remove it, reduces weight,the dam thing is heavy, allows more power to the wheels, and makes engine compartment cleaner looking. then roll down the windows.

 

Yes, I am using the stock airbox. And no, I'm not going to remove it to save weight. My car is a daily driver and where I live, it gets to be just over 100F in the summer with high humidity. This summer, we're also getting swarmed by locusts so I'd really like to get my A/C working

 

you might be right, but I recall a situation in my car where the A/C, cigarette lighter, and dashboard clock all stopped working. I found a 10A fuse in the box by the driver's kick panel that was dead. replaced it, and all that stuff came on instantly.

 

Wait, what? Yeah, the dash clock went out recently too. ****, going to check fuses! I'll let you know. What fuse, do you know?

 

Yes, it was indeed blown. Going to check to see if the A/C works.

 

any good news?

 

If he didn't want to keep it, he wouldn't have asked for help to fix it. A/C uses no engine power at all when switched off, and rolling down the windows will do jack for humid conditions or foggy windows.

Some of us like to be able to choose between a cool, dry breeze or a blast of warm, humid air.

 

Thanks so much for your help everyone. I replaced the fuse and the clock came on! Yes, I never realized how much I missed that thing! As far as the A/C goes, it seemed just too cold to really tell if it went on. It was like 55 today, so I couldn't really tell ... Tomorrow it's supposed to be in the late 70s so I'll give it a shot then. I have my fingers crossed.

In the mean time, what does freon look like? I couldn't see anything in that little viewer window... It was either a solid clear something, or no bubbles...

 

The fuse you replaced (10A CIGAR) powered the A/C compressor clutch, so that's probably why it wasn't working.

If you can't see bubbles in the sight glass there's either no gas or enough gas. Turn the fan and A/C on and see if the compressor engages. If there's no gas the low-pressure switch won't let the compressor engage, so you'll know you need to have it recharged. If it works okay, your A/C is fixed.

 

I hear the compressor engage for sure. The car gets the little blip at idle. Does that mean that there's enough gas?

 

The blip is probably just the BAC valve bumping up the idle like it's supposed to.

You need to eyeball the compressor with the engine running. When the clutch is disengaged the middle part is stationary (you can spin it by hand with the engine off), and when it engages it spins. It should cycle on and off a few times per minute.

If you can see the compressor spinning, and there are no bubbles visable in the sight glass after the system has been running for ~5 minutes, then you're good to go.

You started the thread by saying it's blowing warm. Make sure it's not heater problem.

 

How could I tell? The heater worked fine in the winter.

 

You said it was blowing warm, so the heater might be on when it's not supposed to. This could be a stuck heater valve or a Logicon problem.

Does it actually blow warm or did you mean it just didn't get any colder with the A/C on?

 

Where is woosa. Hot Shot [name brand] is a "drop in replacement for R-12 it is number is r-414b Do not discharge it into the air! There is a low pressure switch up front beside the sight glass. Unplug this and install a jumper between the terminals, this will verify the low charge condition. It is not recommended to leave it jumpered out.

 

It just didn't get any colder.
What does installing that jumper do?

 

The low pressure switch cuts the A/C if refrigerant pressure drops too low. If the A/C doesn't work with the pressure switch plugged in, but it does work with the pressure switch unplugged and the plug jumpered (simulating good pressure), then it's obviously low on gas.

You only need to do this for a second or two to confirm one way or the other. Running the compressor with low pressure will eventually damage it.

 

Yeah, i double checked it. Definitely no colder. Nothing in the window. I'll do the jumper to test. Probly gonna take it to a shop that is licenced for r12 thanks everyone

 

Oooh.... a fuse controls compressor clutch, clock, and cigarette lighter??!?!?!?!

Clock is out on mine, lighter doesnt work, and A/C is no good...... sounds like I have a bad fuse on my hands

Too bad the car is getting checked by an A/C tech, so its not at home with me.

 

yeah, i still haven't had mine looked at. i guess i might eventually.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AEOT%3AUS%3A3
I just ordered that. Should I use the leak stop, or should i have a shop look at it, then fill it up myself?

 

wow, your one of the few FC people that I know that have a/c still, most of the people I know take everything out except the necessary stuff.

 

one acronym... two words... DD... Daily Driver... well... i drive it once every couple of days.

 

My 'vert is my DD, and yes, i just paid ludicrous amounts of money to have it fixed. After multiple failures (replaced compressor/filter drier, then had the pressure switch cracked and vented the system, then upon replacing THAT, I blew a hose) I am happy as HELL to have a working A/C in humidity hell known as florida.
Now I have a completely new system, converted to r134a, and it freaking blows ice chunks at me. Good thing I plan on keeping this car until I die- otherwise I couldn't justify the expense. It is still cheaper than buying a new car that I know I wouldn't love nearly as much as my seven.

If you want to gain a few measly horses by yanking your a/c, go on, you hardcore freak you, but my old *** likes the cool air.

 

Whether or not it's "necessary" doesn't really matter, and is only a matter of opinion. Some of us want A/C, and consider it worth every pound.

 

Real race cars make 500 hp, with AC.