cant get s4 se to start
#1
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cant get s4 se to start
ok guys its a 88 SE, with a auto. it had sat for a year because the prevoius onwer was in the navy and out on cruise or something? brand new plugs, was almost emty on gas so i put 5 gallons of fresh gas in it, also did the atf trick. has fuel, spark and decent compresion. i have also done the un-flooding thing several times. it will turn over fine, but just will not fire. i have had a battery charger, jump box and another car to jump start it, so i know it has enough voltage. any ideas on how to get it to fire being a auto? is there anyway to push start it at all? thanks in advance for any help
Last edited by white94pgt; 12-11-05 at 12:51 AM.
#3
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Pull the lower sparkplugs.
Have someone turn the engine over while you put your finger on one sparkplug hole at a time.
As he rotates the engine you should feel compression puffs coming out of the sparkplug holes trying to blow your finger off the hole.
Do both lower sparkplug holes that way.
The result should be the same for both sparkplug holes. You should NOT feel maybe one puff........then a lag until you feel it puff again.
If one rotor is good and the other bad, you should be able to readily tell if you have a bad rotor by comparing the two.
If they both have constant puffs coming out, then you might try to inject some oil into the rotors, either thru the sparkplug holes or some other means. Remember there are three faces on each rotor so you'l have to inject oil......turn the crank one full turn......inject some more oil............turn one full turn............inject oil again. And do the same for the other rotor.
Then maybe spin the engine over for a few brief seconds and reinstall the plugs. Spray starter fluid into the airfilter for two seconds and try to start again.
Have someone turn the engine over while you put your finger on one sparkplug hole at a time.
As he rotates the engine you should feel compression puffs coming out of the sparkplug holes trying to blow your finger off the hole.
Do both lower sparkplug holes that way.
The result should be the same for both sparkplug holes. You should NOT feel maybe one puff........then a lag until you feel it puff again.
If one rotor is good and the other bad, you should be able to readily tell if you have a bad rotor by comparing the two.
If they both have constant puffs coming out, then you might try to inject some oil into the rotors, either thru the sparkplug holes or some other means. Remember there are three faces on each rotor so you'l have to inject oil......turn the crank one full turn......inject some more oil............turn one full turn............inject oil again. And do the same for the other rotor.
Then maybe spin the engine over for a few brief seconds and reinstall the plugs. Spray starter fluid into the airfilter for two seconds and try to start again.
#5
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Shoulda started by now.
My suggestion is to drop this deflooding procedure your presently using like a hot potato. Either make a fuel cut switch or go thru the trouble of removing the fuel pump plug and trying to start using starter fluid.
I'm assuming you do have spark and compression AND the cas has not been disturbed since the engine last ran. Also assuming there is no HUGE air leak like the brake booster hose off or the like.
My suggestion is to drop this deflooding procedure your presently using like a hot potato. Either make a fuel cut switch or go thru the trouble of removing the fuel pump plug and trying to start using starter fluid.
I'm assuming you do have spark and compression AND the cas has not been disturbed since the engine last ran. Also assuming there is no HUGE air leak like the brake booster hose off or the like.
#6
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well it sounds like it is trying to start, it just cant. i have done the unflooding by the egi fuse and i have also tried upluging the relay under the steering wheel. i have spark on all 4 plugs too. the previous owner let it sit for a year and when it wouldnt start they just started replacing parts in it. it has a new fuel pump, and spark plugs. it has a extra ecu and secondary injectors also. i did notice that the secondary rear rotor injector was leaking from the fuel rail. i will replace the o-ring on it tomorow and try it again
#7
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well i will add some more info, the guages seem like they are working in the car. none of the dummy lights were on with the key on, they i swaped ecus just because there was one in the car and now the dummy lights ARE on when the key is on and not cranking the motor. also the tach sit at zero while cranking, but it will bounce up to about 100 rpm or so.
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#8
i have this same problem and have done everything you have also. IKt's very aggrevating. I think mine is either a vaccuum leak somewhere (from removing the air pump) or a possible electrical grmelin in the ignition switch (also replaced).
I'm to the point now where I'll have to tow it to a shop to get it started. I can do most anything on regular engines but the vaccuum complexities of these engines just boggles me.
I'm to the point now where I'll have to tow it to a shop to get it started. I can do most anything on regular engines but the vaccuum complexities of these engines just boggles me.
#14
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well today i am removing airpump, acv, rats nest, egr, a/c, gutting the cats. i am doing the tb mod and replaceing the fuel filter and maybee hardwireing the fuel pump. i am trying to take out anything that could cause a problem with it not starting.
#15
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ok guys, took off all the emissions crap, put on a new fuel filter and it still wont start. i did a compression test with a piston motor tester and i got 75psi in the front and 85psi in the rear, i think thats pretty decent for a motor that hasnt been started up and ran for over a year. i also took out the CAS and put it back in just to make sure that the timming was set right and it is. any suggestions?
#16
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update, i took out the fuel pump and replaced it with a walbro 190 that i had from my probe and i wired it up to a switch and relay, so i know i am getting fuel now and it still wont start, any ideas?
#17
I "lost" my emissions....
have you checked ALL the fuses? not just the main ones but the secondary box in the cabin, there is one i forget wich but there is one that if blown will keep it from starting and it shows the same symptons, also it could be a bad afm
#18
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all of the fuses are good, thats the very first thing that i checked, but i forgot to add something. after i took off all of the emissions crap there is now a loud buzzer that comes on after the key is in the ignition for about a minute or two, it sounds like its comming from behind the guages, any ideas what that could be?
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115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
He has done many rebuilds and knows what he's talking about.
#21
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wow, it looks like you cant edit your post on here after a certain amount of time, but amyway, after searching, i found that the buzzer was just the low coolent buzzer
#22
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Alright, My car did the same thing afetr it flooded bad. You just need a GOOD jump, and crank the motor, without fuel for a few minutes.
The put the fuse back in, crank it with fuel.
Keep doing it over and over, took me abotu an hour.
My buddy's car sat for two years as well, 86 N/A
New plugs, ATF, Good gas.
We just kept on doing the same **** as stated about, and it started
it just takes a while. The most important thing if you have fuel and spark, is having a good strong jump.
The put the fuse back in, crank it with fuel.
Keep doing it over and over, took me abotu an hour.
My buddy's car sat for two years as well, 86 N/A
New plugs, ATF, Good gas.
We just kept on doing the same **** as stated about, and it started
it just takes a while. The most important thing if you have fuel and spark, is having a good strong jump.
#23
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i have done that many times, i have used a friends car with jumper cables, a jump box and a battery charger set to start and it still wont start
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