My mods are Banzai TID, HKS SSQV, RacingBeat Turbo-back exhaust, Brand New Rebuild with a Large Streetport, GReddy/Trust Boost and EGT Gauges and also GReddy/TRust Profec B Spec II and Turbo Timer. RacingBeat FCD. and ofcourse, an HKS PFC FCON. My question is, can I turn my hi boost setting to 12 psi?

 

What fuel pump and injectors? From what I see I would be a afraid of a pop due to leaning out, that is if you don't have any major fuel upgrades.

--Fritz

 

With a walbro or FD pump you should be fine as far as a/f ratio's go. The fconn is a decent unit for the stock turbo/injectors, and is adjustable. You're starting to test the limits of the stock IC at that point.

At any rate, the only way to truly tell if your set up is fine would be to get on a dyno with a wideband set up, or buy your own wideband. The cost of widebands have dropped tremendously over the past few years. Good wideband systems can be had from the low 300's.

 

the main problem would be boost spiking, yeah sure you'll be fine at 12 psi with a walbro, but it only takes one spike to 15 or more psi to make you engine pop

 

Unfortunately you would know this first hand eh Black???

 

So you think I should buy a fuel pump first eh? just to be on the safe side?

 

yes. very needed.

 

yup fuel pump for a minimum. If you plan to drive that constant then 680 or 720 secondaries might be good to with an SAFC.

 

Whoa get some fuel in there chief! Get a walbro 255 and rewire that baby for some nice steady fuel flow, then get it up on a dyno with a wb and tune it at 12psi.

 

i picked me up a FD fuel pump for 40 bucks

 

Ok, a rebump for this post, here on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...476176861&rd=1

There is a walbro fuel pump and installation kit for $90 plus shipping? Is this a good deal? Will this be enough to boost 12-13 psi on my mods?

 

That walbro is the one I got. Make sure you get the right model year since they have different brackets.

The walbro is said to be good for up to 300hp.

At 12psi you are getting ready if not already to go past the stock injectors duty cycle.

You can probably get away with it but I would get some 680 or 720 secondaries and an SAFC.

 

have fun

 

its still kinda risky even with a fuel pump, id keep it at 10 untill you have a way to manage the fuel.

the 2 ways of doing it are getting a rising rate regulator with stock injectors, or getting a safc with some larger secondaries.

 

nice mods! what numbers do u expect to see during a dyno session?

 

K, I also have a walbro 255, 720 secondaries, SAFCII, 3" turbo back and a boost controller. I was hoping to run around 10 PSI. Should I be fairly safe to do so? I'm also going to get the V1.5 chip from pocketlogger.com, well worth the price IMO. This will be my D.D., so, I want to have it as reliable as possible while still being fun to drive, blah blah blah. You get the point. I just don't wanna pop.

 

Well, one of my mods is an HKS PFC FCON. It is supposed to be the ultimate mod for stock injectors. The pump, the FCON and the boot controller. That seems pretty safe, don't ya think? I don't want to buy injectors for my boost setting now since in about a year I will be setting up my fuel system to take a BNR Stage 4.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by GEINN FC3S
nice mods! what numbers do u expect to see during a dyno session? [/QUOTE

Thanks! To be honest, i have no idea, not even a ballpark figure but I wiill definitely be taking it once the walbro is in. Test a tune then I will upload the dynosheet.

 

oh damn i must of overlooked that, in that case you should be plenty safe to run 12-15 lbs. of boost. you can get that GCC unit also to customize it even more, with the pump of course.

i run 10 no problem with my mods, but it creeps to 15, im going to get a rising rate regulator then ill be good for that 15 creepage till i can afford a standalone. some people will dissagree but i dont want to waste 300+ on a safc and injectors.

 

There's no such thing. It's just a fuel controller that fools the ECU into increasing the injectors' opening time. If you hit 100% duty cycle that's it; it can't make them flow any more once you reach that point. Once you hit ~85% duty cycle, that's when they'll need to be upgraded.
A boost controller is not a safety device. It will not prevent boost from going too high. I presume from your comments that you're running less than 12psi now, so you must've ported your wastegate or you'd already be over 12psi even without a boost controller. Definitely get the pump first.
Get onto the dyno ASAP and get that fuel controller properly tuned, preferably monitoring duty cycle at the same time. With the controller you'll be able to increase fuel flow if necessary up to the limits of the injectors, so you'll quickly see if you need to upgrade them or not.

 

well I think te fcon has boost sensor and is preprogrammed to adjust your fuel curve, but I also think that inside it has a tuning dial for inreasing fuel flow. Ill have to check.

 

OK, my walbro 255lph, the FCON, the FCD and the boost controller. Im going to go to the dyno and start messing with it and raising the boost little by little, adjusting fuel and trying to get my max hp. What do you guys think?

 

I have a similar mods like yours , but I don't have street ported , after I tuned the GCC , the A/F ratio is around 11.3-11.9 , (@10 psi) , when I turn the boost to 12psi , the a/f is around 12.5-12.8, I remember the best A/f ratio is 11.3~11.5.

 

The a 255 and the FCON you should be ok - the FCON should have a couple of adjustments without the GCC that will richen the entire curve so you may want to play with that a bit. An upgraded IC is a good idea at this point and if you spend that kinda $ then some injectors and an AFC is a good idea. I recommend selling the FCON and getting an SAFC and injectors.

 

MazdaRx7Racer4Life as far as the Fuel pump is concerned you cant go wrong with a Walbro or a FD Pump. Next I would rewire the F.Pump to make sure your getting the proper voltage to the pump to prevent a "lean" run condition. Second I would install 680's or 720's in the secondaries, at the same time I highly recommend that you take out the primaries while your at it, and send them to "MIC Turbo" in Hialeah to get them profesionaly cleaned, and balanced like I did for my Turbo II, they do a excellent job, and they change the filters, as well as the o-rings I noticed your in Miami like me, but I live on the Beach. They charge like $40.00/$50.00 dollars, and the turn around time is 24 hrs. This more like a insurance policy, so you have a peace of mind knowing your injectors are squirting properly. Also it would be a hell of a great idea to clean out your stock IC now that you have the UIM off to get to the injectors, run some Kerosine or mineral spirits through it, and let it sit in a bucket of mineral spirits for awhile allowing the chemicals to penetrate, to remove the oil, and gunk build up, after you IC has soaked for awhile take it out of the bucket, and run water through the inside to remove all the grease, and chemicals, run the water obviously until it comes out clear on the other side, this will increase the efficiency of your IC. Third since you have a New Motor in your car im pretty sure you dont want to pop it, so if I were you I would keep it at 10-11 PSI Max after the motor has been properly broken in, also port your wastegate. Fourth I would already be upgrading the IC if I were you. Fifth, and then again this is my personal opinion I would sell the HKS F-CON, and go with a real stand alone sytem like a Haltech,Microtech system which allows far more versatility as far as tuning and optomizing is concerned. Sorry but I have never been a fan of the HKS-FCON, AIC, GCC,and the VPC computers these are just more piggy back computers to add to the list, and more $$$ to spend. Then again someone correct me if im wrong, but I have never seen a Turbo II running hard using these setups from HKS, of course with the exception of probably a few Turbo II's running the HKS FCON's in Japan, due to the fact there are more experienced tuners familiar with the FCON, and there is far more support for the HKS line for the Rotary in Japan then in the US. So to sum it up what I would do is, sell the HKS FCON, run your car with the stock ECU, and properly break in the motor, get your injectors cleaned, clean the stock IC, keep the car at 10 PSI MAX, there is no need to boost more than 11 PSI on a stock IC it's just plain stupid, and ridicolus, due to the fact that the efficiency of the stock turbo/IC is no where near 12 to 15 PSI. Not to mention the fact that after a while at those boost levels the Oil Seals start to go bad, causing your Turbo to smoke. Once your motor is broken in go ahead with the Turbo Upgrade, by the way "MIC Turbo" offers the upgrade for the Turbo II its like $450.00. The owner also has a lot of experience with Turbo Rotarys so he knows what set up works best. Last but not least after you get the car broken in hit the Dyno with a wideband 02. Also who works on your car in Miami ? I got a lot of connections so if you need anything "PM" me, and ill give you my cell number. Good Luck