Burnout Attempt
#1
s4 Tails for Life!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Burnout Attempt
I searched and really didn't find anything... my friends just say my little N/A FC doesn't have enough power / torque to burnout. I never can get it and neither could one of my friends (who goes to the strip often with his 89 mustang... he knows how to burnout...) I just get pathetic wheel hop every time...
So... is there a trick to burning out in an N/A FC? (Stock... hehe.) Or do I just need more power?
Like I said, I searched for "burnout" and didn't find any relevant threads...
Thanks,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
So... is there a trick to burning out in an N/A FC? (Stock... hehe.) Or do I just need more power?
Like I said, I searched for "burnout" and didn't find any relevant threads...
Thanks,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
#2
WON'T FORGET DAVE
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Twin Cites
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i got an 85 gs witha 12a in it. it's got over 200k on it and i can smoke the wheels throught most of first and second. or i can get a good stand still going if i'm feelin it........but no 13b tire spin........hummm.......
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
i know in my stock 85 GSL (105hp) w/ LSD and bigger decent tires that it wouldnt hold a brakestand and would just be overwhelmed by grip and stall out if i didnt catch the clutch.
However, it would do donuts like a bat outta hell. Guess the LSD helped, but the spinning overcomes grip quite well
my t2 on the other hand has no problem
warm up car to full operating temperature
release e-brake
place foot on clutch
shift into first gear
put half of foot on brake
use toe of foot to give gas and get it a little under redline and hold it there
release clutch quickly
modulate throttle to keep RPMs high and still hold on brakes, you can modulate the brake too to start rolling while doing a brakestand
If you're having trouble with that and your car doesnt have enough torque to keep them spinning like my GSL had a problem with, just do donuts! They're way more fun
Just turn your wheel a little, step on the clutch, rev just below redline, release clutch quickly and let it spin around, you can countersteer to go in tighter/looser circles or to change direction. Just keep giving it gas so it doesnt start to grip, and remember to keep it off of redline
Also remember that doing donuts and burnouts is very hard on your car, the clutch, the tires, etc etc. Especially the motor, because you arent getting any airflow because you arent moving and because the air is filled w/ tire smoke. And your oil is also on one side of the pan and might starve your motor if its low enough or you do donuts for too long. Same with your tranny, my friend blew out his first gear synchos doing AWD snow donuts in his WRX
-Ben Martin
However, it would do donuts like a bat outta hell. Guess the LSD helped, but the spinning overcomes grip quite well
my t2 on the other hand has no problem
warm up car to full operating temperature
release e-brake
place foot on clutch
shift into first gear
put half of foot on brake
use toe of foot to give gas and get it a little under redline and hold it there
release clutch quickly
modulate throttle to keep RPMs high and still hold on brakes, you can modulate the brake too to start rolling while doing a brakestand
If you're having trouble with that and your car doesnt have enough torque to keep them spinning like my GSL had a problem with, just do donuts! They're way more fun
Just turn your wheel a little, step on the clutch, rev just below redline, release clutch quickly and let it spin around, you can countersteer to go in tighter/looser circles or to change direction. Just keep giving it gas so it doesnt start to grip, and remember to keep it off of redline
Also remember that doing donuts and burnouts is very hard on your car, the clutch, the tires, etc etc. Especially the motor, because you arent getting any airflow because you arent moving and because the air is filled w/ tire smoke. And your oil is also on one side of the pan and might starve your motor if its low enough or you do donuts for too long. Same with your tranny, my friend blew out his first gear synchos doing AWD snow donuts in his WRX
-Ben Martin
#6
Rick James
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Under The Hood In FL
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your car is just getting stuck in limbo. The tires are biting to hard & with the stock bushings, etc, hop is bound to happen. You can normally push go through the hop point if you really wanted. Buy cheaper tires, it'll happen like pie. But, now the over all performance is the car was killed a little.
You could always poor some bleach on the ground.
You could always poor some bleach on the ground.
#7
AutoX Donut Maker
My 86 GXL tears all kinds of **** up, no matter what tires are on it. The 87 GXL however bites harder than a son of a bitch and eats clutch. I'm hoping that it's just the clutch that sucks, however as I put more miles on the car (it had been sitting a while) it's slowly getting more torque (if that's even possible). My 86 has less overall power, but it seems to have alot more torque than the 87.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: King, NC
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeh, it is not anything to do with power, my brother's 85 gs had a severe lack of power like, a blown rotor or something, and it would still spin, my guess is just it is the LSD rear, mine is the same way, rev it up drop the clutch, and a little chirp and some wheel hop and im gone.
#9
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
#10
XBL** Ownicus
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: St. Paul, Minnnesota
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
#13
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
Last edited by 88rxn/a; 01-31-06 at 11:06 AM.
#14
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (4)
i did a few wicked ones just before i changed the rear tires (225's BTW) I did this
1. over inflate the rear tires (40-45psi) make sure both tires are the same though
2. get to the burnout location with an oil squirting can and spray the rear brake rotors, inside and out <--- i may get flamed for this
3. make shure the car is warm
4. put in first, redline it, and dump the clutch
5. as soon as ur foot leaves the clutch hit the brake *note, it is important to keep it floored at this piont* keep just enough pressure on the brake to keep it from rolling
6. let off the gas a lil if you get really close to redline
7. remember to watch your temp gauge and idiot lights in case u blow a hose
8. you MUST have a friend with a video cammera recording.
1. over inflate the rear tires (40-45psi) make sure both tires are the same though
2. get to the burnout location with an oil squirting can and spray the rear brake rotors, inside and out <--- i may get flamed for this
3. make shure the car is warm
4. put in first, redline it, and dump the clutch
5. as soon as ur foot leaves the clutch hit the brake *note, it is important to keep it floored at this piont* keep just enough pressure on the brake to keep it from rolling
6. let off the gas a lil if you get really close to redline
7. remember to watch your temp gauge and idiot lights in case u blow a hose
8. you MUST have a friend with a video cammera recording.
#16
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by ProjectR13B
i can do small burn outs in my 88 gxl. sadly enough though, my honda accord can do better burnouts, but they are one wheeled.... and its a honda. thats the major problems with that
#17
King of the Loop
Originally Posted by ProjectR13B
i can do small burn outs in my 88 gxl. sadly enough though, my honda accord can do better burnouts, but they are one wheeled.... and its a honda. thats the major problems with that
Wella ny frotn wheel drive car can do good burnout, since you can apply the handbrake its not really battling traction even nearly as bad. My boys 89 accord (98 hp) did burnouts till the the metal threads were exposed and the street melted.
#18
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
IMHO - Donuts or a long burnout is something you only do after the tires are worn out, and while you're on your way to the tire store for the next set.
For me, that's about once a year.
For me, that's about once a year.
Last edited by SureShot; 01-31-06 at 11:33 AM.
#19
s4 Tails for Life!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SureShot
IMHO - Donuts or a long burnout is something you only do after the tires are worn out, and while you're on your way to the tire store for the next set.
For me, that's about once a year.
For me, that's about once a year.
I was going to rework the suspension for autocross anyway so I guess I'll take Aaron's advice and just tune up the suspension with new bushings, springs and shocks. Then, I'll see if I can do a burnout.
Thanks all,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
#20
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
The stock suspension sucks ***.
First note. STOP TRYING until you get it replaced. You WILL break your differential mount. Wheel hop == broken parts. That is a PITA usually to replace.
I've heard at a minimum that new struts/springs and a rear strut bar will help.
First note. STOP TRYING until you get it replaced. You WILL break your differential mount. Wheel hop == broken parts. That is a PITA usually to replace.
I've heard at a minimum that new struts/springs and a rear strut bar will help.
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Freeport, Maine
Posts: 1,225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
never had too many problems in any of my n/a's. . This may not be too good for the car but try a "roll back". Get going in reverse at like 10mph or more and then put it in first, redline, dump clutch, hold it to the floor . . have some fun. .lol
#24
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
untrue, even cars rolling off the factory line are bound to get wheel hop if certain conditions are met. rubber flexes so wheel hop is bound to happen at one point or another.
#25
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i got 225's on 17's in the rear with heavy rims and a LSD.. makes it kinda hard to get them spinning.. now donuts... thats a different story.. im now looking into springs to get..