gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

I have been trying to get the compression built up on my 88TII. I have been putting a heavy oil into the chambers to help it along. But I am curious how long it takes. I have had to recharge my batery 3 times now in a course of a day. Is this normal? Is there anything else I can do in addition to this?

Jason

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It helps to just let it idle, or take it for a couple of drives and keep it under 4,000rpm. Check out http://www.rotaryresurrection.com (Kevin's page has been getting a lot of hits lately!) For some detailed information about breakin.

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

It would be great to let it idle, but I cant even get it to start. I have read Kevins page and seem to be stumped.

Jason

marcus219

So you haven't started the car yet...its not going to build comp until you do. Putting oil in there is going to help it seal enough to try and get it to fire, but not seat the seals.

Matlock

My suggestion is to not put to much oil in there. A little is good, but you can over do it.

marcus219

Thats not what you said when we were dumping MMO in my engine.....

Roy James

Hey man, rebuilds are a BITCH to get running. I had to take my car to the top of this hill in my neighborhood countless times to get it to start when it was a new rebuild, and STILL it was a BITCH. I had to let it idle at like 3000 for three days in the yard to get it to seal, the neighbors loved me with my header and 2.5" straight pipe that week LOL. Good luck man. Be careful with that oil, my car cought on fire with that, there was so much in the exhaust that i guess it backfired and cought it on fire, my bumper is fried do to that.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Once you get it running, go for a NICE LONG DRIVE. Vary the revs, drive around in town or whatever for like 3 or 4 hours.

Maybe you fouled your plugs? they can be a bitch to get running with fouled plugs. Clear the oil out, buy new plugs and pop 'em in, and it might start right up. Don't let it die! drive around!

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

yea man just keep crankin on it. get a little bit of oil to help u. try doing the pop the clutch down the hill at like 60 lol. that always works

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

yea man just keep crankin on it. get a little bit of oil to help u. try doing the pop the clutch down the hill at like 60 lol. that always works

Detriuch

iTrader: (1)

sorry

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info guys, guess Ill just keep trying and trying.

Jason

jon88se

this is why the TII motor kevins finishing for my swap is going to be installed @ J&R in elmont LI...let them do all this stuff

BlackRx7

Damn you guyz must have never rebuilt a solid motor, my motor would not start as much as I tried putting oil and mmo in the engine. inorder to build compression on a rebuilt motor you have to get the RPMS up to about 3k to 4K rpms for atleast 5 secs. I got a friend to tow start me down some back road first try it in 2nd at about 30-40 miles and hour engage the clutch and mash the gas pedal then push the clutch back in so you don't run into the back of the guy towing you, it took me about 3 pulls, one a 20, one at 30,and finally I got it to catch in 3rd gear at about 45 mph, I was happy as hell!!! suprised know one suggested that

tims

I have not had any problems with a well done rebuilt engine starting. sounds like some used parts in these rebuilds(side housings and rotor housings likely). I check the compression before attempting to start the engine. if the compression was not good to start with I would be calling the engine rebuilder. a rebuilt engine should develope better initial compression and should not need the drastic starting and break in procedures. last engine I had rebuilt started on the second or third crank. third engine from same builder is almost finished I'll let you know if I have any problems. old or worn side housings and rotor housings can cause loss of compression that be reduced after the side and apex seals wear in, but if the parts are new or in good used condition should give near perfect compression when new.

ghebert

Hi, I ran into the same problem when I installed my rebuild. Here is what worked for me. Remove all 4 plugs and clean them with mineral spirits and blow them off with compressed air or let them sit til dry. Remove inner most fuse in engine compartment fuse block. Get a piece of cardboard and lay it on the side where the open spark plug hole are. Get in the the car and hold gas pedal down and crank engine for 20 seconds, you will see a mist from engine compartment don't worry this just the fuel blowing out (this is what you want). Now get some automatic transmission fluid use some sort of squeeeze bottle and put about a table spoon in both bottom spark plug hole and reinstall all 4 plugs making sure you don't mix them up. Reinstall Fuse, charge battery and try starting the engine. It will smoke for a couple of minutes then stop. Let it idle and drive it around vary your speed and shifting, best to drive around town. If it shake rally bad do your timeing first. Let me know how you make out. You may have to do this procedure the first couple of times then you'll be allset remember to always let your car warm up to temp before shuttit off. Good luck. Gary

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

Any idea what the oil pressure should appros read on the stock gauge while trying to start the car? Still havent gotten it started yet, but havnet tinkered with it in a few days.

Jason

BlackRx7

have you tried pull starting?

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

Not yet, thats next I think. Got today off and going to put fresh new plugs in. But my area is limited to pull start since i live in the city.

Jason

HAILERS

With the plugs pulled, strong battery and starter, the oil pressure should reach over sixty when spinning the engine. Cold oil. That's what I've seen on a mechanical gauge while spinning the engine on the garage floor w/transmission attached.

I can't vouch for the factory gauge. I know mine goes over the sixty mark when doing the above with the engine in the car also. Not all factory gauges are equal after 15 yrs.

JDMkamikazeeRX

wow, I am so happy I did not have that problem. On Wednesday I started my motor and it fired up on the first crank. The only problem was that it ran real hot on me, but that is a different issuse that will hopefully be solved tonight. MAKE SURE you have a fuel cut off switch. When I started mine, I cranked it over a dozen of so times, canked it once more, flipped the fuel switch and it started right off. I would not have been able to get it restarted if I did not have that switch. I was cranking it to get it restarted after I shut if off, and I flipped that switch too soon, that it just died becuase it flooded so easy.

Anyway good luck.

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the insight guys, I do have a fuel cut off switch. Can definately see the difference when it gets flooded when trying to start. Turn it off, a quick fire so I know the fuel is used up, then turn it back on for another try.

Jason

gtrr4

iTrader: (2)

I pulled all four plugs of mine today to replace them. While out I cranked it over to check the pressure and it doesnt read any different than when they are in, 15psi on factory gauge. Any ideas on that?

Jason