As some already have read, my starter went South, and waiting for a "quality" one is an issue. I am tired of the hammer trick, and wondering how much of a difference a cheaper one now, 125 bucks, or quality one in a few days, will be in the long run. I don't mind smacking the thing, but experience knows its a 50-50 shot each instance I pick up the "tool"

Advice anyone?

PEACE THE DOG

 

there's always push start:-)

 

Not always the best way to treat a rotary engine, but I'd rather take my chance on something that might work from the inside of the car!

PEACE THE DOG

 

I always go Mazda (reman).
We've gone through starters and alternators like water when we tried any of the local auto parts guys - i.e. NAPA, Checkers, Car Quest.
THEY ALL SUCK!
In fact, I went through THREE starters from Car Quest over 2 days, and I threw the damn thing away - it had a LIFETIME WARANTEE.
It wasn't worth the hassle to find out it was crap, and then have to jack the car up and remore...run down to the store (even if it was FREE)...and then reinstall.
I bite the bullet and pay the $200+ for a Mazda reman unit from the Mazda dealer down here...
*sigh*


-Ted

 

Hey RETed, when I called the Mazda dealership, these guys wanted to know the vin # on the car just to access info on the part. Is this something new to them, or are they doing a background check on me again?

PEACE THE DOG

 

Well, I've got a local shop that rebuilds starters and alternators. They've done two alternators for me and did my buddy's starter on his FD. Maybe there is a shop near you that can do the same thing.

 

There is a guy locally here that does rebuild, I just don't want to go through the hassle of as RETed puts it, "changing" weekly non-quality rebuilds or remans. Hell, I got my check for "severance pay" today, maybe I will just go and replace the whole car for another one, A ROTARY MASTERPIECE, of course.

THANKS ALL,

PEACE THE DOG

 

Bunch of idiots who don't know how to get around the new parts system.
The VIN # just gives them: 1) what year the car is, 2) turbo or non-turbo, and 3) coupe or convertible.


-Ted

 

It seems the VIN # comes in handy in researching parts for some. The part of the hand that the fingerprints are attached to. People been stealing 7's, and they are checking VIN's as a lame excuse to get info for the popo.

I have a 90 vert, n/a, so why did the lady at the other parts store ask me if it was a GXL, or a U? I said convertable, and she said which one, and I replied " The one with the top down". No wonder I got the wrong one.

Maybe I will give the VIN # just to get the right part. Getting ridiculous just to get a starter, whats next? Ordering an ECU, and having them ask for the color of the car?

PEACE THE DOG