Braking and stalling?
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Braking and stalling?
sometimes when I am coming to a stop light and I start braking, the car will stall out. I am not an idiot and stopping in gear or anything like that. I have no vauum leaks, tps is at 1.00v ,it idles solid at 750ish, but even idling if I push on the brake the revs drop a bit. But I am really concerned about the stalling while coming to a stop. Does anyone have advice on what to check, or adjust.
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I had the same problem and found a thread on cleaning
the BAC. Cleaning the BAC made a big difference. Search
the threads with subject Back, or mine thread on I fixed my Idle.
At the end of the thread there is a link to instructions.
the BAC. Cleaning the BAC made a big difference. Search
the threads with subject Back, or mine thread on I fixed my Idle.
At the end of the thread there is a link to instructions.
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Try to put the brake booster out of the picture by just tapping on the brake pedal (just to light the brake lights in back).
If the engine stalls, then your problem is prolly poor compression or something is wrong in the charging system, most likely the alternator.
BTW, that's what the BAC is for, compensating for electrical load on the engine.
hugues -
If the engine stalls, then your problem is prolly poor compression or something is wrong in the charging system, most likely the alternator.
BTW, that's what the BAC is for, compensating for electrical load on the engine.
hugues -
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electrical is not the problem, I have an fd alternator and a good deep cycle battery.
Compression? do you mean the motor, cause it is pretty much brand new and has amazing compression.
How would i know if there is a hole in the brake booster, there are no leaks and the fluid is right up nice and clear. I have a new master cylinder(about 5 months old). The system is bled properly.
Compression? do you mean the motor, cause it is pretty much brand new and has amazing compression.
How would i know if there is a hole in the brake booster, there are no leaks and the fluid is right up nice and clear. I have a new master cylinder(about 5 months old). The system is bled properly.
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#8
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If there is a hole in the diaphragm, you should hear a hissing sound from being the dash as you push on the brake pedal. This is basically a vacuum leak since outside air is allowed to be sucked into the engine instead of staying on the pedal side of the diaphragm. Usually, the rpm should then go up but if the leak is big, it could make the engine stall.
BTW, if this is your problem, this is a potentially dangerous situation.
Hugues -
BTW, if this is your problem, this is a potentially dangerous situation.
Hugues -
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Okay, I definitly don't hear the sucking sound when applying the brakes. So it doesn't sound like that is the problem.
Maybe I should try and raise my idle, but that sounds to me like sidestepping the issue instead of actually fixing it, which I would prefer to do.
Or since the snow started flying today, should I just shutup and deal with it for now since the car goes away for the winter in a few weeks. Than diagnose it in the garage.
Maybe I should try and raise my idle, but that sounds to me like sidestepping the issue instead of actually fixing it, which I would prefer to do.
Or since the snow started flying today, should I just shutup and deal with it for now since the car goes away for the winter in a few weeks. Than diagnose it in the garage.
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If I were to reinstall the BAC, would this eliminate this. Also without that coolant hose going to it, will it still work, or should I cap them off at the ends? I can't see it affecting it by having them open.
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Originally posted by wpgrexx
If I were to reinstall the BAC, would this eliminate this. Also without that coolant hose going to it, will it still work, or should I cap them off at the ends? I can't see it affecting it by having them open.
If I were to reinstall the BAC, would this eliminate this. Also without that coolant hose going to it, will it still work, or should I cap them off at the ends? I can't see it affecting it by having them open.
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