88 NA GXL, I jsut want an all round dependable plug, what should I get, I heard I could get 4 of the same if I wanted too, just let me know what you run or reccomend.

 

The absolute best is the NGK VX Platinum plugs, since it keeps its sharp electrode edge longer and so has better power over a longer period of time. If your car is fairly stock, get the stock setup with "7" for leading and "9" for the trailing. I got a T2 with mods boosting 12lbs, so I'm running "9s" all the way around.

 

Platinum plugs suck!!! get the normal ones for your car. two 7's and two 9's.

 

what should I get?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

 

get the stock NGK, 7s for leading and 9s for trailing. Don't get the platinum ones. The 7s are a hotter spark, so you will get more power (very little power I might add) than running four of the 9 plugs if you go with two 7s and two 9s.

People that run 9s all around are doing so because the spark on a 9 is colder, less chance for detonation on a fairly modded, turbo car.

This is one case where the stock part is what you need...


Nick Barnett
1990 T2
9s all around (putting colder motorcycle plugs in tomorrow )
Some Mods

 

I have 7's all around.

 

You don't need platinum and you don't need weird configurations.

Get (2) NGK BUR 7EQ's
and (2) NGK BUR 9EQ's

Listen to Kurgan and Scott.

 

You are all wrong

I personally LOVE Denso Iridium Plugs now!!! I bought brand new NGKs before my motor blew, they were good....but I installed Denso iridium plugs in my buddy's MR2 and it felt a lot smoother, not to mention it starts and idles great. My trip to the track over the summer...I spoke w/ the DENSO rep and he said that they are doing ALL of the new mazda's now, and that the racing rx7s(AKA Abel) is using them...there is a downside...they cost about $11 a plug, but oh well..they're going in my GT-X!

 

The fact is that platinum plugs take more spark energy to fire. Which in my opinion is use the stocks.

 

I'm running NGK BUR 7EQ's all around. Why use 9's for trailing instead of 7's?

Yeah, 9's are a colder plug, right? What effect does this have on the engine?

I just changed my plugs last week. The leadings on the old ones looked like they were running fine, light colored, but not lean. The trailing plugs looked like they were running rich, a lot of black with only a few light colored spots. I would think that if my trailing plugs were too hot then they would be a much lighter color than they are.

I can see the consideration for pre-ignition as a good reason for using colder plugs in the trailing holes, but n/a cars don't really have to worry about that so much as turbo cars do.

If my analysis is incorrect please point it out. I'd like to know if I'm wrong on this one.

 

N/A cars do not have to worry about colder plugs.....unless you got a supercharger or some serious porting.

 

BACK From The Dead....>>Updated for today's technology<<

I was hunting around and found this thread. Thought I'd up date the info for anyone else that stumbles in.

For boosted car's, time to drop the stock 9's all around. Sense the Iridium plugs, I've put them to the test on everything. (offroad bikes, 2 & 4 cylinder on road bikes, My truck, and rotary's. I've concluded that the Denso Iridium plugs just plain rule! On 2-stroke applications were a heavy per-mix is used, their performance & longevity floored me!! I'd normally change plugs every 2-5 hours of ride time but with the Denso Iridium, I've done over 20 hours on the same plug, no problem. With a kick start, it was clear how much Easier the machines started & completed the burn more efficiently. In cold weather using the "performance" non-Iridium plugs, it's common to have to pre-heat the cylinder before the bikes would fire. Again with the Denso Iridium, this was no longer necessary.

We had a GSX-R with some type of ignition problem that was causing the 1 cylinder not to fire. After replacing the coils, wires, new plugs, ignition box, etc, nothing help. Now and again it would fire randomly for no reason when it was hot, under a hard load but only for a second or 2, then die again. We pulled the new plugs and replaced them with Denso Iridium's...BAM...It came back on the 1st start. 3 Oil changes latter & it's still going strong without a hick-up.

In my rotary's, the engines started quicker, smother idle, a tad better MPG. This is with one engine using a CDI on the leading and the other engine just stock ignition. Same results on my 5.9L truck. The difference is as plain as day for me. The plug it's self cost more but in the end, paid for them selves.

As for a electrode busting off into the engine, never happened to me. Both boosted and non. If it honestly did for someone else, (stated above) I doubt the plug failed but rather something else causing it to give way. Detonation will take out a apex seal and will have no problem taking a plug with it.

Remember, if you're looking for more HP, you MAY get a tad from using the Denso Iridium's but it's NOT a reason to use them. It's all about a more precise burn.

 

BACK From The Dead....>>Updated for today's technology<<

I was hunting around and found this thread. Thought I'd up date the info for anyone else that stumbles in.

For boosted car's, time to drop the stock 9's all around. Sense the Iridium plugs, I've put them to the test on everything. (offroad bikes, 2 & 4 cylinder on road bikes, My truck, and rotary's. I've concluded that the Denso Iridium plugs just plain rule! On 2-stroke applications were a heavy per-mix is used, their performance & longevity floored me!! I'd normally change plugs every 2-5 hours of ride time but with the Denso Iridium, I've done over 20 hours on the same plug, no problem. With a kick start, it was clear how much Easier the machines started & completed the burn more efficiently. In cold weather using the "performance" non-Iridium plugs, it's common to have to pre-heat the cylinder before the bikes would fire. Again with the Denso Iridium, this was no longer necessary.

We had a GSX-R with some type of ignition problem that was causing the 1 cylinder not to fire. After replacing the coils, wires, new plugs, ignition box, etc, nothing help. Now and again it would fire randomly for no reason when it was hot, under a hard load but only for a second or 2, then die again. We pulled the new plugs and replaced them with Denso Iridium's...BAM...It came back on the 1st start. 3 Oil changes latter & it's still going strong without a hick-up.

In my rotary's, the engines started quicker, smother idle, a tad better MPG. This is with one engine using a CDI on the leading and the other engine just stock ignition. Same results on my 5.9L truck. The difference is as plain as day for me. The plug it's self cost more but in the end, paid for them selves.

As for a electrode busting off into the engine, never happened to me. Both boosted and non. If it honestly did for someone else, (stated above) I doubt the plug failed but rather something else causing it to give way. Detonation will take out a apex seal and will have no problem taking a plug with it.

Remember, if you're looking for more HP, you MAY get a tad from using the Denso Iridium's but it's NOT a reason to use them. It's all about a more precise burn.

 

If it burns rice there is only one name NGK. Get them from advanced auto, 2 year free replacement no questions asked.

 

yep, that is why I have been using and suggesting Iridiums for the 13B for at least a year now

 

How much do the Iridiums run for?

I've been using NGK's and hey work fine for me.

 

So what would one recommend for someone who's running a street ported motor on premix and using Jacobs Rotary Pak? Motor will be dropped in the car within the next week or so and need to buy a new set of plugs

 

$30-$35 a plug

 

30-35 a plug is insane. Four NGK 9s. Thats what I run for my TII. No problems and considerably cheaper than the Denso plugs.

 

and see I think $2000 for a Turbo kit for a non turbo is insane.

But the Iridiums last at least 4 times longer, have a better spark, and less spark break up.

Worth every penny in my book