well i always noticed when i had my S4 TII it was weird, when i would try and start off in first if i didnt rev it up to like 2k and start moving the revs would like instantly drop.. this is my first sports car so i didn't know if this was normal could this have something to do with the clutch? Well thats the least of my worries i was recently told that my TPS is bad by my local rotary shop and i hear this can attribute to horrible gas milage which i have been experiencing ever since i got this car. Lastly i noticed i have boost problems, I'm curious if the tps controls boost also, if i am driving the car and just go past say 3,000 rpm with no boost there is no hesistation, but if i go up to 3k and try and give it a lil boost it hesistates, but if i got WOT there is no hesistation. Also the other night i was going WOT in third and at around 6.5k the car hesitated and i got scared and let off. I have about 10k on a mazda reman (put in before my ownership), Racing beat turboback, Rtek 1.7, 720cc secondary injectors, hks intake, walbro fuel pump

 

a messed up TPS can cause the strange hesiatations, as well as hesitations going from cruizing to mid throttle, or vise versa.... sometimes it can even cause the high end hesitations

do you have access to a digital multimeter?? if so hook unplug the TPS and run the multimeter to the tps and set it to ohm mode, theres 3 wires on the tps just move it around till you get a signal, with the throttle all the way open you shouldnt have more than 6K ohms ( if you get a really low number then you hooked it up to the wrong two wires!!! if your getitng close to 6K or higher then that can cause high rpm hesitatons.....

then also sweet from idle to full throttle slowly and see if theres any "open spots", this will be where theres a hole , that can cause some more hesitation/problems

also with the car warmed up, the tps should be adjusted to about 1K ohms.... there is also another method using two lights to adjust the tps, if you search... but using a multimeter u can help determine if the tps is really bad or not

 

i might add..
if you see the resistance jump and bounce around..

then your tps is FUBAR.

 

Or your Multimeter is Auto-Ranging. Mine shows almost exactly like a flat-spot when I cross about 2k ohms, but it does it on two different TPS. It's actually the Multimeter adjusting range.

 

digital multimeters (DMMs) react very slowly to changes, so a very slight bump you will probably not notice. An analog multimeter would be ideal for sweeping through it's range.

 

Exactly what my friends car does. He knows its the TPS and keeps replacing it with used ones. After he replaces the old one, it's fine for about 30 minutes, then it starts hesitating a little, then slowely gets worse.

I'd suggest getting a new one if possible.

 

That's weird - as unlikely as it is, if it's ruining working TPS's time after time, then that sounds like a computer issue. What would be the odds of getting like 3 or 4 working TPS that just happen to be on their way out?