Need help figuring out how I am going to extract a broken coolant temp switch from my 1990 RX7 NA. Upon installing the new sensor, I noticed a perfect start in threading up perfectly; but then 2/3rd through done, it tarted to seize up before it was properly positioned. Knowing the consequences of going any further, I decided to back the sensor out to see if things were getting cross-threaded inside. the first stroke to back it out and ... SNAP! the think broke right at the bezel, where the threads end and the sensor case start. Now had this been in a place where there was plenty of room for access, I would not be posting now but would be telling you about my successful extraction. The only way to succeed in extraction this thing is by removing the intake manifold so you can attack it dead on. Can anyone picture it

Has anyone else done this before? How involved is it to remove the intake manifold? What other items need to be removed in advance. I will pull the procedure up in the FSM. once I have it off, I will go at it with a reverse extraction bit with a right angle drill (has never failed me). Glad I have a new sensor on hand for replacement and this time I will put on more anti-seize and will stop at finger tight.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

Which sensor is this? The one on the water pump housing with two wires?

 

The one that sits right underneath the alternator... two wires.

 

Most likely you'll have to drill out the center of the sensor, maybe use an ez-out. I wouldn't try that with the water pump housing on the car though. I think I have an S5 housing if you just want to replace it.

 

it can be drilled out easy. or relocate it someplace else.

 

I think that BOTH would be a good option...

Replace the OEM housing, making sure to thread in a shallow bolt, in lieu of the sensor...

Then, find a more suitable place for it, tap, thread, Gigetty.

'course... I'm dealing with this EXACT problem with my FD...

All the bitch has to do is wake back up and drive, for a solid couple of months, then it BACK under the knife for the 2J. Then the REW goes in the FC and all's well.

Damned thing can't even do that, though.