a/c p/s removal?
a/c p/s removal?
i searched through all the threads and have a good idea of how to get it all out but have a couple questions. when i pull one of the p/s lines off, how much fluid is going to come out and is it under pressure. dont want to blast crap all over the floor. and with the p/s it was never realy clear on whether or not to put a different lube in like gear oil or grease to help from damaging the rack. is there any order for the best way to remove the p/s? like wich lines to disconnect first?
for the a/c i just went and shoved a screw driver in the release valve to see if it was pressurized and it didnt do anything, is there a special tool to release it or should it have hissed when i used the screwdriver? Im getting ready to pull the stuff out rite now so any tips are appreciated
for the a/c i just went and shoved a screw driver in the release valve to see if it was pressurized and it didnt do anything, is there a special tool to release it or should it have hissed when i used the screwdriver? Im getting ready to pull the stuff out rite now so any tips are appreciated
I removed all that stuff from my car, the a/c make sure you vent out all the crap with a screwdriver like you said, if not you'll have gooey freon in your engine bay. I wouldn't remove the power steering untill you get a manual steering rack. You "can" use the ps one but I've read you have to like circulate the lines together or it will damage it over time. Manual racks can turn sharper too, so if u like drifting it would be better off. I'm sure you'll get better info off someone else, last when I removed my ps lines it shot out alittle bit but I had a antifreeze jug w/ the top cut off to catch it. Then radiator looking thing for the a/c was a bitch to get out of my car, hopefully it will be easier for you.
it's pretty streight forward... just a lot of work. if i were to do it again i would've had a manual rack to swap in. it would've saved a lot of time and trips to the hardware store and i hated driving with the damn p/s rack without the p/s. hope this helps:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=removal+rack
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=removal+rack
ya ive already read that thread. I am keeping the p/s rack, quicker turning. i do a lot of higher speed corners so i think i would like the p/s rack better.
in that thread there are some people that plugged the holes with bolts and others that looped the line to let the stuff circulate, I'm not sure wich is better but if i just loop the line how do i connect it?
in that thread there are some people that plugged the holes with bolts and others that looped the line to let the stuff circulate, I'm not sure wich is better but if i just loop the line how do i connect it?
Originally Posted by Mint87RX7
for the a/c i just went and shoved a screw driver in the release valve to see if it was pressurized and it didnt do anything, is there a special tool to release it or should it have hissed when i used the screwdriver? Im getting ready to pull the stuff out rite now so any tips are appreciated
Take it to a a/c shop and have the refrigerant removed. Don't be a butthole.
and a question on the p/s, after getting the main pulley off, how the hell do you get the 3 mounting bolts off behind it? you cant fit a box-end on them because of the pulley spindle and an open end is just bending
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well my a/c was completely empty so it wasnt a problem. got all the crap out now i just have to know how exactly to loop the lines. I think i plug the cooler line (rubber one) and loop the 2 metal pressure lines, how exactly do i hook them to eachother?

edit: they are two different sizes so im not exactly sure how to connect them

edit: they are two different sizes so im not exactly sure how to connect them
Last edited by Mint87RX7; Mar 23, 2005 at 11:29 PM.
and like i asked before, should i get rid of all the ATF and fill the rack with gear oil for better lubrication or just keep the atf? and would thicker oil have any difference in how hard it is to turn the wheels?
Originally Posted by Icemark
Don't be a butthole.
Your power steering system may have pressure in the lines....however just place a pan under the area of the pump and carefully loosen the lines. if you see bubbles forcing their way out then stop right there and allow the pressure to release on its own. There is about 24 oz. of fliud in the system and you won't get it all out. So a small pan should work fine.
The Rack change thing will have to come from somebody that knows something (unlike me, who knows nothing).
no i keeping the same rack, i just have to know what the best way is to do this. whether to plug the lines with bolts, loop the lines(what im working on right now), and what type of lube to use or just to keep the ATF in there
edit: as you can see in the pic, i already have everything out. now im just puting it back together
edit: as you can see in the pic, i already have everything out. now im just puting it back together
Last edited by Mint87RX7; Mar 24, 2005 at 12:44 PM.
I've been looking at this for quite a while and I think the best way is going to be to remove the lines from the rack body and loop them. Then plug the holes in the valve body with bolts. That way you keep the fluid in the rack and minimize the path that the ps fluid has to travel while you're turning the vehicle. No offense meant, but I think the main reason people complain about de-powered racks is they're leaving too much of the fluid path in place and creating undue drag...


