel pump i think wirh 12-16 gauge wire. ill have to check again. yeah the resistor i can barely touch it. , i figiured that it wasnt ground 100 percent either.. so i took the wire i think the wire is less than 2 ft long. but i grounded it with a stock ground. it worked fairly well.. today i moved it to another bolt located about 8 inches away on a bolt that wasnt used as a stock ground. so i cleaned it up to bare metal. tried it out and it was worse.. i put it back where i had it before and it was a little better. but I was reading on vaccum leaks like you said i went out and checked and i found this nipple open with no hose on it .. its right near the air tube that comes up from the cat. here is a pic



this is on the passenger side of the engine right underneth the air box tube.

im wondering if this has a hand in my problem

fusion-turbo

That most definately could be your problem, or at least part of it. Get the FSM or a Haynes manual and find the vacuum routing diagram (actually, there might be one right on the underside of your hood) and find where to plug that sucker.

Also, my car does this same deal, i belive it has something to do with the engine temperature. You said after 10 mins of driving it started bucking again, thats what mine does. As soon as i hit N.O.T or start climbing to it, my car will start doin its thing. If my temp goes above NOT it wont do it, untill it cools back down to baout the 1/4 mark on the temp guage, then it will happen again. Just something to keep a look out for, im still diagnosing the problem, and ill post the results if i ever find out!