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cant get s4 se to start

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Old 12-11-05, 12:47 AM
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turbo probe GT driver

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cant get s4 se to start

ok guys its a 88 SE, with a auto. it had sat for a year because the prevoius onwer was in the navy and out on cruise or something? brand new plugs, was almost emty on gas so i put 5 gallons of fresh gas in it, also did the atf trick. has fuel, spark and decent compresion. i have also done the un-flooding thing several times. it will turn over fine, but just will not fire. i have had a battery charger, jump box and another car to jump start it, so i know it has enough voltage. any ideas on how to get it to fire being a auto? is there anyway to push start it at all? thanks in advance for any help

Last edited by white94pgt; 12-11-05 at 12:51 AM.
Old 12-11-05, 05:31 PM
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i just put in 5 more gallons of fresh gas and it didnt help any, any sugestions?
Old 12-11-05, 05:44 PM
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Pull the lower sparkplugs.

Have someone turn the engine over while you put your finger on one sparkplug hole at a time.

As he rotates the engine you should feel compression puffs coming out of the sparkplug holes trying to blow your finger off the hole.

Do both lower sparkplug holes that way.

The result should be the same for both sparkplug holes. You should NOT feel maybe one puff........then a lag until you feel it puff again.

If one rotor is good and the other bad, you should be able to readily tell if you have a bad rotor by comparing the two.

If they both have constant puffs coming out, then you might try to inject some oil into the rotors, either thru the sparkplug holes or some other means. Remember there are three faces on each rotor so you'l have to inject oil......turn the crank one full turn......inject some more oil............turn one full turn............inject oil again. And do the same for the other rotor.

Then maybe spin the engine over for a few brief seconds and reinstall the plugs. Spray starter fluid into the airfilter for two seconds and try to start again.
Old 12-11-05, 08:51 PM
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thanks for they reply, but i have done all of that already.
Old 12-11-05, 09:05 PM
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Shoulda started by now.

My suggestion is to drop this deflooding procedure your presently using like a hot potato. Either make a fuel cut switch or go thru the trouble of removing the fuel pump plug and trying to start using starter fluid.

I'm assuming you do have spark and compression AND the cas has not been disturbed since the engine last ran. Also assuming there is no HUGE air leak like the brake booster hose off or the like.
Old 12-11-05, 09:10 PM
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well it sounds like it is trying to start, it just cant. i have done the unflooding by the egi fuse and i have also tried upluging the relay under the steering wheel. i have spark on all 4 plugs too. the previous owner let it sit for a year and when it wouldnt start they just started replacing parts in it. it has a new fuel pump, and spark plugs. it has a extra ecu and secondary injectors also. i did notice that the secondary rear rotor injector was leaking from the fuel rail. i will replace the o-ring on it tomorow and try it again
Old 12-12-05, 02:52 AM
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well i will add some more info, the guages seem like they are working in the car. none of the dummy lights were on with the key on, they i swaped ecus just because there was one in the car and now the dummy lights ARE on when the key is on and not cranking the motor. also the tach sit at zero while cranking, but it will bounce up to about 100 rpm or so.
Old 12-12-05, 03:06 PM
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i have this same problem and have done everything you have also. IKt's very aggrevating. I think mine is either a vaccuum leak somewhere (from removing the air pump) or a possible electrical grmelin in the ignition switch (also replaced).

I'm to the point now where I'll have to tow it to a shop to get it started. I can do most anything on regular engines but the vaccuum complexities of these engines just boggles me.
Old 12-12-05, 04:57 PM
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Crash Auto?Fix Auto.

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have you actually CHECKED for spark?

if so, Id say new plugs wouldn't hurt....the only thing that scares me is the ATF trick.

Its a last resort, desperate and silly trick for people with ZERO compression....
Old 12-12-05, 09:00 PM
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i have had the plugs out of the motor and pluged in to the wires while cranking and they all spark
Old 12-13-05, 10:22 PM
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any more sugestions?
Old 12-13-05, 10:26 PM
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What is the compression? It sounds just like the 87 we've got here. Compression is about 70psi so we know it needs a rebuild.
Old 12-14-05, 09:49 PM
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not sure, my friend (long time rx7 guy) was looking at the guage and he said it was good.
Old 12-17-05, 03:31 AM
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well today i am removing airpump, acv, rats nest, egr, a/c, gutting the cats. i am doing the tb mod and replaceing the fuel filter and maybee hardwireing the fuel pump. i am trying to take out anything that could cause a problem with it not starting.
Old 12-19-05, 05:04 AM
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ok guys, took off all the emissions crap, put on a new fuel filter and it still wont start. i did a compression test with a piston motor tester and i got 75psi in the front and 85psi in the rear, i think thats pretty decent for a motor that hasnt been started up and ran for over a year. i also took out the CAS and put it back in just to make sure that the timming was set right and it is. any suggestions?
Old 12-20-05, 01:09 AM
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update, i took out the fuel pump and replaced it with a walbro 190 that i had from my probe and i wired it up to a switch and relay, so i know i am getting fuel now and it still wont start, any ideas?
Old 12-20-05, 01:17 AM
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I "lost" my emissions....

 
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have you checked ALL the fuses? not just the main ones but the secondary box in the cabin, there is one i forget wich but there is one that if blown will keep it from starting and it shows the same symptons, also it could be a bad afm
Old 12-20-05, 01:25 AM
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all of the fuses are good, thats the very first thing that i checked, but i forgot to add something. after i took off all of the emissions crap there is now a loud buzzer that comes on after the key is in the ignition for about a minute or two, it sounds like its comming from behind the guages, any ideas what that could be?
Old 12-20-05, 01:36 AM
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115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
This is what Kevin Landers says on his website. http://www.rotaryresurrection.com
He has done many rebuilds and knows what he's talking about.
Old 12-20-05, 03:55 AM
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but the compression is still high enough for the motor to be able to start.
Old 12-20-05, 05:07 AM
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wow, it looks like you cant edit your post on here after a certain amount of time, but amyway, after searching, i found that the buzzer was just the low coolent buzzer
Old 12-20-05, 10:16 AM
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Alright, My car did the same thing afetr it flooded bad. You just need a GOOD jump, and crank the motor, without fuel for a few minutes.

The put the fuse back in, crank it with fuel.

Keep doing it over and over, took me abotu an hour.


My buddy's car sat for two years as well, 86 N/A

New plugs, ATF, Good gas.

We just kept on doing the same **** as stated about, and it started
it just takes a while. The most important thing if you have fuel and spark, is having a good strong jump.
Old 12-20-05, 09:37 PM
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i have done that many times, i have used a friends car with jumper cables, a jump box and a battery charger set to start and it still wont start
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