So I have a vert with front and rear speakers running off the head unit, and a tube sub running off of seperate sub out jacks.

So i am assuming my front speakers just suck because they distort badly if i try and fade them to the same levels as the rears, and when the top is down they are virtually useless.

So my question is-- Can I safely run the headrest speakers off of the head unit i.e. both left channels splitting off the same wire and same with the rights and not have a drop in quality ?

Or do you guys think it's better to get better front speakers and hope they are able to be heard better over the wind factor?

My thought was that i wouldn't need the headrest speakers to be very loud so i could keep the fade on them very low to avoid blowing them out, just need something to hear voices better when i dont feel like blaring the radio.

Btw, the stock amp for the headrest speakers is dead so using that isn't an option atm. thanks for any suggestions

 

Maybe the wiring or amp is bad for the front speakers as well.

 

You should be able to wire them that way. Running both left speakers split off one wire and both rights split off another. But, Im not 100% sure of how the wiring goes on those types of cars with headrest speakers cause I've never put a system in one. But theoretically it should work. And you shouldnt get a drop in sound quality as long as you use good speaker wire.

 

First, replace the front speakers.
Second, use some 'Bass Blockers' on the headrest speakers. You don't need anything below 150 hz from those speakers, nor can they reproduce it well.

The head unit amp quality will be the determining factor. Here's why: There are TWO speakers in each seat, 4ohms each. the fron speakers are going to be 4 ohms each. You get that all wired up and you will have a 2 ohm load on the back (headrests) and a 4 ohm load on the front. The internal amp (in the head unit) is designed for a 4 ohm load on front channels and a 4 ohm load on back channels. This amp may

A.) distort
B.) overheat
C.) fail
D.) all of the above
E.) none of the above

If it were my system, I would go ahead with your plan but put in a small amp for the headrest speakers that is capable of 2 ohm load, send a speaker level output to the amp and enjoy the show.

Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

In case the OP doesn't know this, wikipedia says:
"A high-pass filter is a filter that passes high frequencies well, but attenuates (reduces the amplitude of) frequencies lower than the cutoff frequency. The actual amount of attenuation for each frequency varies from filter to filter. It is sometimes called a low-cut filter; the terms bass-cut filter or rumble filter are also used in audio applications. A high-pass filter is the opposite of a low-pass filter, and a band-pass filter is a combination of a high-pass and a low-pass.

It is useful as a filter to block any unwanted low frequency components of a complex signal while passing the higher frequencies. Of course, the meanings of 'low' and 'high' frequencies are relative to the cutoff frequency chosen by the filter designer."

 

How many watts do you think the headrest speakers can handle? What exactly do you mean by a "speaker level output" to the amp? thanks for the help

 

"speaker level input" : it's taking the signal (wires going directly to speakers) and connecting them to the amp for signal instead of using RCA's. RCA's are reccomended, but if your deck isn't a good aftermarket deck with front/rear RCA outputs (NOT sub RCA's), you'll have to just splice into speaker wires from deck (can be done at rear speakers, so it's closer and easier to do depending on where your amp is located) to amp for signal.


two ways to do this:
1) if the amp allows speaker level inputs, it'll have a small 2/4 wire connector next to the RCA inputs. it'll include the connector, so it'll be straight forward. solder the sepaker wires coming from your deck onto the connector and plug it in.

2) if the amp doesn't accept speaker level inputs, go to a local stereo shop (or radioshack) and get a little module that converts stereo level input to rca's.


the way i'd do it....i'd get a small 4 ch. amp. replace the front and rear speakers. run the front and rear off the amp. use the deck to run headrest speakers. the amp will allow you to control the power going into front vs rear instead of just using fade. also if it's a good amp, the signal will be much clear and louder. you might not even need the headrest speakers at that point...

i'm not familiar w/ the headrest speaker amp...is it located inside the seat or under the dash? the deck has a built in amp, would it be possible to just run straight wires from deck to headrest speakers...?


hope this helps.

 

GEEZ, Wikipedia can be so precise and yet so obtuse.

How 'bout just saying a 250 to 275 microfarad electrolytic capacitor, installed inline on each channel of the headrest speakers?

Of course, BassBlocker brand is something he can google up then order.
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...B150A2&tp=3216
They will tell you when you over drive them, they probably can handle 20 watts or so, if you roll out the bass with the bassblocker.

This is the speaker level wiring from the head unit that is faded to the back speakers. You need to get an amp that can accept speaker level input.

 

I just posted that so he wouldn't be limited to that brand of frequency filters if he didn't already know what they are.