I have run out of ideas on this problem, so recently installed a new stage 1 HD Exedy clutch kit and Racing Beat lightweight flywheel and counterweight on my T2 S5, the problem is the clutch is not disengaging, we have tried:

-power bleeding hydraulics and master/slave rebuilt and working correctly
-inspected pilot bearing
-made sure disc is in correctly
-adjusted pedal
-change clutch fork

We tried using washers in between the pressure plate and the flywheel and adjusting the pedal for maximum slave travel and we were able to start the car in gear but almost as soon as you let the pedal out its engaging!!!!!!!

My advise from Racing Beat was that the pilot bearing is damaged or seized but it looks fine!!!!!!!!

I am not sure what the hell is wrong!!

 

Did you put the disc in backwards?

 

Have you measured slave cyl travel and also checked to see if the slave is holding the fork open when the pedal is held down for a few seconds?

 

yes, there is plenty of travel from the slave, the wired thing is when we added space between the pressure plate and the flywheel we could operate the clutch!!! what could cause this?

 

you are doing it wrong.

 

I know that there is supposed to be no spacers between the pressure plate and flywheel, it was just a temporary experiment, but I am out of ideas please help?!

 

The only times I had issues like this were with non turbo aftermarket flywheels that were poorly manufactured (RB and SR Motorsports), but a turbo flywheel and clutch setup is different and shouldn't be having such issues.

Are you sure you're using the correct throwout bearing for this application?

Have you removed the inspection plate on the bottom of the trans bellhousing to try and get a look at whether or not the TOB is contacting the PP fingers soon enough?

 

does this have anything to do with what you installed?..or how?
RX7 1986-1992: Flywheels: Aluminum Flywheel Mounting Hardware Kit - 87-95 RX-8 / RX-8 -

 

Wired that racing beat told me the spacers are for the n/a cars, and on their site it clearly says you need them for the T2, we have had the entire trans off a couple times now and like I said we have spaced the PP and flywheel and got disengagement, but according the tech line at Racing beat no such shims are needed, why this contradicting info! I now have 3 clutch and flywheel setup a to compare today an ACT, stock, and the RB/exedy. There has to something wrong here.

 

Out of the blue stupid question time:
Is the slave made for the Trans?Is is a TII slave on a TII Trans?..(have to ask, some guys put an N/A on there and it doesn't move the fork enough)

 

Ya had that one last year, with the N/A Slave, I now have another TOB to compare, so maybe my kit came with the wrong bearing, but that seems weird.

 

Can you post a pic of the RB flywheel, one from the top and one from a side angle?

Have you compared your RB flywheel to your stock T2 flywheel in terms of the mounting surface?

 

Will post pics once on the lift later today, but I had another idea, when I installed the counterweight I torqued it on with a digital electric impact gun, could the counter weight be not on all the way somehow? Because there is obviously a clearance issue.

 

I went through this EXACT same problem... actually scared the **** outta me. Most of the replies in this thread were from the same people too. My fix was too simple...

Adjust the clutch pedal. Fixed in 2 minutes, after a full day of worrying, and thinking about what could have gone wrong...

 

I must have been lucky then,replacing a clutch as I never had to adjust the rod at all.
/\/\ But,MIDN is right though too,it could be as easy as that.

 

Check this thread... and follow the VERY SHORT troubleshooting steps that are in it. It'll be worth your 10 minutes. And think about it, everything in the thread makes sense.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...blems-1013494/

Essentially, make the pushrod longer, making the slave push out more.

 

He claims he has already adjusted the clutch pedal, per the first post. So, my reply did not include the possibility of an out of adjustment clutch pedal.

 

Yeah, I saw that in the 1st post... but I doubt its coincidence seeing how this happened to me when going from a RB flywheel/stock clutch setup to a RB flywheel/Exedy performance clutch.

 

Here are some pics of the flywheel on the car, we haven't worked on it in the last couple days, so I hope to try changing the PB and TOB to a known OEM one, and try readjusting clutch pedal, if none of those things work I don't know!

 

Then again, I had the light steel flywheel, not the Al one.

 

So got car going now but using the oem steel flywheel, not sure what went wrong when installing the counterweight and RB flywheel, when we took the nut off it came off fairly easy indicating i my electric impact did not torque it to 300ish ft. lbs. , and the counterweight also came off fairly easy without a puller, just lightly pryed it off. now apparently the flywheel is warped???? it has some scuffing on it. and the flywheel to counterwieght bolts seem to have been over tightened as well, looks like i messed my flywheel up somehow but at least the car is moving now. does anybody have any ideas what went wrong!

 

- did you tighten the pressure plate evenly, tightening the bolts a turn at a time in a 'star (not really cuz it's more than 5 bolts but you know what I mean)' pattern? If not, you could have bent the disk or pressure plate.
- did you maybe hang the tranny on the pilot bearing (not likely) or clutch disk/plate (more likely, bending clutch disk/plate)?

 

Good to hear you got it figured out. I'll be sending your injectors soon...

 

Thanks Turblown! Got it figured out, when we took off the flywheel and counterweight it came off fairly easy without a puller, indicating the nut was not torqued on, im sure that this was the cause since the clutch was disengaging but the flywheel was still against it. I will be taking my stock flywheel off this weekend and putting this all back on. I must of messed up by not rechecking my torque with a manual torque wrench.