SAiamNE

Well lately had a problem with the check engine light going on and off..
It only seems to come on once the engine is warmed up, never cold/being warmed up.
It only wants to come on "somtimes" at idle, and pretty much anytime i am downshifting or have my foot of the gas in gear. But as soon as i touch the gas again the light goes off and everything seems good..
When im coasting in gear with my foot of the gas sometimes i can hear a small mis-fire.
I pulled the codes and it said TPS and some emissions junk. So i adjusted the TPS to 1kohm and nothing has changed at all..

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

When you set the ohms, check the sweep of the TPS. Watch the ohm meter as you move the throttle. It should sweep cleanly. No drops, no spike, just a smooth transition throughout the throttle travel. If it is smooth tps ok. I would set the tps with the Mazda check connector, just to give it a try. Check the BAC valve for internal leaks to be sure it's ok.

SAiamNE

Where is the BAC valve? Does anyone have a picture or a detailed writing of what it looks like and where it's located?

Thanks...

SAiamNE

Never mind i am downloading the FSM right now..
Thanks

SAiamNE

I pulled the codes and got # 12 & 33...
I can't find a listing as to what these #'s mean... I've searched for the last 15mins and cannot find a list..

13b4me

12 = full range throttle sensor open or short circuit

33 = port air bypass solenoid open or short circuit

SAiamNE

So does error code #12 confirm my TPS is bad? Should i start looking for a used working TPS somewhere?

What is Port Air bypass solenoid.. That sounds like emissions. Is that something to be worried about?

ilike2eatricers

Do like turbonut said and check the resistance through the wires again and slowly pull on the throttle cable to see if there are any dead spots or spots that spike high. Also check for any visible damage to the wires.