2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

brappapapapbrap under full throttle

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:33 PM
  #1  
bradenscreed's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: lexington south carolina
brappapapapbrap under full throttle

idle is fine, onced warmed up took it out, under light throttle revs go up fine, anything more than light throttle and it just spits and sputters, back fires, shoots flames, and sounds like ****, wont acclerate. wondering, code says thottle sensor full range, do i need to adjust my tps? if i removed my intake manifold and throttle body, would the tps need to be adjusted? all i did was remove my omp, block off where it was, kept the electrical connectors in place, and cranked her up, now this happens. any advice would be very much appreciated. compression is good, fuel pressure is good. 1990 non turbo.
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:34 PM
  #2  
88t2romad's Avatar
(_8(|)
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 0
From: Manhattan, Kansas
how did it run before you removed the omp?

Im no expert but i dont think your ghetto rigged omp idea works

Last edited by 88t2romad; Apr 2, 2006 at 03:36 PM.
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 04:03 PM
  #3  
RenofHeavens's Avatar
Famous Phil's Cheesteaks
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
From: Los Feliz/LA, CA
*shrugs* try putting it back on and see if that is it, even thought that'll be a bitch to do.
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 04:13 PM
  #4  
bradenscreed's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: lexington south carolina
came apart in peices when i took it off, which is why i took it off, it was leaking like a **** and the lines were breaking/broken. i have all the parts, but i dont think they are any good really. besides i did what the writeup on here said, so has anyone else tried? plus like i said im throwing a code for the tps full range, do i need to adjust it?
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 05:30 PM
  #5  
bradenscreed's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: lexington south carolina
anyone tell me where the test/check connector when doing the tps is?
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:02 PM
  #6  
bradenscreed's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: lexington south carolina
could it be my secondaries? when i removed the uim may i have knocked something loose? if i removed the omp and left the electrical connectors in place, why would i be throwing a code?
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #7  
matts86fc3s's Avatar
southern style
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
From: warner robins, georgia
test your tps. and when you set it, dont forget to jump the initail set coupler together. do a sweep test on the tps. if there are any "opens" in the reading then your tps is bad. or if you read below 1ohm at idle and over 5 ohms at full throttle (i think thats right) then your tps if misadjusted. could aslo be your timing , afm, plugs, wires, coils... lot of stuff. when adjusting anything you must jump the initail set coupler or the cpu will not read the adjustments
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
barkz
Power FC Forum
37
Nov 21, 2020 09:34 AM
SakeBomb Garage
SakeBomb Garage
9
May 11, 2020 10:04 AM
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:37 PM.