TruRite

iTrader: (1)

I have had my 7 for about 3 years and have only been able to drive it for about a month. Due to jobs and relocation it has been garage kept. I finally have the time and resources to start rebuilding and getting this thing up and running. I have been a member for a while and i have spent countless hours reading these forums.

I was told the car has a JDM s4 turbo motor.


My 7 on the trailer headed for my shop

Questions:

1. Is this an s4 or s5 turbo? I ask because from what i have searched on here is that the wastegate and exhaust manifold are s5...



2. Only 1 hose was connected on the rat's nest, can i just run the single hose and delete all the solenoids?




3. How do i remove the injector plugs? and how do i know if they should be replaced?


4. This ground was not connected when i was taking it all apart. what does it go to?


5. Why would the previous owner have this bridge on the fuel lines?


6. Is there supposed to be a timing mark on here? if so where and how do i know its in time?


7. I was removing things and forgot to unplug the battery. when i laid the alternator on the intake my clutch line started melting and smoking... there is no wire only the clutch cable. How did it melt?


8. After removing the upper and lower intake i removed all of these block off plates. i know they go to emissions and things controlled by the solenoids. is any of these being off going to cause me a problem?


sorry for all the questions... if you need more pics of something else and i can take them tomorrow. There will probably be plenty more to come before i am done. Thanks for all the help!!!

OustedFairlady

Reinstall the plates. They're for the rat's nest delete. As for your clutch line, all I know is that it needs to be replaced. Braided steel!

The ground goes to a spade connector on a flat copper plate bolted to the firewall.

You need to ground that, yes.

IIRC, the crank angle sensor would generally be around the center of the adjustment arc. Not positive, and obviously, you need to finish adjusting it with a timing light.

The rest? Got me. I'm having a good bit of trouble with my own car. This is just what I've gleaned from the forums trying to fix it.

younG_Gunner

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it is an S5 turbo. The ports are matched and the wastegate flap on an s4 turbo has only one hole.

The oil injectors just need to be unbolted.

The picture of the black circle is the CAS or Crank Angle Sensor. The timing needs to be set in relation to the timing marks on the front pully and timing pointer of the front cover.

Removal of the plates will cause huge vacuums leaks.

The bridge on the fuel lines seem pointless to me. Maybe he didn't have hoses long enough? Doesn't really need to be there if the engine is stock.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Bridge between the fuel lines is to prevent flooding after the engine is shut down as the pressure will be diverted back to the tank.

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

Finally I've made some progress... I work for a Kia dealership and we had a bunch of new model releases so I had to do a lot of training on top of being the busiest time of year for a mechanic, so... not a alot of time to work on the svn. Now winter is coming and the shop is slowing down.

Alright... update as to current progress:

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Painted accent colors for the motor bay (antique brass).

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Replaced driver door and front fender due to serious damage.

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Purchased a E. Fan and created custom bracket to hold to radiator.

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Prepping and painting hood (underside:brass; top Flat Black Primer)

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TruRite

iTrader: (1)

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A lot of sanding and painting. Hit the block with 2000 degree flat black.

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Cleaned and repaired FTP Lenses and mounting bolts.

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Started wiring repair and cleanup and re-wrapping with 5000 degree heat reflection tape.




So now comes the questions...

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I already deleted the RED

1. Since I have an S5 turbo can i delete the Twin scroll and Switching solenoids (yellow)?

2. What does the Relief solenoid and Check connector (yellow) go to and can I delete these?

3. What does the Port Air solenoid and Spilit Air solenoid connector (yellow) go to and can I delete these? I've researched and only found that they go to 5th and 6th ports on n/a motors... i'm probably wrong.

4. Can I delete the Sub Zero motor? If so what side effects will I have (yellow)?

5. What do the actuator and variable resistor do (green)?

6. Where can I get CLEAR turn signal lenses and Side marker lenses... I have googled for hours trying to find some to no avail.


To all people who are doing injector wiring repair and having trouble finding Injector harness connectors I've found KIA Connectors (will post part number Monday) that fit perfectly and are like $2 a piece. Which makes sense because KIA bought there fuel systems from Mazda when the first came to the U.S.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you planning on using S5 sensors or S4 sensors? An S4 has the Variable Resistor while an S5 does not so you must be using the S4 Emissions harness.

The Sub Zero system never worked as planned so it could be deleted.

The Port Air and Split Air and Relief solenoids are part of the emissions system and could be deleted if you don't have to have the car pass emissions. The EGR is also part of the emissions system.

The Bypass Air Control (BAC) is part of the idling system and not emissions and therefore should not be deleted.

The Check Connector is used to set the TPS w/the LED light procedure but there are other ways of setting the TPS.

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

I wish I could keep the BAC but it was already blocked off when I got the car and a replacement is rather pricey (I could pay for the rtek with that). What kind of negative impacts am I going to have without it? Its only a weekend driver... it has no a/c or p/s.

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

Also thanks for answering some of my questions... it gives me some work I can do tomorrow while we are slow

satch

iTrader: (1)

It assists the engine in keeping the idle from dropping below 750 rpm when load related things cause such an occurence. It also shoots more air into the throttle body when starting the car to give it a little additional help. If all aspects of the engine are working in concert and you don't have a/c or p/s then you should be okay.

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

Thats good... I've been worried about the BAC being blocked off being a big issue. I think I will leave the wires for it in the harness in case down the road I want to install it back into the motor.

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

I just noticed your sig says you reside in tulsa... I moved to bixby about a year ago. Very interesting...

satch

iTrader: (1)

Don't you mean Stixby!

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

I don't get it

I work at the primeaux kia on yale... ive been looking for rotary fans here and havent had alot of luck.

TruRite

iTrader: (1)

So I should save the check connector if possible?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Depends on which method you use to set the TPS. Some like adjusting the TPS to 1 volt on the Green/Red wire while others prefer the LED light technique. Of the three wires found at that particular check connector the Blue/Red wire comes from the Switching Solenoid, the Blue/Yellow wire comes from the Relief Solenoid and the B/W wire originally comes from the Main Relay. If you plan on doing away w/these emission solenoids then the check connector would basically be of no use to you. Page 25 and 31 of FSM wiring diagram illustrates these particular wires.

And the regional forums will provide you w/a conduit to local members.