just like the subject says ...????



PLEASE HELP ME


im gettin close to parting this bitch out

 

yes

 

Yes.


-Ted

 

so thats not my problem then ...


its down to either injectors or a huge *** vaccum leak ..
noone chooses to answer me on what could possibly be that big to leak enough to keep the car from staying started ...

and noone wants to answer the question of if injectors would keep my car from staying started ... they sat for a year in my garge

im just begging for help at this point

 

ill search my old posts and repost my symptons

 

yes to the first question.

about the injectors.....how about the grommets at the bottom of the injectors leaking air??? maybe in crooked or rock hard grommets>?

 

well the grommets were the ones that were already on there, but they werent rock hard and i lubed them up real good .
BUT

im using a series 4 engine with s5 upper and lower intakes ... s4 injectors ...
the grommets do distort when you tighten down the upper intake manifold ....
im pretty sure they still seal, but they do look crushed ..

now if thats the case, what can i use in place of those?

does the s5 injectors differ in size, and maybe thats why they are distorting?

 

make sure you use the correct impedence of injectors

they changed them mid way through 88.

s5=high impedence
s4=low

injectors are same specs besides resistance

 

well i guess the notch is different

u try a different ecu?

 

bump

 

Have you checked your BAC? Mine came unplugged due to a broken plug and caused the car to die. Plugged it back in and BINGO...works great again.

-Joe

 

I admit I'm puzzled about the crushed look of the grommets. When the rail is tightened down they should be snug, but you should still be able to rotate them without a whole lot of effort. Snug but rotatable?

Crushed. Hmmm. Does that mean severely distorted? Or just squished down a touch.

That was just a guess about the grommets anyway. They might be fine as frogs hair. The problem could be another thing, whatever the problem is.

 

they look pretty deformed ....
no gas is leaking from them though, so i assume they are making a good seal ...

that was just an idea...

im going to check for more vac leaks this weekend

but my main question still remains ...

its would have to be a HUGE vac leak to keep it from staying alive at all right?

what all could possibly be big enough

oh ... and the BAC ... its removed ... so that cant be the problem

 

oh ****.........the car wont' stay at idle or even run with out the bac (most times)

you have to open up the butterfies manually (this does the same as the bac).

When i removed my Bac and didn't have the injector air bleeder vac line hooked up correctly it would die right away. After getting the correct vac line and adjusting the butterflies it will idle fine at 750.

It takes a bit but is do-able

will it stay running if you press the gas pedal?

it it will run with a bit of throttle then just open your butterflies and tune it a bit more.

 

Actually, it can and probably is the problem.

-Joe

 

but people remove the BAC all the time ... i dont see how if its sole function is to up the idle a tad bit under load of the power stearing or whatever could cause the car to not stay started

it will stay started if i keep my foot on the gas

 

bump

 

there is a screw on the bac

it routes air around the bac

I've done this and have ran it for about a year. You will need to adjust your butterflies to get correct idle.

just adjust the butterflies via the 8mm nut/set screw

just do it and try it. Then you won't be pulling your hair out.

 

sounds good ...

can you explain what you did a little bit better though please??

i would really appreciate it

 

Fitness Stain,
I would guess that you may have a bunch of vacuum leaks. I had squirilly problems with my 87TII and found two vac lines which were no longer like rubber, they'd turned into black macaroni.
Anyway, i took the top end apart and replaced ALL the vac and fuel hoses with new stuff. I was amazed at the number of lines which had become completely brittle, cracked and broken.
I'll be re-assembling on Saturday, but I'm expecting to have a smooth running rotary when I'm through.


- k -

 

ive replaced ALL vaccum hoses with silicon from hose techniques ... they are all in good shape

and bump for my question to Sesshoumaru

 

When you don't have a bac you have set everything manually.

I assume your thermo wax it out (or incorrectly set). If it was there you shouldnt' have this problem until it got warmed.

Where the throttle cable and cruise control are there is a 8mm and a small flathead set screw. losen the 8mm nut and screw in the set screw.

You will do this alot until you get every thing tuned right. I ground the end of a normal screwdriver so it would fit inside. This way I dont' have to remove my manifold to set it.

I also reloomed my harness so my TPS is by the alt and i dont' have to remove my IC every time to set it (just use a long screw driver)

Set your tps before you change this.

It's very picky and will vary when warm/cold.

You have mess with your idle mixture/butterfly settings.

For now just turn the butter flies in so it idles at 1k or less. Then you can look around and diagnose any problems.

I just think you need to set the butterflies properly.

when you do start give it a little gas to clear it out. It will be rich from startign more than likely. Thermo wax normally takes care of that.

Don't even try to run an e-fan with out a bac. At 750rpm it will drag it down to about 600-650 and then will not be putting out enough voltage.

 

ive messed with that 8 mm bolt/screw ... that made no change, but i havent messed with the butterfly plates at all ...

so your saying i just have to set the plates pointing inward ..... is that easy to do ? ... how ?

 

that 8mm and set screw does set the butterflies (one by the cruise/throttle cables).

if you screw that set screw in it will keep the butter flies open. Just like your foot does.

to start you can screw the set screw all the way in. That should give like a 3k or some rediculous idle.

Then just back it off a bit until you have the correct setting.

Theres more to that but i would focus on just gett'n your car to idle on it's own.

 

im pretty sure thats the bolt that ive already messed with ... i tightened it all the way down, and nothing changed .. ... is there more than one of those 8mm bolt/screw things back there?