2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Burnout Attempt

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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 01:23 AM
  #1  
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Talking Burnout Attempt

I searched and really didn't find anything... my friends just say my little N/A FC doesn't have enough power / torque to burnout. I never can get it and neither could one of my friends (who goes to the strip often with his 89 mustang... he knows how to burnout...) I just get pathetic wheel hop every time...

So... is there a trick to burning out in an N/A FC? (Stock... hehe.) Or do I just need more power?

Like I said, I searched for "burnout" and didn't find any relevant threads...

Thanks,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 01:31 AM
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i got an 85 gs witha 12a in it. it's got over 200k on it and i can smoke the wheels throught most of first and second. or i can get a good stand still going if i'm feelin it........but no 13b tire spin........hummm.......
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 01:34 AM
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n/a sevens with a LSD do not burn out easily with grippy tires, why would you want to abuse your car just to prove a point anyways? its about how fast you accelerate not how slowly you do.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 02:28 AM
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you're just eating clutches
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 02:59 AM
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i know in my stock 85 GSL (105hp) w/ LSD and bigger decent tires that it wouldnt hold a brakestand and would just be overwhelmed by grip and stall out if i didnt catch the clutch.
However, it would do donuts like a bat outta hell. Guess the LSD helped, but the spinning overcomes grip quite well

my t2 on the other hand has no problem

warm up car to full operating temperature
release e-brake
place foot on clutch
shift into first gear
put half of foot on brake
use toe of foot to give gas and get it a little under redline and hold it there
release clutch quickly
modulate throttle to keep RPMs high and still hold on brakes, you can modulate the brake too to start rolling while doing a brakestand


If you're having trouble with that and your car doesnt have enough torque to keep them spinning like my GSL had a problem with, just do donuts! They're way more fun

Just turn your wheel a little, step on the clutch, rev just below redline, release clutch quickly and let it spin around, you can countersteer to go in tighter/looser circles or to change direction. Just keep giving it gas so it doesnt start to grip, and remember to keep it off of redline

Also remember that doing donuts and burnouts is very hard on your car, the clutch, the tires, etc etc. Especially the motor, because you arent getting any airflow because you arent moving and because the air is filled w/ tire smoke. And your oil is also on one side of the pan and might starve your motor if its low enough or you do donuts for too long. Same with your tranny, my friend blew out his first gear synchos doing AWD snow donuts in his WRX

-Ben Martin
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 05:50 AM
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Your car is just getting stuck in limbo. The tires are biting to hard & with the stock bushings, etc, hop is bound to happen. You can normally push go through the hop point if you really wanted. Buy cheaper tires, it'll happen like pie. But, now the over all performance is the car was killed a little.

You could always poor some bleach on the ground.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:08 AM
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My 86 GXL tears all kinds of **** up, no matter what tires are on it. The 87 GXL however bites harder than a son of a bitch and eats clutch. I'm hoping that it's just the clutch that sucks, however as I put more miles on the car (it had been sitting a while) it's slowly getting more torque (if that's even possible). My 86 has less overall power, but it seems to have alot more torque than the 87.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:13 AM
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Yeh, it is not anything to do with power, my brother's 85 gs had a severe lack of power like, a blown rotor or something, and it would still spin, my guess is just it is the LSD rear, mine is the same way, rev it up drop the clutch, and a little chirp and some wheel hop and im gone.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:15 AM
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If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).

I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).

I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
How long does it normally take to swap out bushings BTW? Mine are so rotted that the rubber is ready to completely remove itself from the sleeves, lol. I'd like to do it on one of these warmer winter days we've been getting, but don't want to spend days on it until summer comes.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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Depends on the rust level and if you have air tools. Ideally a few hours. In reality, many hours.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Depends on the rust level....
In that case it'll probably take me a few years.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).

I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.
this is me!!! my shocks are getting replaced first since there the origanal ones... what should i get next?? bushings?? which bushings?? i should probably replace all but money is tight so... my LSD wants to make it next to impossible to spin without wheel hop..i got wheel hop bad!

Last edited by 88rxn/a; Jan 31, 2006 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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i did a few wicked ones just before i changed the rear tires (225's BTW) I did this

1. over inflate the rear tires (40-45psi) make sure both tires are the same though
2. get to the burnout location with an oil squirting can and spray the rear brake rotors, inside and out <--- i may get flamed for this
3. make shure the car is warm
4. put in first, redline it, and dump the clutch
5. as soon as ur foot leaves the clutch hit the brake *note, it is important to keep it floored at this piont* keep just enough pressure on the brake to keep it from rolling
6. let off the gas a lil if you get really close to redline
7. remember to watch your temp gauge and idiot lights in case u blow a hose
8. you MUST have a friend with a video cammera recording.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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i can do small burn outs in my 88 gxl. sadly enough though, my honda accord can do better burnouts, but they are one wheeled.... and its a honda. thats the major problems with that
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ProjectR13B
i can do small burn outs in my 88 gxl. sadly enough though, my honda accord can do better burnouts, but they are one wheeled.... and its a honda. thats the major problems with that
yeah, sadly enough my mom's honda odyssey will do a better 2 wheel burnout than my 7. go figure. oh well our car's are built for driving, not redneck crap.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by ProjectR13B
i can do small burn outs in my 88 gxl. sadly enough though, my honda accord can do better burnouts, but they are one wheeled.... and its a honda. thats the major problems with that

Wella ny frotn wheel drive car can do good burnout, since you can apply the handbrake its not really battling traction even nearly as bad. My boys 89 accord (98 hp) did burnouts till the the metal threads were exposed and the street melted.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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IMHO - Donuts or a long burnout is something you only do after the tires are worn out, and while you're on your way to the tire store for the next set.

For me, that's about once a year.

Last edited by SureShot; Jan 31, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by SureShot
IMHO - Donuts or a long burnout is something you only do after the tires are worn out, and while you're on your way to the tire store for the next set.

For me, that's about once a year.
Yeah, that's where I'm sittin'. I have old worn tires on my 7 at the moment and I was just having some fun... or trying to. :P

I was going to rework the suspension for autocross anyway so I guess I'll take Aaron's advice and just tune up the suspension with new bushings, springs and shocks. Then, I'll see if I can do a burnout.

Thanks all,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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The stock suspension sucks ***.

First note. STOP TRYING until you get it replaced. You WILL break your differential mount. Wheel hop == broken parts. That is a PITA usually to replace.

I've heard at a minimum that new struts/springs and a rear strut bar will help.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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the secret to burnouts... more power

Just give up with the burnouts and do donuts instead
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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never had too many problems in any of my n/a's. . This may not be too good for the car but try a "roll back". Get going in reverse at like 10mph or more and then put it in first, redline, dump clutch, hold it to the floor . . have some fun. .lol
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 02:09 PM
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^^ouch!!!
thats asking for trouble!!!
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are getting wheel hop, then there are worn suspension components. Springs, dampers or bushings (very specific, I know ).

I've never really had any problem doing burnouts at the track, though it requires a high-RPM clutch dump or a burn box.

untrue, even cars rolling off the factory line are bound to get wheel hop if certain conditions are met. rubber flexes so wheel hop is bound to happen at one point or another.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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i got 225's on 17's in the rear with heavy rims and a LSD.. makes it kinda hard to get them spinning.. now donuts... thats a different story.. im now looking into springs to get..
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