LilNARxDrifter01

importboi's rx is slow.... my friend said he beat him with his stock primered gray 87' CRX... pics coming soon...

Kyrasis6

How do you bang up rotors that bad, where you running without an air filter and sucked up a rock???

Just joking around.

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

No, actually this is a J-spec that I bought that was supposed to be in "excellent" condition. Obviously after I had paid to have it installed it did not start. So now I've learned a lesson and am rebuilding it myself.

hypntyz7

ITs what happens 99.5% of the time you blow apex seals. Seriously...every core I take apart has one rotor and housing like that.

IF you machine the groove, you can use the rotor again, the markings on the face have no bearing on the workings of the engine, provided that:

1) the burrs do not protrude out from the surface...grind them down level.

2) the scars do not protrude in to the (hollow) rotor internals which would allow a massive oil leak (oil stays inside the rotor, and if there were an actual crack or hole, well...)

So, what happened to "the scars are not near the apex groove"?? Cause, that one pic clearly shows that some material is pushed INTO the groove.

UNless you machine it, it is junk. IT could be made to work, however. I have used machined/saved rotors in several of my own engines which still run with many thousands of miles to this day...but for the average person, it isnt a recommended practice. You have to know what you're doing, and what teh limitation of acceptable damage is, through experience.

jasonw3579

i'd just find a simple way to get 50 bucks and buy a new one, and paint that one yellow and sell it to a ricer with a civic and tell him if he puts it on his car, he'll make a mad 20hp yo

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

dam that dont look good. rat been eating that junk??

bkapold@aol.com

It would be best to replace, but I had one that had a chunk taken out of it and I rolled a carbide bit to round it out and its worked fine for the past 6 years under 15-20psi......