I just got my 1990 GTUs full-bridgeported. I was informed that I should convert it from fuel injectors to carborated.He said it will havea deeper idle and "pop" more at redline. Also i can get much more power.Do it or not?I dont want ot because of mpg since its somewhat a daily driver.

 

Your tuner is full of it and either does not know how to or does not want to tune EFI. Carbs were great 30 years ago, but we really have progressed a lot since then. You can be much more exact over a broad range of conditions with EFI.

Find someone who has tuned/races severalbridge'd rotary, and talk to them.

 

+1 for being precise. carbs on a bridge port is like a sniping shotgun.

 

You will have to get a full standalone for it to run with fuel injection. Many people go carb because it seems simpler and cheaper, but its vastly inferior to a proper EFI setup. You will also need ITB's to truly take advantage of the bridge port.

Oh, and there is no way it will run on the stock fuel system.

 

If i dont go carborated i was going full stand alone.So there must have been translation problems with the carb swap...

 

go standalone......... jeezz a carb on a bridge port thats like trying to get a donkey to pull your car

 

At 4 mpg with a carb, you could pay off a stand-alone in less than a year. heh

 

I don't understand what you're trying to say...

You imply the work has already been done?

How is it running it doesn't have a carb or a stand-alone EMS right now?
Is it currently running on the stock ECU?

You sound like you have no clue what you're getting yourself into, but you already went ahead with the work???


-Ted

 

^Teeeeedddd. We've been staring at that hotness for quite sometime, update the Avatar! Update the Avatar! Update the Avatar!

 

Update the Avatar!

 

Yeah, sorry, been busy on my side of things.
I'll change it this weekend.
Thanx for noticing!


-Ted

 

Any time. Hotness is hotness, I'm not complaining, but I know RETed has more in him than that.

 

while on the topic, can somone explain to me what is bridgeport, streetport and other port, are there difference in power base on what port it is, thanks. those are port that usually in rebuild right?

thanks

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PORT/porting.html

 

thanks, definitely bookmark this page

 

Will you make peak power before 8k on a bridge? Because a megasquirt only goes to 8k right?

 

I have a bridgeport running on a all stock componets,except intake,exhuast,clutch assembly.My mechanic infrormed me that i can get more power with a carb than fuel injectors.I though fuel injection was the way to go, So i was asking if it was true or not.

 

bridge port running stock fuel system and EMS

 

I'm in a bad mood because I just read yet another thread saying that a narrowband is not accurate, so excuse me if my reply to this one is a little harsh.

This thread is full of so much utter crap that it's not even funny. When people don't know, they should not post....

To the original poster:

If you have any kind of bridgeport, your mileage is in the gutter. Period, nothing you can do about it. Prepare for 8 MPG or less around town, maybe 10 with a good tune. Highway mileage will be much better depending on how the car is tuned.

Most of the bad press that high overlap ports get is from the old carburetor days. Bridgeports and peripheral ports (as well as other high overlap ports) create a wildly fluctuating vacuum that plays havoc on carbs. This makes those engines very difficult to tune and behave very badly.

You need to dump the stock intake manifold. It does not work very well with a bridgeported engine. The S5 NA manifold (as well as the S4 manifold) is optimized to perform with stock ports. With a bridgeported engine you need to lose the entire VDI system and move to a simple straight runner system.

Don't even think of carburating it.

The standalone is the way to go, but it's going to take some more money and a lot of time to tune it properly.

Yes, you can run it on the stock EMS system but it runs like garbage. It will buck and stutter, start with great difficulty and make hardly any power compared to a properly tuned standalone.

If this a daily driver, the bridgeport friendly exhaust system is going to be ungodly loud to the point where you will start wearing earplugs while you drive.

 

That was going to be my next question.Exhaust. i currently have custom 3" straight Y-pipe with racing beat headers.The guy i bought it from made the exhaust himself so there is holes in it. I dont like the racing beat exhaust tone,it is just to high pitched.Suggestions?

 

Custom. And big.

 

Nope. It goes as high as you set the rev limiter to.

 

fire your mechanic/tuner.
get a standalone and an appropriate intake setup.
tune.

 

Awesome, i thought i read somewhere that its limited to 8k though, guess i misread.

I would run a single straight pipe, single exit, to the muffler of your choice, apexi n1 style muffler, borla or flowmaster racing mufflers etc. You dont need a cat, you wont pass emissions anyway with a bridge. Im sure other people are more knowledgable about the proper exhaust on a bridgeport engine as well.

 

friend, right now I think the best thing you can do (right after you move on to a new person to help you with the car...and i LIKE carbs) is to do as much studying as possible on the setup you just bought. no offense but you sound extremely new to the whole thing so I'd spend as much time reading and studying as you possibly can so you're not in the dark and don't end up going bankurupt from this car (which can happen really quick in the rotary world)

good luck with the car though it'll be loads of fun once you get her right, just make sure you read, read, and RE-read as much as you can so you don't have to end up asking too many vague questions like this one

be careful

K