Can anyone get their BOV to go off in neutral?
01-20-04, 08:17 PM
#1
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Can anyone get their BOV to go off in neutral?
I only ask cause mine does not. But, im not sure if that is normal or not with no load. I am trying to determine if my BOV is even working .. I think I may have purchased an overkill BOV (bigger is not always better) I got the TurboXS Type-H rated at 10-30 PSI. I cannot hear it during shifts .. I’m not real sure if that’s cause it’s not going off, or if it’s cause my car is so damn loud
I have already pulled it apart and trimmed the spring twice, I'm scared to clip anymore off ... I don't want it to leak boost.
I have already pulled it apart and trimmed the spring twice, I'm scared to clip anymore off ... I don't want it to leak boost.
Last edited by Rpeck; 01-20-04 at 08:20 PM.
01-20-04, 08:40 PM
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Originally posted by Pinfield357
my greddy will go off in neutral and durning light driving
my greddy will go off in neutral and durning light driving
you say Blitz in your sig
01-20-04, 08:52 PM
#5
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some BOVs are quieter than others...do a search, I remember a thread not all that long ago about how loud various ones are. If your still not sure, there's gotta be a way to test it, hopefully someone with more experience with them will elaborate.
01-20-04, 09:44 PM
#7
hmm, you think I should trim the spring more? what RPM's will it go off at in neutral?
Trimming the coil spring could RAISE the spring rate of the WGspring.
Fewer coils in the spring, so now the each coil has to rotate through more degrees of torsion.
Just like cut coil springs on a car suspension will provide a harsh, jumpy ride.
- unless you only cut "dead" springs (those compressed at rest).
I have the Greddy Type S and on its softest settings it discharges in neutral from about a 1,500rpm let-off and remains open and warbling when cruising down hills (high engine vacuum). On the hardest settings it won't discharge untill ~3,000rpm let-off in neutral.
I have it set-up as vacuum pull open only, though there are provisions for push pull actuation which would probably solve my high vacuum cruising opening.
Trimming the coil spring could RAISE the spring rate of the WGspring.
Fewer coils in the spring, so now the each coil has to rotate through more degrees of torsion.
Just like cut coil springs on a car suspension will provide a harsh, jumpy ride.
- unless you only cut "dead" springs (those compressed at rest).
I have the Greddy Type S and on its softest settings it discharges in neutral from about a 1,500rpm let-off and remains open and warbling when cruising down hills (high engine vacuum). On the hardest settings it won't discharge untill ~3,000rpm let-off in neutral.
I have it set-up as vacuum pull open only, though there are provisions for push pull actuation which would probably solve my high vacuum cruising opening.
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how is that possible?
01-20-04, 11:18 PM
#9
bov ftw
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I also have the Type-H, but the only way I can get it to blow off in nuetral is if I rev the motor pretty damn high. Driving is a completely different story of course. You should be able to hear the type-h during shifts. That's for damn sure!
01-20-04, 11:39 PM
#11
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I have the RFL and without using any washers, it would make noise in neutral revving to 3500rpm. But without a washer, the valve would remain open for too long. I put in one washer, and the bov opens in neutral at 4000rpm, and it sounds just right now.
01-21-04, 12:16 AM
#15
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
^ same with the 2 guys above me. I have to get up to redline almost. I forget how much boost it is but it shouldnt be more a few pounds. I'll check next time.
Maybe you could be leaking boost or have the wrong spring? Just a guess.
Maybe you could be leaking boost or have the wrong spring? Just a guess.
01-21-04, 12:41 AM
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I have a Turbonetics and I can build 1 bar in neutral and it will go 
and without anti-lag it still goes in neutral.... as did my vented stock and my HKS SSQBOV on my rotaries, also heard the blitz DD and gurdy type R go at neutral off a rotary....the turboXS is one of the loudest valves on the market, and they are very good at that, get a new spring and start over.
and without anti-lag it still goes in neutral.... as did my vented stock and my HKS SSQBOV on my rotaries, also heard the blitz DD and gurdy type R go at neutral off a rotary....the turboXS is one of the loudest valves on the market, and they are very good at that, get a new spring and start over.
01-21-04, 01:13 AM
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I have a Turbonetics and I can build 1 bar in neutral and it will go and without anti-lag it still goes in neutral.... as did my vented stock and my HKS SSQBOV on my rotaries, also heard the blitz DD and gurdy type R go at neutral off a rotary....the turboXS is one of the loudest valves on the market, and they are very good at that, get a new spring and start over.
and without anti-lag it still goes in neutral.... as did my vented stock and my HKS SSQBOV on my rotaries, also heard the blitz DD and gurdy type R go at neutral off a rotary....the turboXS is one of the loudest valves on the market, and they are very good at that, get a new spring and start over.
01-21-04, 01:36 AM
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Originally posted by Audiogod007
the turboXS is one of the loudest valves on the market, and they are very good at that, get a new spring and start over.
the turboXS is one of the loudest valves on the market, and they are very good at that, get a new spring and start over.
I am not sure if you guys understand the operations of the turboXS BOV compared to the others. I am not familiar with any other models. But here is a picture I just threw together to explain what I have done.
Facts;
My BOV still holds all my boost pressure, and does not leak at any level I am running.
I cannot hear my BOV or see it function at idle.
I don't think I am hearing it under boost while shifting, but I cannot tell do to the exhaust noise of my car
The type H is rated for 10-30 PSI, I am running 8 & 12 PSI.
The adjustment on thsi BOV to add tension if it is leaking is to add, one of the 10 washers it came with to the end of the spring to compress it more. thus requireing more pressure to make it leak, correct?
I cut the spring with the idea that less tension holding the presure plunger out would allow it to release under less boost. It is a sound theroy, and I don't see how this would not help.
okay now, on to the artwork
Last edited by Rpeck; 01-21-04 at 01:53 AM.
01-21-04, 03:11 AM
#22
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BTW, when I got my RFL brand new, the piston was stuck closed! That could be a reason why your valve doesn't seem to be making noise... because it's not even opening! I just greased it up with some synthetic grease between the piston and the bov body. Now it works beautifully!
01-21-04, 09:34 AM
#23
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i think that really depends if u built boost or not while you're idling.. some people i have seen have extremely ported stock wastegates and it causes to run boost more easily, specially in idle and yes the blow off will go off in neutral... just my experience
01-21-04, 10:53 AM
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Originally posted by Infini IV
BTW, when I got my RFL brand new, the piston was stuck closed! That could be a reason why your valve doesn't seem to be making noise... because it's not even opening!
BTW, when I got my RFL brand new, the piston was stuck closed! That could be a reason why your valve doesn't seem to be making noise... because it's not even opening!
I think you are right about it not even opening though .. but I don't think the reason is that it's stuck .. I think it is over powered. Keep in mind I still have this BOV mounted where the stock BOV was (kinda smal hole) until I put my FMIC in.
I could care less about the noise, I am not looking for bling factor, I just want to be sure I am not causing compressor surge on my new turbo everytime I drive, I want the BOV to do it's job, thats all. And I have no real way to test it unless I can get it to go off in neutral. My car is just too fukin loud to listen for it.
-Robert