How the hell do I adjust camber on the back end of my car? (1990 T2) I have the camber link, but it only allows camber adjustment of the whole rear end, not the individual wheels (they aren't the same!) Where is the adjustment for this? The factory manual makes no mention of it, and I searched the 2nd gen archive to no avail. any ideas?

 

there is no way to adjust it from the factory, that's why you need the link. how far off is it?

you can also get the little adjustable links that bolt to each control arm. those will move each one a little bit. so you'd center the camber with the big one. and make small changes to the little links. I'm not sure where to get those. probably mazdatrix.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm how much different?????

 

k2rd.com has one as well. I think it runs about $60.00 or so...

 

If the camber is different form side to side on the rear I would suspect something is bent or one of the rear camber links are wore out. From the factory only the toe is adjustable. If you are sure there is no damage or any bent parts you might try slotting the strut towers to get a little movement out of them even thou there probably isin't enough room to move them much but it may be worth a try. With the factory service manual you might be able to measure specific points on the rear end and isolate any differences from side to side that could couse the camber difference.

 

They're off a lot... I currently have -0.9 degrees on the left rear wheel and -3.3 on the right! That's a good thought about those two tiny links (factory manual calls them sub links, but mazdatrix calls them camber links) They're cheap enough... Couldn't you replace them with a pair of rod ends threaded together to change the camber? That would work, I think...

hmmm interesting, here is what mazdatrix has to say about the small camber links "This (two per car) link goes on the rear control arm, forward, inboard end/pivot. When they go bad, you get an minor, irritating "clunking" from the rear when going over bumps. They seem to wear out most often on convertibles -- must just be the extra weight in the rear?"

I was getting a clunk in the rear at the racetrack, and my diff is welded, so it's not a broken diff mount (sounds different than how my diff mount sounded too)

Or I could intentionally drift it into a curb to put some positive camber adjustment on it! hehehe...

 

If you have negative 3 degrees on one side there is definetly something wrong. Could be the lower control arm is bent but be sure about the control links and pull them off for a good visual inspeciton.

 

if there off by that much something is wrong!! proabbly something bent somewhere..

that's what I was talking about. but I've seen someone sell adjustable link ones. you won't get 2 degree change out of it though!! it's for like a few tenths of a degree.

 

Either side could be the bad one though... not necessarily the one with the 3 degrees. Because before I got the suspension put in, the car was much higher, and that side had normal camber and the left side actually had a touch of positive camber. So it might be the left one that's bad, with not enough negative camber. I'm gonna check the control links this weekend...

If I can at least get the camber equal I'll be happy, because then I can adjust it with the big adjuster that tilts the subframe...

 

take it to a shop with a frame machine. I used to work with one you can pull one side and fix it. We had to do the same thing with alot of totaled cars that came in. You go back and forth between the frmae machine and the alinment rack intill it's right. It can be done it's just finding someone who will do it.

 

I have to bend my car? argh. I'll try a few things first, like replacing the little links ($15 bucks each) trying some new trailing arms, and even a junkyard subframe before I try to bend the whole car... heh

thanks for the input though everyone

 

Old thread but, when you look up on Google this is the first thread you see.

I was curious after I diagnosed my issues with posts on foreign sites, As I noticed my rear camber arm was some POS, and was most likely a cheap implement with no science causing added camber when the idea behind the part was to aid. Notably my control links aren't use to being slammed.

Best read up was on this Poweredbymax website parts introduction which states all facts you really need to know to come to a solid conclusion.