akageals

I installed $700.00 worth of new parts including the following OEM Mazda Components:
Clutch Slave and Master and Hydraulic Line
TO Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Engine rear seal
Front and rear trans. seal
PP
Clutch
Flywheel (NEW)
Motor and Trans. Mounts

Everything was spotlessly clean when reassembled and I can't find any oil leaking from below. When I look through the inspection hole everything looks clean and dry. I have adjusted the clutch pedal height and the freeplay to factory specs. . The clutch is SLIPPING again. It has less than 3000 very easy miles on it. The pedal feels a little weak and the clutch won't engage until the pedal is almost all the way out. The system has been bled VERY well. Unless the PP is bad I have no idea what is going on. Can anyone save me from having to pull it again?

Todd

assassin

If you bled and bled the damn thing and it's still slipping, that's wierd. The only other idea I have is did you resurface the flywheel. I no how you feel on the thought of pulling that **** again. I had to do some many tranny's, clutches, anything drivetrain related to rotary's. Man I really don't miss that. Sorry man I wish I could help you, but hey good luck.

Bambam7

Nothing really cures a bad clutch.....
Mine was horrible too- and I replced it twice in a few weeks- the first reman I couldn't get out of the driveway without it slipping!!
The clutch I have now is OK, but it doesn't like heat. 2 launches and it doesnt fry 2nd gear any more... more heat- and I can't floor it in any gear.

It is like yours- weak, and engages at the top of the pedal throw.

One thing that helped a lot was deglazing the flywheel.
You must roughen it with 1000 grit sandpaper. It helped a lot.
Also- make sure there isn't ANY oil at all on them....

Check the flywheel depth- It may have been machined previously, and doesn't have enough step.

UniqueTII

My sister had the same problem with her Prelude. I was driving it and told her her clutch was slipping. She got pretty upset and told me she just spent a ton of money on a new clutch. Boy did I feel like a jerk. Anyway, back to the point...I thought there may have been some oil on it when the guy installed it, but you guys suggest it may be the flywheel. Are there any particular symptoms that would make it that for sure, or does it have to get removed again?

jboncher

don't mean to be a a$$ but don't ever buy remaned clutches or pressure plates. it is like asking for trouble. if you have the flywheel machined make sure either you or the shop doing it takes out the alignment pins. that and just a stupid thought but check and make sure your rear diff is still full of fluid and the axles are still in good shape.

MaxRX7

I agree jboncher, but akageals never mentioned using a remanufactored clutch, if it is "OEM" it means it is a factory stock clutch which is prolly brand new. Also the flywheel is new, so I don't see any need to touch(machine/sand) it.

if it is really bad, I guess you have to take it apart again

akageals

Max is correct! Everything is brand new OEM from Mazdacomp, even the flywheel. That's what pisses me off. I spent the $ to do it right and it's still slipping. SO....I guess I will be pulling it again.

Todd

Wankel7

How did you or whom ever tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. Was it a star pattern. To the PROPER torques?

Did you or whomever use to much grease in the pilot bearing. That stuff gets hot and gets thinner. May have slung out.

Also, I got an exhaust manifold from Mazda. Damn thing was DRIPPING in oils. I am guessing to keep the rust off of it. Did you clean the flywheel with laquer thinner or something? Just because it is new dosn't mean it is clean.



James

Amur_

If you do wind up pulling the clutch, and you're considering using an aftermarket, may I suggest... well, I don't remember who makes my clutch, but I'll describe it and maybe some else will throw out the name.

It's a copper deal, with little 'pucks' in a circle on each face (this apparently allows the clutch to handle a lot more force than a regular clutch can, or something like that.) It was installed in my FC last summer (old clutch was completely FUBAR - slipping all over the place) and it's been beautiful. The shop that did it encourages their 7 customers to use this clutch. They've never had to replace one that they've installed due to wearing out.

The shop also used to (until last fall) drag race a TII. It had one of these clutches. The clutch was getting dumped at 6k-8k all the time and never once slipped or otherwise failed.

I'll be talking to the guy in a few days (he's going to be changing my diff in the next week) and get the manufacturer's name, if someone else hasn't thrown it out in the meantime.

ttyl,
Amur_

akageals

Wankel7,

I was dripping in oil when new but was totaly clean when installed. I used several cans of Brake cleaner to clean it. Not even a finger print was left on the flywheel. I lubed the pilot but used the right amount and replaced the pilot seal so I don't think that could be it. And yes the bolts were torqued correctly with the FSM spec. . Each bolt was tightened a little at a time...the PP should not be warped unless it's defective.

Amur, Yeah....i'm considering after market, let me know what you find out about your clutch.

Todd

Wankel7

Well damn Todd! It seems like you did everything right. That is worst when you just know you did it right and something outside of your control is messing it up.

Good luck man. It will be worth it in the end!

James

akageals

Yeah....even worse....MCOMP part are for "racing use" so they carry no warranty.

Todd

Bambam7

The only problem with copper pucks is that they will eat into your flywheel.

When the clutch is due for a replacement (years down the road) odds are your flywheel will have to go too.

Man, I need a new clutch... I can probably get away with just a disc, or a heavier pressure plate... I don't need both. I have a brand new disc and pp in there now... It sucks. Doesn't like heat.
Amur- let us know what kind yours is- (if it didn't cost a grand!)

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Amur, I think you may be describing a centerforce. I could be WAY off though. I'm not sure if they even make an FC clutch. But a friend of mine got one for his stang, and it was exactly like you described.

PraxRX7

Get a dual plate Kevlar centerforce racing clutch. mmmm

turbotwista

Man I feel your pain I just put in a new clutch and pressure plate (RAM powergrip) and now my clutch will go from real easy to push in to real real hard to push in I did everything right I even bleed it like 5 times no help I am guessing it is just a piece of **** clutch and pressure plate. I wouldn't wish this clutch on anyone it is a 6 puck clutch and it is real hard not to stall from a stand still.

you never said what kind of HP you are putting out maybe the stock on just isn't grabbing good enough. That was the problem with my old OEM clutch I smoked it at the strip it was a mess when I took it out.

RexMan

When I bought my car, the last owner had full repair history and he had replaced the clutch with the OEM replacement less than 5,000 miles on it.......I had the car for about two months and did notice a lot of slippage when hot. I replaced the clutch about 10,000 miles after I purchased my 91......I went with a Bonez strip/street 4 puck clutch. The guys at MZM Perfomance here in Austin told me that the bushings were shot so I had them replace every part of the clutch and tranny bushings, to include the Slave cylinder and the hose for the slave cylinder was upgraded from rubber to SS.......the only thing that I did not replace was the flywheel......just had it re-surfaced.......so far so good....no slippage....and I do drive the car hard everyday........sorry about your clutch man.....hope you get it straightened out....

RexMan

Amur_

Nope. I was pricing Centerforce, though, before I was told about the one I have now.

Found the receipt from the shop. It doesn't identify the manufacturer (it was like AES or 'A' something...)

The bill says, '6 puck race disc.' It was $240 Cdn, plus 4 hours labour to install (and I think that they cut me a break on that.)

I do remember that the disc had to be shipped up from the states... I'll know by this Saturday night.

ttyl,
Amur_

RX-Revvin

ACT maybe?

Amur_

Could be. Sounds right. But it was last July and my memory ain't so clear... I went here...

http://www.shaneracing.com/srFlyACTSpec.html

...but I can't reconcile the prices with what I paid.

Dunno. Just gonna have to wait until I talk to the mechanic...

ttyl,
Amur_

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Well assuming that you assembled everything correctly,the fact that the pedal has to be almost all the way up before engagement tends to indicate improper adjustment of the the M/C clutch rod.You could try increasing the clearance of the rod so you get engagement at about 1/2 pedal.Then road test to see if you still have slippage.If you have slippage you have no choice but to pull the clutch again.

akageals

Yeah....I tried adjusting like you said 6. I can get it to engage earlier but it still slips.

Todd

prmazdarx7

check amd make sure the transmision is not a little off
meaning in my case i put the tranny to surface on the bottom side but the top side of the tranny was about 1/4 of an inch off therefore not alowing full engage on it

Wankel7

Ok, you said you cleaned the flywheel with brake cleaner. Did you clean the pressure plate mating surface the same way?

James

Amur_

I finally talk to the guy, and when I go to post his answers the Forum goes down like your mom at my last birthday party...

My new clutch is an ACT. Only the clutch is ACT. He said that if you want to get all nuts about it (I'm paraphrasing when I start talking like this) they do have a street kit that you can get (check the link previously posted in this thread...)

He also said that you should *never* machine the flywheel. He said that he knows that there are other 7 mechanics who will argue that up and down, but he said that every time he's worked with a machined flywheel it has always wound up slipping and otherwise ruining the set up. He said that the flywheel should just be buffed, or maybe hit it a little with sandpaper, but that's it.

I don't see any mention in your posts about the flywheel being machined, but I felt that I should include that bit as he was quite particular about it...

So, there ya go.

ttyl,
Amur_