Can I Turn It Up To 12psi?
05-14-04, 12:04 PM
#26
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Re: Can I Turn It Up To 12psi?
Originally posted by Donn Hecht
MazdaRx7Racer4Life as far as the Fuel pump is concerned you cant go wrong with a Walbro or a FD Pump. Next I would rewire the F.Pump to make sure your getting the proper voltage to the pump to prevent a "lean" run condition. Second I would install 680's or 720's in the secondaries, at the same time I highly recommend that you take out the primaries while your at it, and send them to "MIC Turbo" in Hialeah to get them profesionaly cleaned, and balanced like I did for my Turbo II, they do a excellent job, and they change the filters, as well as the o-rings I noticed your in Miami like me, but I live on the Beach. They charge like $40.00/$50.00 dollars, and the turn around time is 24 hrs. This more like a insurance policy, so you have a peace of mind knowing your injectors are squirting properly. Also it would be a hell of a great idea to clean out your stock IC now that you have the UIM off to get to the injectors, run some Kerosine or mineral spirits through it, and let it sit in a bucket of mineral spirits for awhile allowing the chemicals to penetrate, to remove the oil, and gunk build up, after you IC has soaked for awhile take it out of the bucket, and run water through the inside to remove all the grease, and chemicals, run the water obviously until it comes out clear on the other side, this will increase the efficiency of your IC. Third since you have a New Motor in your car im pretty sure you dont want to pop it, so if I were you I would keep it at 10-11 PSI Max after the motor has been properly broken in, also port your wastegate. Fourth I would already be upgrading the IC if I were you. Fifth, and then again this is my personal opinion I would sell the HKS F-CON, and go with a real stand alone sytem like a Haltech,Microtech system which allows far more versatility as far as tuning and optomizing is concerned. Sorry but I have never been a fan of the HKS-FCON, AIC, GCC,and the VPC computers these are just more piggy back computers to add to the list, and more $$$ to spend. Then again someone correct me if im wrong, but I have never seen a Turbo II running hard using these setups from HKS, of course with the exception of probably a few Turbo II's running the HKS FCON's in Japan, due to the fact there are more experienced tuners familiar with the FCON, and there is far more support for the HKS line for the Rotary in Japan then in the US. So to sum it up what I would do is, sell the HKS FCON, run your car with the stock ECU, and properly break in the motor, get your injectors cleaned, clean the stock IC, keep the car at 10 PSI MAX, there is no need to boost more than 11 PSI on a stock IC it's just plain stupid, and ridicolus, due to the fact that the efficiency of the stock turbo/IC is no where near 12 to 15 PSI. Not to mention the fact that after a while at those boost levels the Oil Seals start to go bad, causing your Turbo to smoke. Once your motor is broken in go ahead with the Turbo Upgrade, by the way "MIC Turbo" offers the upgrade for the Turbo II its like $450.00. The owner also has a lot of experience with Turbo Rotarys so he knows what set up works best. Last but not least after you get the car broken in hit the Dyno with a wideband 02. Also who works on your car in Miami ? I got a lot of connections so if you need anything "PM" me, and ill give you my cell number. Good Luck
MazdaRx7Racer4Life as far as the Fuel pump is concerned you cant go wrong with a Walbro or a FD Pump. Next I would rewire the F.Pump to make sure your getting the proper voltage to the pump to prevent a "lean" run condition. Second I would install 680's or 720's in the secondaries, at the same time I highly recommend that you take out the primaries while your at it, and send them to "MIC Turbo" in Hialeah to get them profesionaly cleaned, and balanced like I did for my Turbo II, they do a excellent job, and they change the filters, as well as the o-rings I noticed your in Miami like me, but I live on the Beach. They charge like $40.00/$50.00 dollars, and the turn around time is 24 hrs. This more like a insurance policy, so you have a peace of mind knowing your injectors are squirting properly. Also it would be a hell of a great idea to clean out your stock IC now that you have the UIM off to get to the injectors, run some Kerosine or mineral spirits through it, and let it sit in a bucket of mineral spirits for awhile allowing the chemicals to penetrate, to remove the oil, and gunk build up, after you IC has soaked for awhile take it out of the bucket, and run water through the inside to remove all the grease, and chemicals, run the water obviously until it comes out clear on the other side, this will increase the efficiency of your IC. Third since you have a New Motor in your car im pretty sure you dont want to pop it, so if I were you I would keep it at 10-11 PSI Max after the motor has been properly broken in, also port your wastegate. Fourth I would already be upgrading the IC if I were you. Fifth, and then again this is my personal opinion I would sell the HKS F-CON, and go with a real stand alone sytem like a Haltech,Microtech system which allows far more versatility as far as tuning and optomizing is concerned. Sorry but I have never been a fan of the HKS-FCON, AIC, GCC,and the VPC computers these are just more piggy back computers to add to the list, and more $$$ to spend. Then again someone correct me if im wrong, but I have never seen a Turbo II running hard using these setups from HKS, of course with the exception of probably a few Turbo II's running the HKS FCON's in Japan, due to the fact there are more experienced tuners familiar with the FCON, and there is far more support for the HKS line for the Rotary in Japan then in the US. So to sum it up what I would do is, sell the HKS FCON, run your car with the stock ECU, and properly break in the motor, get your injectors cleaned, clean the stock IC, keep the car at 10 PSI MAX, there is no need to boost more than 11 PSI on a stock IC it's just plain stupid, and ridicolus, due to the fact that the efficiency of the stock turbo/IC is no where near 12 to 15 PSI. Not to mention the fact that after a while at those boost levels the Oil Seals start to go bad, causing your Turbo to smoke. Once your motor is broken in go ahead with the Turbo Upgrade, by the way "MIC Turbo" offers the upgrade for the Turbo II its like $450.00. The owner also has a lot of experience with Turbo Rotarys so he knows what set up works best. Last but not least after you get the car broken in hit the Dyno with a wideband 02. Also who works on your car in Miami ? I got a lot of connections so if you need anything "PM" me, and ill give you my cell number. Good Luck
05-21-04, 01:42 PM
#29
1 BAD 7
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami,Fla
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MazdaRX7Racer4Life you never got my message ?
I sent you the number to MIC, im assuming you never got it ? When I get home later on today I will send it to your mailbox via PM. Oh by the way you know Louie with the flared out Blue first gen ? He's registered on this forum under Luiml73. Well he's a buddy of mine. Maybe youve seen my Turbo II, its black, with a RE Amemiya FC 2000 Front, with Border side skirts, and Racing Heart Type C2's 18" By the way if I were you I would break in your motor just a little bit longer to make sure the Apex Seals, and the Housings get a good tight seal, this allows the Apex Seals to seat in properly, and allow good compression, as well as a motor thats going to last you for a long time, also if your not careful, and you dont properly break in a motor, and you installed Brand New Bearings with your rebuild, you might just spin a bearing if you get on the car to soon if it hasent been broken in properly. Depending on your driving habits,maintenance, tuning, etc, etc, you should have a motor that will last for a long time. I personaly put a good 3,000 miles on my Turbo II, before I dropped the hammer, and I believe if you go about the proper steps to break in the motor now, its going to pay off in the future, also I recommend a strict routine of 2,7000,3,000 miles Oil Changes this is detrimental to the life expectency of the Rotary. I can proudly say I squezzed close to 200K out of my Turbo II motor.
I sent you the number to MIC, im assuming you never got it ? When I get home later on today I will send it to your mailbox via PM. Oh by the way you know Louie with the flared out Blue first gen ? He's registered on this forum under Luiml73. Well he's a buddy of mine. Maybe youve seen my Turbo II, its black, with a RE Amemiya FC 2000 Front, with Border side skirts, and Racing Heart Type C2's 18" By the way if I were you I would break in your motor just a little bit longer to make sure the Apex Seals, and the Housings get a good tight seal, this allows the Apex Seals to seat in properly, and allow good compression, as well as a motor thats going to last you for a long time, also if your not careful, and you dont properly break in a motor, and you installed Brand New Bearings with your rebuild, you might just spin a bearing if you get on the car to soon if it hasent been broken in properly. Depending on your driving habits,maintenance, tuning, etc, etc, you should have a motor that will last for a long time. I personaly put a good 3,000 miles on my Turbo II, before I dropped the hammer, and I believe if you go about the proper steps to break in the motor now, its going to pay off in the future, also I recommend a strict routine of 2,7000,3,000 miles Oil Changes this is detrimental to the life expectency of the Rotary. I can proudly say I squezzed close to 200K out of my Turbo II motor.
05-21-04, 03:01 PM
#30
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is sweet, I know luis. He's dropping his engine in on saturday. That thing is gonna be sweet. I am still taking it easy on my motor, just planning ahead for the future. I haven't gotten around to MIC yet, ill probably just pass by there in person later.
05-22-04, 10:56 AM
#32
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks man, Im gonna install my turbo timer right now and rewire my fuel pump (seems a little complicated, but not impossible)
05-23-04, 10:13 PM
#33
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just finished installing and rewiring my walbro 255lph fuel pump. Let me restate my mods:
My mods are Banzai TID, HKS SSQV, RacingBeat Turbo-back exhaust, Brand New Rebuild with a Large Streetport, GReddy/Trust Boost and EGT Gauges and also GReddy/TRust Profec B Spec II and Turbo Timer. RacingBeat FCD. and ofcourse, an HKS PFC FCON.
My next question is more of an experience-based opinion, what should my next power mod be? Injectors? FPR? FMIC?
I am building up my mods to be able to support an upgraded turbo. Maybe I should just go standalone from now and work my way up? Let me know your opinions. Thanks
My mods are Banzai TID, HKS SSQV, RacingBeat Turbo-back exhaust, Brand New Rebuild with a Large Streetport, GReddy/Trust Boost and EGT Gauges and also GReddy/TRust Profec B Spec II and Turbo Timer. RacingBeat FCD. and ofcourse, an HKS PFC FCON.
My next question is more of an experience-based opinion, what should my next power mod be? Injectors? FPR? FMIC?
I am building up my mods to be able to support an upgraded turbo. Maybe I should just go standalone from now and work my way up? Let me know your opinions. Thanks
05-24-04, 07:20 AM
#36
Full Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Definately injectors would be your next mod. But I would seriously consider doing what someone previously said with trading in your Fcon and going with bigger injectors and SAFC. You will be much happier with this setup.
05-24-04, 08:25 AM
#37
1 BAD 7
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami,Fla
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jesus the next thing I would do, and its the next logical upgrade is install either GSL-SE's in the secondaries or 720's, and control those with the Apexi S-AFC. Or if I were you, and I stated this many times before is get rid of the HKS FCON, and forget about the Apexi S-AFC as well.
Dont get me wrong now, the Apexi S-AFC is a hella of a great product, however it will never offer the versatility that any aftermarket EFI system can offer whether it be Haltech, Microtech, Electromotive, Wolf, SDS, etc,etc.
If I were in your situation at the moment I would do the following. 1. Upgrade the secondary injectors 2.Get a aftermarket EMS of your choice, get it installed, tuned, and dynoed with a wideband O2, at the same time your installing the EMS if you can, upgrade to a FMIC. If you cant upgrade to a FMIC then install it after you installed the EMS. 3. Last but not least, upgrade your radiator, and install a aftermarket H20 gauge, as the stock gauges are not that accurate.
Dont get me wrong now, the Apexi S-AFC is a hella of a great product, however it will never offer the versatility that any aftermarket EFI system can offer whether it be Haltech, Microtech, Electromotive, Wolf, SDS, etc,etc.
If I were in your situation at the moment I would do the following. 1. Upgrade the secondary injectors 2.Get a aftermarket EMS of your choice, get it installed, tuned, and dynoed with a wideband O2, at the same time your installing the EMS if you can, upgrade to a FMIC. If you cant upgrade to a FMIC then install it after you installed the EMS. 3. Last but not least, upgrade your radiator, and install a aftermarket H20 gauge, as the stock gauges are not that accurate.
05-24-04, 09:43 AM
#38
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 938
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What kind of HP numbers are you expecting on this? I'll be running around 10 psi with TID, full 2.5" exhaust, no cats, ported WG, ugraded fuel pump, FCD, and S-AFC II. I'm wondering what my extimated 1/4 mile and HP #'s should be.
-Joe
-Joe
05-24-04, 10:09 AM
#39
1 BAD 7
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami,Fla
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by OverDriven
What kind of HP numbers are you expecting on this? I'll be running around 10 psi with TID, full 2.5" exhaust, no cats, ported WG, ugraded fuel pump, FCD, and S-AFC II. I'm wondering what my extimated 1/4 mile and HP #'s should be.
-Joe
What kind of HP numbers are you expecting on this? I'll be running around 10 psi with TID, full 2.5" exhaust, no cats, ported WG, ugraded fuel pump, FCD, and S-AFC II. I'm wondering what my extimated 1/4 mile and HP #'s should be.
-Joe
With your setup you should break 13's in the 1/4 mile.
But then again its all depends on the driver. With my Turbo II I have all the same upgrades you have, and I ran a 13:7 @ 103 MPH. Horsepower I would say around
230 to the flywheel more or less, but im not sure as far as FWHP is concerned.
05-24-04, 12:03 PM
#43
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nope, no new bearings, the old ones were in great shape.
As for next mods, My hks FCOn will be departing shortly and I will be upgrading my injectors. Then I will be going standalone, fmic, then last I will definitely be upgrading to a 60-1 turbo. I believe ( deducted from information from my other thread) that the best way to reach my 400rwhp goal is with the "proven" 60-1 turbo. I know my fuel pump can take it, as well as my engine and by then....my intercooler will too, but my question is what type of injector setup (massive I suppose) would be able to hold 400rwhp at possible 17-18 pounds of boost? Thanks alot guys, youve been great so far
As for next mods, My hks FCOn will be departing shortly
and I will be upgrading my injectors. Then I will be going standalone, fmic, then last I will definitely be upgrading to a 60-1 turbo. I believe ( deducted from information from my other thread) that the best way to reach my 400rwhp goal is with the "proven" 60-1 turbo. I know my fuel pump can take it, as well as my engine and by then....my intercooler will too, but my question is what type of injector setup (massive I suppose) would be able to hold 400rwhp at possible 17-18 pounds of boost? Thanks alot guys, youve been great so far
05-24-04, 10:36 PM
#47
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nope, no Dyno yet, Im actually taking it easy on the car for now, I want to get MORE than enough fuel to support my future mods. Can anyone help me out with injector setup? I need to know what I can use to safely run around 400rwhp with the 60-1 at around 17-19 psi.
05-25-04, 05:26 AM
#48
I AM A THIEF!! READ THE FEEDBACK SECTION!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nope, no Dyno yet, Im actually taking it easy on the car for now, I want to get MORE than enough fuel to support my future mods. Can anyone help me out with injector setup? I need to know what I can use to safely run around 400rwhp with the 60-1 at around 17-19 psi.
05-25-04, 07:38 AM
#50
W. TX chirpin Monkey
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mesquite, TX
Posts: 2,684
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm pushing those numbers and am very pleased with the 550 primaries and 1680 sec. ( the secondaries were 1600 & then opened up a bit.) Supra TT fuel pump. Aeromotive FPR and E6K. oh and a TO4B /60-1 comressor.