I wired it, it is fine. I have seen cars with VID switch bad but 6 port functioning, if that is the case just wire both switches to one plug.

 

You don't need one, since the ECU already switches the VDI for you. You'd only need an rpm switch if you wanted to change the switching point from the stock 5200rpm. To figure out the ideal rpm to set it at, you do one dyno run with it open and one with it closed. As you can see in the graph I posted earlier, this will give you two curves that cross each other. The rpm at which they cross is the perfect switching point.

 

Ok, I understand. I realize that currently, the ecu does it for me; however, your last post makes perfect sense. I will do just that. Run one dyno with it open and one dyno with it closed. Graph them on top of each other and find the crosspoint. If it is different from 5200, then I will change it with an RPM switch, if not, I won't.

 

sorry i failed to mention that.
try that out, it seems your plan is good. let us know how it goes

 

OMG, you're actually going to test to see if you need a mod before doing it!

 

No you won't get a huge gain with NA. I think the most you get without spending a shitload is about 170hp, wouldn't be surprized if thats flywheel.
That header is nice, it will be louder than stock and you will have to buy the presilencer to match it up. The header doesn't really add much to performance so I've been told, but im buying it becuase of two things

Im sick and tired of playing around with the goddamn downpipe-manifold gasket, I always get an exhaust leak from this area, and it never really matched up perfectly in the first place, totall PITA
With the RB header its just one piece, and it collects much more effieciently than the stock manifold, so like I said a little bit more power.
Its been talked about before that a collected header is much better for naturally aspirated performance becuase the exhaust pulse from one rotor, helps pull the next one from the other rotor. When they are uncollected, don't be surprized if the HP is lower. I think people buy the duals for two reasons

-they're dual and you'd THINK its better
-The sound is much better than a collected header
-I spose they would be better if you were running a supercharger!

Biggest performance increases for the NA that aren't alot are that header, a cone intake (preferable cold air intake) and possibly a fuel controller, to lean it out at higher rpms and get more power.

 

Yay, do I get a cookie?

 

Yeah, I make 165 whp NA with the Racing Beat downpipe, presilencer, and catback; S-AFC II tuned for 13:1 AFRs; K&N w/ custom box; small streetport; port-matched and polished intake manifolds; and six-port stuff removed (seemed much faster without).

I'm still deciding on whether or not I should leave it as is or get the collected header. I would just leave it as is, install the supercharger, go to the dyno and tune, and see how it goes; however, I would think adding a header could change the tuning, so if I'm unhappy with the results, I would have to install the header and go back and tune again. Dyno time isn't cheap around here. I still have to get the freaking FD back before I can do any of this. Hopefully, I'll have her back soon.

 

There is a lot of excellent information in this thread, and I would like to see the results. Keep in mind that ignition timing will also play a big role in the forced induction setup. Good luck!