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Braking and stalling?

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Old 10-22-03, 01:25 PM
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Braking and stalling?

sometimes when I am coming to a stop light and I start braking, the car will stall out. I am not an idiot and stopping in gear or anything like that. I have no vauum leaks, tps is at 1.00v ,it idles solid at 750ish, but even idling if I push on the brake the revs drop a bit. But I am really concerned about the stalling while coming to a stop. Does anyone have advice on what to check, or adjust.
Old 10-22-03, 01:43 PM
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I had the same problem and found a thread on cleaning
the BAC. Cleaning the BAC made a big difference. Search
the threads with subject Back, or mine thread on I fixed my Idle.
At the end of the thread there is a link to instructions.
Old 10-22-03, 04:21 PM
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I don't have a BAC. but this problem just started recently. I have ran with no BAC for a long time
Old 10-24-03, 10:38 AM
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anybody?
Old 10-24-03, 02:41 PM
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You might have a hole in the diaphragm in the brake booster.
Old 10-24-03, 04:16 PM
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Try to put the brake booster out of the picture by just tapping on the brake pedal (just to light the brake lights in back).

If the engine stalls, then your problem is prolly poor compression or something is wrong in the charging system, most likely the alternator.

BTW, that's what the BAC is for, compensating for electrical load on the engine.

hugues -
Old 10-24-03, 04:26 PM
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electrical is not the problem, I have an fd alternator and a good deep cycle battery.

Compression? do you mean the motor, cause it is pretty much brand new and has amazing compression.

How would i know if there is a hole in the brake booster, there are no leaks and the fluid is right up nice and clear. I have a new master cylinder(about 5 months old). The system is bled properly.
Old 10-24-03, 04:55 PM
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If there is a hole in the diaphragm, you should hear a hissing sound from being the dash as you push on the brake pedal. This is basically a vacuum leak since outside air is allowed to be sucked into the engine instead of staying on the pedal side of the diaphragm. Usually, the rpm should then go up but if the leak is big, it could make the engine stall.

BTW, if this is your problem, this is a potentially dangerous situation.

Hugues -
Old 10-27-03, 11:42 AM
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Okay, I definitly don't hear the sucking sound when applying the brakes. So it doesn't sound like that is the problem.

Maybe I should try and raise my idle, but that sounds to me like sidestepping the issue instead of actually fixing it, which I would prefer to do.

Or since the snow started flying today, should I just shutup and deal with it for now since the car goes away for the winter in a few weeks. Than diagnose it in the garage.
Old 10-27-03, 01:00 PM
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If I were to reinstall the BAC, would this eliminate this. Also without that coolant hose going to it, will it still work, or should I cap them off at the ends? I can't see it affecting it by having them open.
Old 10-27-03, 01:32 PM
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Originally posted by wpgrexx
If I were to reinstall the BAC, would this eliminate this. Also without that coolant hose going to it, will it still work, or should I cap them off at the ends? I can't see it affecting it by having them open.
The BAC valve needs the coolant passing through it if I'm not mistaken... (99% sure it does need it).
Old 10-28-03, 06:38 PM
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i had a problem like that once with a sr20det......the master cylinder was leak'n fuild and was being sucked into to the engine causing it to die.
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