2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Can someone educate me on the 929 Master cyl swap?

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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:19 PM
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Can someone educate me on the 929 Master cyl swap?

Ive been searching but I havent really found a definative answer on it. What will fit and what wont? My car is a turbo with ABS.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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I been trying to find info on this as well. My MC seems like it may be on its way out and I'd like to do a 929 swap. Last time I asked in this section I got no answers. I've read that a 626 MC is almost a direct drop in upgrade as well. There has got to be someone on here that has done the 929 upgrade.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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I know the 929 mastercylinder swap works on FD's (got one for Garfinkle) but I have'nt found much on FC's either!
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:18 AM
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What exactly would be an upgraded by using a 929 MC?
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:23 AM
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I believe its bigger. I've heard some rumors about it to. My master cyl is toast. I need to replace it or figure this out.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:38 AM
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I believe its bigger.
Bigger as in the displacment, or a bigger reservoir?
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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so.... whats wrong with the stock one???? it works, stops you , i dont see why you would want to "upgrade"
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 01:14 AM
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I've upgraded. one of the best mods I've done. I track my car and the 929 MC was a huge leap in braking performance (I had already done pads, rotors, brake bleeding before 929 upgrade). Stock t2 MC is 15/16", the 929 is 1". I forget which years 929 will work since I got it free from a buddy who had a few sitting around. Anyways you'll have to fab a brake line or bend your stock one. You'll also have to adjust the brake pedal play and also brake light sensor behind the pedal (this took me the longest trying to not have the brakes drag while having minial play before engagement). Search the info is out there and I personally posted my experiences on it in my track day threads.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1SxyRXy
so.... whats wrong with the stock one???? it works, stops you , i dont see why you would want to "upgrade"
Less brake pedal travel, especially when you have a big brake kit.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 09:01 AM
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Stock NA is 7/8.
So could a 15/16" T2 MC/booster be an upgrade for the NA's?

Is the T2 master cylinder a bolt-in in the NA? or would I need the booster/MC combo?

I was under the impression that the 1" 929 master cylinder requires custom hardlines.

Nice writeup on the FD swap:
http://robrobinette.com/mastercylinder929.htm
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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i believe info which was around consisted of this:

you need 1993 MC from 929 and FC3S S5 brake booster to make it fit
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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Hmmm...the specs in the Bendix Brakes catalog has both MC's (929 and RX-7) having the same bore dimension. I don't see the benefit then.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Stock NA is 7/8.
So could a 15/16" T2 MC/booster be an upgrade for the NA's?

Is the T2 master cylinder a bolt-in in the NA? or would I need the booster/MC combo?

I was under the impression that the 1" 929 master cylinder requires custom hardlines.

Nice writeup on the FD swap:
http://robrobinette.com/mastercylinder929.htm
Yes you must make a custom hardline. It's not very difficult at all. It's not very difficult, just go to kragen or any other parts store and get a length of hardline with flared ends and fittings already on there. It's a few bucks and just bend it yourself. It only needs to go from the proportioner valve to the MC.
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Juiceh
Less brake pedal travel, especially when you have a big brake kit.

Less brake pedal travel can easily be accomplished by adjusting the brake booster pushrod. I used to have to put my pedal all the way to the floor practically until I read a thread on here talking about adjusting the brake booster. You just unbolt the master cylinder (couple bolts, easy to get to) then use a vise grip and a 7mm socket to lengthen the brake booster pushrod. The key is to only adjust it just enough that your brakes don't drag. It may take a couple of adjustments to get it right. Do a search on it. You don't even need to disconnect any brake lines or do any sort of bleeding.

I don't see how this mod would really be necessary. Wouldn't you actually need MORE pedal effort, once the booster makes contact with the master cylinder, to push all that fluid? That's why you'd have to adjust the brake pedal etc. to get more leverage.
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