Donn Hecht

I think you cant go wrong with either one of those two Turbos. The specs look good for a 13B Turbo. Any one else care to comment on these two Turbos that Chris is looking at, im considering either one of the two for my Turbo II as well.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

The 'BLowZilla' T4/GT35 looks like an interesting turbo.
Its a non-BB GT35R comp wheel with a T4 turbine footprint. So I guess you get the benifits of the more efficent GT series, although you are missing out on the quicker spool of the BB's.

Sounds like a great turbo for the street and for people that don't want to spend the extra $$$ for a BB turbo

Too bad that no one on here has tried it yet.

The T04R is used by quite a few FD guys, don't know of any street FC's using it.

Donn Hecht

Thank you for your comment EvilRotor. Ive also have heard of the FD guys using the TO4R, so if the FD guys are using them, then im pretty sure they would work for us FC guys as well.

mazdarick

Can someone explain exactly what the trim is and how to select the proper setup??

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

TRIM is a ratio of inducer and exducer wheel diameters. Inducer is the smallest part of the wheel, exducer the largest, AFAIK.

Turbo size selection is an art in itself. There are many factors. Start with learning compressor maps

MazdaRx7Racer4Life

Its pure engineering but once you get it (Im guessing) it must be awesome to know your outcome even without hgaving to bolt it on to the car.

Mills

iTrader: (1)

I've never figured out what AFAIK means, someone help me out here...

RETed

For a compressor wheel, that is correct.


-Ted

RETed

http://fc3spro.com/abb.html


-Ted

87GTR

iTrader: (61)

Ted,

didnt tell us all before that T04 will never make over 400hp and that BDC's dyno chart was lie....

why is it now you have reversal of your option on T04's?

RETed

You're twisting around what I said.

I said that the 424rwhp dyno chart that BDC keep bragging about is now what I call a true 400rwhp run.

If you calculate the fuel requirements, 4 x 720's cannot support that kinda power levels safely.  My theory is that the fuel injectors was locking up at the tail end, causing a lean condition which boost power over the 400rwhp mark.

If you look at the dyno graph, it's obvious the power was already falling before the nice spike at the top end.


-Ted

Bukwild

anyone have a Garrett GT3540 they want to sell?

Bukwild

cheapest one I found was $1395

gerbraldy

WTF? Do you even know what you are talking about? Umm 400 hp is streetable, I drive in 418hp, 580trq almost everyday, (buddies 73 charger twin turbo'd 360)
oh, thats at 8 psi. And a nice TII setup you can easily make 400+ be running .6 in the 60 if you can hook up.

FC Alex

The the turbo is important what it really comes down to is your fuel. Go standalone, get yourself a nice fuel set up, and a great tuner. My friend made 404 whp at 22 psi on a T04B, street ported 13BT.

As for the people saying you can't get 400 whp without going stand alone that's a bunch of sh*t, they're just speculating. On race gas and with the haltech F5 and extra injector set up my car made 401.7 whp at 18 psi, street ported 13BT (Turbonetics T-62). I also put down 372 whp on pump gas at 15psi.*** BTW I'm selling this set up if anyone is interested PM me!

All I'm saying is that your goal can be easily attained if you find a great tuner. You don't need to go and buy a 3 thousand plus turbo kit. You could get their with T04E's and T66's.

RETed

You're fricken crazy.


-Ted

MazdaRx7Racer4Life

I've already decided on going standalone, not sure whihc one yet but thats another story, Ive decided on the fuel setup as well, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR, Stock (cleaned) 550cc/min Primary Injectors and Bosch 1600cc/min Secondary injectors. From what Ive heard, this combo, along with a standalone ems should be MORE than enough (not even reach 80% duty cycle) and be able to support 400rwhp. As for turbo, there is where I need some help deciding what is the best route to go to make 400rwhp. Care to make any suggestions? (intercooler decision is not made yet, between greddy vs. yearsofdecay kit.

FC Alex

Okay your fuel set up should be good enough. Okay I suggest you purhcase a PTE FMIC with endtanks, really good and efficient turbo bigger than greddy 2 row but smaller than the 3 row. If you don't want that FMIC I'd go with a greddy 2 row kit. As for your BOV I'd go with tial, same with your wastegate too. I bought an hks standard a couple of years back, but now I wish I would've bought a tial, their wastegates flow much better.

Ohh... One more thing, I believe that you shouldn't get the walboro 255, I've seen those max out at high 300's. Your better off buying a cosmo fuel pump, they sell them on rx7store, or I can sell you one if you'd like.

I believe that you should go with either a T66 or T70 turbo, with an exhaust size of .96 a/r. That should be more than good enough.

Your goal can easily be attained, but it all comes down to your tuner. And your fuel set up. I'd also invest in some new fuel rails, I could get you some if you'd like.

MazdaRx7Racer4Life

What are your deals on fuel rails, basically secondary fuel rail that holds 1600cc injectors. As for the walbro, really?? I though that the walbro would flow more than enough for 400rwhp. I was just checking out this turbo on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...480760802&rd=1

what do you think.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

You can make 400whp on quite a few turbos. It all depends on how much boost you want to run, and how much you want to spend.

If I where shopping for a new turbo, to replace my SR KKK, I'd would consider the following:

T66. This turbo is very intriguing to me. Can make 400whp no problem. Not sure how laggy it would be on the street. Can handle a lot of boost. Worked well for Kabooski.

You can get this baby in BB as well.

GT35R. Everybody's raving about this turbo. Increased efficiency over the old T series, and much faster spool with the BB center.

Have not seen too many dyno's of this turbo, so not sure how much boost it would take for 400. Doable though.

T3 footprint, so you need a custom manifold.

T4/GT35 BlowZilla. Non BB version of the GT35 with a T4 footprint. Won't spool as quick, but its cheaper and if it makes good power, might be worth a try.

Need to see dyno's.

Of course, there is always the old standby, T60-1 (T04S, T04B60-1). Used by many. People have made 400 at around 15psi.

MazdaRx7Racer4Life

Lets say I wanted to bolt on a T66 or a T60-1, Where would I go about getting these turbos from AND what sort of manifold/wastegate setup would I need to bolt it on

FC Alex

If you're worried about lag, just get a t-66 with a rear housing of .84 a/r. As far as the 60-1, they're basically T04B with a better wheel, never seen one put down 400 rwhp at 15 psi... highest I've seen is high high 300's rwhp at 18 psi.

I get the top and bottom rail both for $210 plus shipping. You could use an hks mani fold and tial wastegate, that would be a good set up.

Bukwild

"(intercooler decision is not made yet, between greddy vs. yearsofdecay kit."

No decision here. You need a intercooler that can handle 15lbs plus of boost. I don't suggest fabing up some junkyard starion intercooler and expect good things to happen. Their are probably better IC's than Greddy but it comes in a bolt up kit form and will get the job done.

MazdaRx7Racer4Life

so a t-66 with a .84 a/r rear housing will not lag as much and will make over 400rwhp? Thats what Im looking for, as for intercooler, I should get something topend. Greddy is the best bang for buck Ive seen around, any more ideas?

Lets say I were to run a t-66 with a .84 a/r. What would be the flange for the manifold? t4?

Bukwild

their were some guys making a divided manifold on this forum but I have not heard from them about it in a while. SS chrome makes a HKS log style for 200 bucks.
Before everyone on the forum says it will crack, I know it will crack but you have a warantee and its only 200 bucks. But for power you want divided.