I went to smog today and failed. I had tweaked the AFM because a couple days ago the CO registered me at 2.0 with a max of 0.7. With the tweaking I did, I was able to get it down to 0.01. But I touched the idle intake without any measuring equipment and thought I was all good. Apparently I didnt do it right cuz the smog failed me with the Ignition Timing. They couldnt/didnt even read a number off. I then talked to my mechanic and he said that if the Ignition Timing is off that that could affect the NO as I failed that @ 25mph with a 876 reading with a max allowance of 746. He said that if I had an Ignition Timing device (or something) I could properly calibrate it all and possibly pass.



Does any of this make sense to anyone? Can you explain it back to me in dumber engrish?

Thanks

 

You need a timing light to set the ignition timing. There are two marks on the main pulley, plus a "pin" sticking out that is used for calibration.

Most likely you won't be able to see the marks, because of years of dirt. Look for two indentations on the far inside side of the pulley. They're about an inch apart IIRC. Make them visible - I've used whiteout in the past.

Start the engine, let it warm up and slow down to it's 750 RPM idle. Jumper the initial set coupler (green, front driver's side of the engine bay, two pin connector). Put a timing light on the L1 plug wire and make sure the pin is lined up with one of the marks. If you put the timing light on T1, it should line up with the other one. If you need to adjust the timing, you rotate the CAS - loosen the retaining nut (10mm), and rotate the entire unit to set the timing.

-=Russ=-

 

now can u adjust the timing like a piston motor? like is there a difference if u retard it or advance it as aposed to it bein right on the mark.. j/w