p/s question

i have removed my power steering and installed a manual rack but i don't hear the buzzing sound everyone says when p/s is removed you know how the p/s computer needs to be removed well yeah no sound. i'm pretty sure my buzzer is broken how do i go about fixing this?

another question is when switching to manual rack an alignment is a must right? because my car does turn odd when i turn right but not left.

a/c question

i have also removed my a/c compressor, lines, dryer, condenser. my question is if i remove the "blower" from under the dash will my heater still work and "blow"? i am not planning on putting a/c back so i don't want dead weight in my car.

thanks for the help.

 

Yes, an alignment is a good idea but that's probably not the problem here.
Jack up the front of the car and loosen the rack mount bolts.
Turn the wheel full lock right to left and back then retighten the brackets.
See if that doesn't help.


You won't be touching the fan, so yes, the heater will work fine.
In between the blower motor assembly and the main heater box is the AC evaporator...that's what you'll be removing.
It's in a plastic enclosure that you must keep (unless you have the non-AC duct) because it acts as the bridge between the blower fan and the heater core.

Not terribly hard to do.

 

Your buzzer is broke and NOT going off since you changed the Steering from power to Manual..and you want to FIX it?..
WHY?/you'll just get the Annoying buzzer going!...consider it fixed and forget about it.(usually you have to remove the PS ecu to stop the buzzer).
You need to realign the front end( recommended) when you change racks.
Ac Removal.: get rid of the Ac Crap under the Dash(passenger side) .the Blower motor is not to be removed as it is part of the Heater/fan system..and Unless it is a Race car,it is needed to "certify/safety" the car.( need a Clear view from the cabin,in Foul weather/fog..operational wipers too.)

 

thanks i will try that hope fully it works. and to explain more it doesn't feel like i'm turning in a straight line. maybe i'm still getting used to it. but i will work on it some more.

well i know the buzzer is there to warn the driver of something that is wrong. i will remove the p/s computer but i want to fix the buzzer instead of doing it half ***.

 

What that little exercise addresses is binding of the steering column u-joints.
With the rack loose, turning the wheels will "normalize" the rack/u-joints, allowing full and unfettered rotation in both directions.
When I swapped the manual rack into the FD the big tipoff that I had binding was the turning radius- she'd turn fine to the right but the radius of a left turn was about 30% greater.

It's not hard to do and it's free, so well worth a shot.

 

do you think it might have to do with the way i installed it cause what i did was

connect it to the steering column with out bolting it down.

turn the steering wheel all the way to the left

connect the left side to the rack measured 3/4 inch in and tightened bolt

then turn the steering wheel all the way to the right

connected the right side to the rack measured 3/4 inch in and tightened bolt

centered the wheels as straight as possible

released rack from steering column and aligned steering wheel so it wouldn't be off centered

bolted down the one bolt connecting to the steering column

then bolted down the 6 bolts holding down the rack

then bolted the sway bar back on

see any problems there with what i did?

 

I'm not seeing what you're describing here.
Connect the 'left/right/side" of what to where on the rack?
What are you measuring and tightening?

 

yeah sorry i'm not familiar with the parts name but i looked it up

what i measured was the inner tie rod because there was a lug nut and i wanted both sides measured the same distance from the lug nut to the end of the thread.

then turned the rack full lock to the right and connected the right outer tie rod to the inner tie rod

then turned the rack full lock to the left and connected the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod

hope that makes sense.

 

I'm not 100% on this, but I think the important buzzer(redline/low oil/low coolant) and the P/S buzzer/beeper are separate entities. Do you still get the buzzer at redline?

 

well since this threads already here....if i remove the a/c and all its components will i still be able to put the power steering pump where it needs to be or am i going to have to move it somewhere else?

 

i have yet to redline but my low coolant light is 'on' on the warning cluster and my low washer fluid light is also 'on' but there is no buzzer active when those lights are on. and the lights are on because the wire to the radiator is cut so i need to find a replacement and the radiator is full i verified.

yes you can remove the compressor without touching the power steering pump. there is a black bottle looking thing in front of the radiator remove that is the dryer. you can also remove the condenser which looks like a small radiator located between the oil cooler and the radiator. you will have to unbolt and lower the oil cooler to remove the condenser. remove all a/c lines. and BE CAREFUL REMOVING YOUR A/C SYSTEM IT IS DANGEROUS AND ILLEGAL TO DRAIN R12. THAT **** WILL GIVE YOU FROST BITE.

 

Yeah, there should be a very loud annoying buzzer if the coolant light is on. The washer fluid light doesn't trigger the buzzer though. That buzzer is inside the instrument panel somewhere.

 

yes you can remove the compressor without touching the power steering pump. there is a black bottle looking thing in front of the radiator remove that is the dryer. you can also remove the condenser which looks like a small radiator located between the oil cooler and the radiator. you will have to unbolt and lower the oil cooler to remove the condenser. remove all a/c lines. and BE CAREFUL REMOVING YOUR A/C SYSTEM IT IS DANGEROUS AND ILLEGAL TO DRAIN R12. THAT **** WILL GIVE YOU FROST BITE.[/QUOTE]


thanks man..the a/c lines are already cut so im not worried about draining the r12 though ill probably be doing that this weekend