iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

I have a Bridgeported 6port that i built a while back. Its been rebuilt the right way with machining and such. Now I'm just about ready to ditch the TII after putting about 5k miles on it and putting the bridgeport in. I've started and run it once and I just love the sound and throttle response of an NA.

Anyways my question is anyone experience any problems with running a bridgeport daily? Its not that I'm gonna drive it everyday, I just need some info about reliability. This will be a weekend/track car. Also I know about the sound issue, believe me i do.

I have searched but the only 7s I could find that run a bridgeport daily are the fb guys and not much fc guys. Also I plan to still run FI. Which leads me to my other question.

Will a piggyback like say perhaps a Greddy eManage work with a bridgeport? When i test drove it with the bridgeport I used the stock s4 ecu which worked fine.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Throttle response of an NA? OK...

How reliable the engine is depends on how the bridges were cut. If they were taken to the extreme where the bridge is paper thin and there is only a sliver of material between the eyebrow and port, then it won't last long. However if the engine was sanely ported as a street engine, with thick bridges, then you should have no issues. And this assumes that the person doing the porting didn't create ports that will eat side seals.

Now, one thing to remember is that to get any decent power out of an NA bridgeport, your exhaust will be very, very loud. Any amount of baffling that cuts down noise close to acceptable issues will kill power output as well. Tracks have noise limits, and a proper bridgeport exhaust will violate them.

Also, the intake manifold is a concern. The NA intake manifold is tuned to work with the stock ports. Throwing bridgeports at it blows all this away and it is now a restriction. You can hog out the dynamic chamber, swap to a TII intake setup, or get a proper set of ITBs.

Don't even think of using any kind of piggyback. This requires a full standalone.

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

piggyback is out of the question. going with another rtek system again then,

as for the throttle setup. if i were to use the TII setup then i wouldnt have a use for the aux, right?

tracks here in colorado are really lenient about noise issues on the track since they are out in the middle of nowhere pretty much. I've driven it out on the streets for a good 30yds running straight headers and decided to bring it back in, i know the noise issue pretty well.

also what do you mean by thick bridges? the space between the intake port or the space near the water jacket?

what i meant by throttle response is waiting for boost. like when you exit a corner and you step on it, its like "waiting waiting waiting then finally boost" i want full power throughout.

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

The bridge is literally the bridge that sits in the middle of both ports on an iron. If it's thin then it will be weak. The thicker it is/more properly ported the less problems you will have with it.

Don't use this picture as a guide line, I have no idea if this is a good port or not, just one I found on google.

Also, if you can match a turbo to your amount of airflow, you can have good throttle response. Poorly matched turbos are what causes boost lag. If you have a GT42 on a B18 you're gonna have a nice wait for some decent spool. Look at the response on this GT35R Streetported T2;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ty85qzSQKcE
That's not my video either just for reference.

iani1.1

iTrader: (13)

the bridge is about if not thicker than the pic. it not a heavy port job but i think its enough to accommodate the powerband i want.

as for the turbo im aware of the concept. its pretty much common sense. a small engine will take forever to spool up something like a holset hx55.

i ran the holset and went down to a bnr. conclusion was too much turbo isnt worth a rebuild. too small turbo isnt enough power. but i know reliability issues go up beyond a streetport but atleast i can push it harder than a turbo without worries.

thats actually what im looking for a decent amount of power that you can thrash and not worry too much about. lol

correct me if im wrong but usually a non turbo car usually lasts longer than a boosted one depending on the boost level.

DaBrkddy

Turbo size isn't the only factor that affects throttle response or boost pickup though is it? I thought that charge pipe length/diameter, amount of turns/couplers, size/location of intercooler, waste gate/bov combination and setup, amount of boost/power desired, exhaust system type, computer tune, etc. all play a role in response with a turbo car. (Please correct me if I'm wrong here, I'm not a turbo guy; nor do I own a turbo car.) I always heard the rotary was an ideal power plant for producing exhaust pressure and heat for driving a turbo, regardless of size. (Once again, correct me if I'm wrong.) I've seen all manner of high horsepower turbo cars spool, spool, spool, and then once you think their ready to make some power they spool some more, just to be driven for a split second in an unrealistic power band. (Like 7,000rpm to 7,500rpm, then shift to the next gear and start all over...) Personally, I would prefer to have a turbo car that produces less power, but can actually carry itself along at any rpm without me waiting for power, rather than one that just has a peak that lasts for a few hundred rpms and then I have to shift.

Regardless of my turbo babble, who wants an N/A that has no low end? Why sacrifice low end (which most N/A guys are lacking anyway), for some high end power that you will only get to use for a little while? Call me crazy, but wouldn't a bridgeport six port be kinda gutless in the low end?

Sorry for the long post...

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Not everyone wants or needs the low end for their application and/or driving style.

Preference.

Maybe check out some dyno sheets of certain ports on twin rotors and maybe some video. Might help ya understand there's more to it than "waiting for power". If your app keeps you in the powerband most of the time, it doesn't matter what's happening below 4,500rpm.....

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

all that is true, but do a degree. once you get a decent sized turbo on the engine, something like a 60-1 p trim, or a 57 trim to4e, its pretty forgiving about intercooler/pipe/etc etc size, at a "normal" boost, like 10-15psi

a good example might be BDC's 60-1 stock top mount combo vs someone with some super giant IC setup.

with the stock turbo, you can go too big with the IC...