Anytime I try and boost when driving it bucks and spits. I can sometimesa see 5 lbs of boost, and sometimes only 2 or 3, sometimes It wont even get to 1 lb before it starts bucking and giving me hell. Sometimes It will spike to like 7 and then do it. I definately have no vacuum leaks at all and no leak in the TID. I am definately getting spark to all four plugs. I can also make it spit and backfire even in neutral.. I rev it up and give it to much gas, it does the same thing as if I were driving it. I have ordered new secondaries, but that have yet to arrive. I have checked and the connections to my tps, cas, coil packs are all connected. The odd thing is when I first got the car running in neutral it did not do this, then I finally got it to the point that I could test drive it, and thats when it all happened. The first test drive it started this crap.

 

at what rpm does your problem start to happen?

 

about 3grand

 

It sounds like some sort of fuel delivery problem to me. Its most likely clogged injectors, but it could also be clogged fuel filters, etc.

 

i just change my spark plugs and it solve the problem i would check them if i was you. does your car idle good?

 

i thinks so too.

does it happen when you are at full throttle?

 

well, about two weeks ago, i could start it and it would die, then id start it again and it would stay running, also It would not idle well until warm up... I then replaced my main fuel filter in the engine bay only to find it was almost toally clogged... Thus it got rid of my start up problem and it idles fine now. If i try toi full throttle it, it does the same as what I said in my original post. Damn cars.

 

When fuel filters are old, they don't filter as well so its very likely that your injectors are pretty gunked up. You can get them cleaned and flow tested at html://www.cruzinperformance.com for $48 plus shipping.

 

I actually just ordered new greddy 720 secondaries, since I am running rtek 1.7. I will still want to clean my primaries though. what about fuel tank, I did find some surface rust in it.

 

how do I check the boost sensor, I have read some people discovered it was the problem by disconnecting it... Is this true? Im going to try it .

 

I disconnected it and it didnt do anything.. Still think its the injectors?

 

clean the injectors and then see what happen

 

You're having a very similar problem I'm having, at random rpms the power is very high then others its not so hot, I thought it might be an injector / fuel delievery problem now I hav ea feeling it is after reading this post (as my car was doing it on N/A as well, just crapped out in the high rpm range.)

So, looks like I get to get new injectors for christmas bonus or whatever the case may be...

 

you shouldn't have to get new injectors, just get them professionally cleaned. I would say that that fixed my problem, but the car never ran because something fell in the intake and popped a seal.

 

Check the injector clips. If they are bad/not connecting well they will cause a buck (especially in the higher RPM's) . Also you may want to check the in tank soc if thats clogged up that could also cause lower fuel volume and starvation. Have you checked your fuel pressure to make sure it is rising with boost? (Fuel Regulator).

 

Why dose evryone always says same thing my car is doing as me.

You need to do a grounding upgrade. The grounds are bad. Simple as that.

 

check your coils, my car would make no power in boost, problem was my leading coil had gone out, i was making full boost at 2800 rpm cause all teh combustion was happening in the turbo ha!

 

how do I check my coils? just see if im getting spark from them will work?

I am going to do the grounding of the block, ecu, alternator etc when I pull the manifold off to do my new injectors.

I found rust in my gas tank, and am replacing my gas tank..(it did sit for 9 yeasrs)

Ill tell you all more this week.

 

Common maintains lack of such as spark plugs wires and so on should be done and checked prior to asking for help on this type of questions just basic mechanics! SEARCH or get a Haynes manual.

Anyhow I ran my car on just the T and revved like normal and received full boost just some lack of power. As well on just L. So not running on L and so on and combustion in turbo is BS and inaccurate. The car is capable of running on either, what you don’t want is the T firing before the L or too much advance or to much retard. FWIW the tach runs off of the T coils.

The grounding is only as good as the weakest link so do a full upgrade there are several write-ups and one on http://www.rotaryresurrection.com I have never seen a reason to ground the ECU and only ground the PS on pri 87 cars as stated in the FAQ. You want to ground the block from batt and link this to the firewall strut tower and rear iron should be sufficient but added to the back of ALT would be fine.

Things that should be checked prior to anything are, Plugs, wires, spark, corrosion removal from all grounds and + connections, PS, vac leaks, TPS.

 

youre running the rtek 1.7 on stock secondaries? I believe Its MADE to run on 750s.. It thinks you have 750s and you're not getting the fuel it thinks you are...

wouldnt drive it until you get the 750s in there... unless you dont love your motor.

 

I have greddy 720's as my secondaries... that is what the rtek 1.7 calls for.

 

720's!

720's!!

not 750

 

i had a problem simmilar to yours a couple of years ago, i had a leaking back secondary, my car would drive ok on light load but past part throttle it would buck like crazy. I also replaced the fuel filter and installed a rx7.com denso fuel pump. I sent my primarys to rc engineering to be cleaned and installed a new set of 720s in the secondary . I did also add a **** load of grounds in the process . but all that got mine goin again.

 

^ So let me get this straight you had a problem then did many changes to make it go away and really have no idea what it was? The secondary don’t come on to 3.8krpm anyways.

Bucking and surging from lack of fuel react completely different and should be an obvious difference if you know what to look for.

 

well a#s Blue, i knew there was a leaking injector i could see the fuel, i hust upgraded a few things at the same time, didnt hurt did it cause it ran fine after that. this guy is looking for sugestions not ur negative comments