J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have the rating for it?

The case says 0.47/250

My guess is thats .47 picofarad (a .47 farad would be MUCH bigger) at 250V. I am trying to find it on the wiring diagram.

Reason I ask is, I broke another one. My guess is it helps filter noise from the system (some say it affects the oil pressure gauge, I doubt that..). If I can get the ratings on it, I could probably buy a replacement and make one myself.

Anyone?

Rat

RETed

I think it's microF.
250V would be gigantic; I think it's more like 20VDC?



-Ted

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

You could very well be right, I dont know off hand the correlation between DC rating and size. I am just reading whats on the case.

The cap tester I have at the shop wont tell me what the ratings are, you have to input them to test the cap. And for some reason I cant locate it on the wire tab..

Any ideas?

*edit*

even if I found it, the FSM wont provide me with the specs on it...

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

then I wonder what type is is... dry film, tantalum, etc...

Are we sure its a Capacitor? It kinda looks more like a resistor to me...

Hmmm... I wonder if the Huntron could figure it out.

Kenteth

almost worth archive

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Well, there isnt an answer yet. I just went and tested the one out of my car (with the broke wire) with a multimeter. I get no resistance readings whatsoever. If it was a cap, I should have gotten an initial resistance reading until it charged. IF it was a resistor, well, I should have gotten a reading.

Anyone want to volunteer to test thiers? Mine might be bad.

Icemark

you need a capacitance meter to read it, not a ohm meter.

And its a polar .47uF cap. I tested one myself

Kenteth

sperific!

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Correct me if I am wrong, but shouldnt caps at least test resistance as they are charging?

No matter, do you have a part number for replacement? 47uF at what voltage?

theloudroom

Icemark says it's a .47uF, and if it says 250, it's probably 250V.


It seems weird that he would say it's an electrolytic with those ratings though. The ratings seem much more in line with a poly cap.

Something like the P10628-ND on the first page of this PDF:

http://dkc3.digikey.com/pdf/T041/0805-0806.pdf

Would be what I would replace it with.

Icemark

I would expect it to be poly or ceramic, as the polys and ceramics tend to be less temp sensitive than electrolytic.

Icemark

No, not 47uF!

.47uF

And there would be no resistance on a polar cap. As far as the cap is concerned it is not electrically connected to anything on the other side.

And the voltage is immaterial. Anything over 20 volts is probably fine. The volatge rating on a cap is just for tolerance. A 250 volt rated cap just means that it can handle 250 volts DC before it looses tolerance. A 20volt cap, would be able to go to 20 volts before it looses tolerance.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

So, we are in agreement... Its a .47uF cap at 250v?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

And I meant .47. I am just typing too fast. Calm down big boy...

Hey, I am gonna ship your wiper motor today too.

theloudroom

I misread the PDF.
The part I was referring to was P10528-ND

WAYNE88N/A

is that it on page 50-22 of the FSM wiring manual? between the two coils... I've always wondered what that sucker did also...also in the same circuit as the injectors....

Icemark

Ahhh did I win that from you???? Yeah, I am building a 2nd test bench, for testing wiper switches. The first one used light bulbs, and then I plugged it into my car for final checking. This new one will work motors on a bench, so I don't have to open up my car everytime.

theloudroom

The capacitors are there to supress noise in the electrical system. To high frequency noise, those capacitors look like a short to ground.

WAYNE88N/A

ahhh, hence the reason they're in the same circuit as the coils... thanks, man (learn something new every day)

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, it was me. So I am going to get a .47 uF 250 VDC cap to put in line. I thought it had to do with noise filtering.

Excellent info!

RETed

Normally, it would be like that, but I've been told this particular cap is to dampen pulsation in the oil system.  The oil pump does not output a smooth, continuous feed of oil (pressure).  It comes out in pulses (part of the gerotor design) that can cause the oil pressure gauge to flutter.  The cap in the oil pressure sensor wiring is there to damp the pulses to minimize the fluttering.


-Ted

WAYNE88N/A

O.K., that sounds good,too, although as slow as that gauge moves normally it's hard to picture it "fluttering"...hmmm....back to the FSM wiring....

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

IF it helps, my wire is broke, and the oil gauge doesnt flutter.

WAYNE88N/A

yep, on page 50-40 of the FSM, there's a cap in the oil pressure meter circuit. hmmm....

WAYNE88N/A

J-Rat, with the wire broke, or you getting any more radio noise? Or ignition problems?